I can't recall the source, but I ran into information not long ago indicating that root toners can actually be detrimental to helping new root growth form on cuttings. To be honest, I've rooted cuttings with and without using a rooting hormone powder or liquid, and I've not noticed a huge difference there, either. So, it appears to me as though the gardening industry is more interested in making a profit than in making good gardeners out of their customers. Just the soil offerings on the store shelves should show us that much. In today's world, most unfortunately, avarice has replaced ethical business practices and honesty. Any good marketing blitz can psych people into buying almost anything, whether they need it or not, whether it's a viable product or not. The gardening industry is not immune to this drive for the most profit. But, once a gardener spends the time to learn what's actually happening beneath the soil surface, and they learn what the basic requirements of the plant world are, they can easily wade through a garden center to find what they need... leaving behind all the brightly packaged items they don't need! And the internet, itself, can be a curious thing... for every article written, there's usually another written in opposition. And nothing on the internet is vetted, meaning anyone can write an article and post it, whether it's correct or not... through a blog, a forum, through their own website, or where ever they want, really... so locating the truth about some issues can be more difficult than we might think. We have to come prepared to dig deeply, using good old fashioned logical, cognitive thought, problem solving skills, and a good dose of common sense. We have to separate the facts from the fallacies, realizing that opinions are only opinions, and personal experience is only one piece of some puzzles. It helps to take what we read with a large grain of salt and tad bit of skepticism, too. One way to find out what's truth and what's fiction is to use a product for yourself... except, any advice you give will pertain to how you tested the item and also to your individual environment, which will differ from others. Another way to learn is to go directly to a trusted source. How does all this fit in with a conversation on transplant shock? Well, some people recommend Superthrive and similar products, while others don't seem to think they're worth the price tag... who's right and who's wrong? I think Al said it best, and Al is considered to be a trusted source... "Reduce 'transplant shock' by making the plant's new home as culturally favorable as possible and by making sure the plant's energy reserves are abundant when you transplant." If we follow this simple idea, we won't need any extras to ensure healthy plant growth.

Well, I stopped by Lowes on the way home and picked up a soil tester and tried to get some iron sulfate, but they didn't have anything. They of course had hollytone, but then they also had this: http://www.amazon.com/Espoma-GSUL6-Soil-Acidifier-6-Pound/dp/B0063ZDQ66/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1402443778&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=emposa+soil+acid which showed 30% sulfate. I understand it is slower release, but it was all I could lay my hands on in the next few weeks with work, travel with family, etc. I got home and used the soil tester on some tap water (town water) and it did come up at 6. I then followed the procedure and pulled a plug of dirt, mixed it into some mud and tested. It showed between 7-8 (see photo) as you all suspected. The bag said 2.5 cups per plant under the drip line. I put almost 3 under each. I'm concerned it isn't enough or will need a ton each year. Should I consider peat moss or pine needles as a top cover for the bed now and each year? Should I add more product? I'm concerned I could over do it with the product although the ph appears to be double what it should be Thanks again for the help.

If you have naturally alkaline soil, it would be a good idea to put about one pound of agricultural sulfur into the bottom of each hole, before planting the blueberry shrub. I prefer to mix either peat moss or composted tree leaves with our native soil, about 50/50 by volume, when planting blueberries. They should be watered in well, and watered once or twice a week through the fall. If your well water is alkaline, you will have pH issues, and the shrubs will likely fail to thrive. You might see pale green or yellow leaves next spring. If that happens, it is time to learn more about pH, how to measure soil pH, and how to measure water pH. There is help to be found on this forum.

Do you have leaf mulch or leaf mold? Leaf mulch is just shredded leaves that will, eventually, become leaf mold almost compost, but compost, properly made, will have more nutrients that leaf mold will. I use both compost and leaf mulch, the leaf mulch covers the compost I put down and both get digested by the soil bacteria and eventually contribute to the soil fertility.