Dave, most commonly blueberries are installed with a lot of well mixed peatmoss which has a reputation for being acidifying but once it breaks down, not so much. After the installation an annual application of wood chips, preferably soft wood but whatever is available will insure a rich black soil over time (even if it's just on top). 2 or 3" is enough and at least 6 months of aging a plus. I was just reading the NAFEX list and another knowledgable grower stated the same about blueberries thriving in a relatively high pH.

Al, no matter, you and I do not see eye to eye on 'any and every' plant related issue. Since today's topic, I have researched several sites regarding overfertilized plants. Wikipedia and Google for starters. I've also read this topic via various house plant books, including names such as Hyponex that sell fertilizers. You would think, if anything, they'd be inclined to 'push' their product, inducing people to use fertilizers often and/or feed during winter months. On the contray, they advise discontinuing use on most plants, reducing strenght for others, during non-growing, dormant seasons. And plants do rest. You know as well as I, continuous use of fertilizer increases salt build up. Salt buildup can lead to root damage, causing symptoms such as reduced growth, brown leaf tips, dropping of lower leaves and wilting of plant. When the concentration of ferilizer in soil is too high, it is difficult for plants to absorb water and they will eventually decline. Overfertilizing also causes plants to grow quickly; this type of growth makes them vulnerable to insects and disease. Overfertilizing can also cause plant deficiencies. The object is, Use Fertilizer in Moderation. We also know, leaching soil resolves salt build-up, but most people do not bother leaching. I've worked in retail nurseries, and the majority wants easy-to-care-for-plants, that involves the least work. To some, watering is a major chore. I believe this is one reason artificial plants have reached an all time high. This includes Christmas Trees. Most people no longer want to bother with felled needles or adding water, so they buy man-made look-alikes. I do not know or understand the chemistry of soils and fertilizers. This I admit. But, considering I have been growing plants a good number of years, with, for the most part, excellent results, I feel I know enough to continue mixing soils, fertilizer, and whatever needs doing, including the use of Superthrive and misting. I am not saying your way is wrong. If your plants are growing to your satifaction, so be it. That's great, but you have to respect my opinions, my views, even if you don't share them. When I advise someone, my advice isn't something made up. I give advice from my own experiences, books and articles read, and listening to others' dilemmas, what went wrong in their cases. So, back to the Subject of this thread. No, I do not think it's a good idea to fertlize, morso, with chemical fertilizers with every drink. Especially in winter. For the sake of peace, when you disagree with something I've posted, please do not suggest, 'the above or other' poster is wrong. Just say you do not agree with me, then continue with your side and reason. Thank you, Toni

I never use fertilizer in the summer. During summer, root growth scales back and top growth slows. If you fertilize it, you can cause a flush of growth, but the roots stay small and you have to water a lot more. If you don't fertilize, the grass grows more slowly and doesn't need as much water. Do you have insects? If so, are they harmful? If you have harmful insects, you'll need to treat, but I think the insect treatments are harmful to worms, so I would only use them if you need to. If I were you, I'd fertilize once in the spring and twice in the fall, with the second time being after the grass has stopped growing, but while it is still green. I wouldn't use a weed and feed product at all. If you have weed problems, it's better to use a fertilizer, then go around and spot spray the weeds. The weed killer is more effective if it's used when the weeds are growing actively, so fertilizing first ensures they're growing vigorously when you spray them.

Your best time to overseed is the next 3 weeks. I wouldn't put out any lime now. Best bet is to have a soil test done to determine if you need it and if so, how much and which kind. Personally, I wouldn't drop any fertilizer now either. Wait until the new grass is up and it's been mowed a few times, probably late September. Otherwise, you're just going to be feeding any weeds that are already there helping them to compete with the new seedlings. Then towards the middle of November put out a dose of fast release nitrogen to help it get through the winter and green up sooner in the spring. When you do overseed, water the new seed 3 times per day very lightly. This means about 5 to 10 minutes depending on your sprinklers. If you do this you should start seeing germination in about a week. Continue this watering schedule for 2 to 3 weeks and gradually back off of the frequency and increase the amount of water each time.