Kimberlul, You can't delete a post (sure wish ya could, sometimes). You can link the two posts together by supplying a link to the other post at the bottom of one or both posts, if you think that would be of any help. In other words, you could say, "see other post" and then provide the link to that post. When you want to add pictures, just post them on an image hosting site and then embed them into the text here. Email me if you don't know how to do that, and I'll send you instructions (if you want). You need to check your soil's moisture level at about an inch or two deep (use your finger and stick it down into the dirt) to see if your plants need water until you get familiar with your soil and can predict water needs. Don't assume you are watering too much (although it sounds very possible). Pruning them is probably one of the worst things you could do for them. Imagine having one of your teeth pulled because you had an upset stomach. It wouldn't be the best way to attack the problem!

Those are awfully large plants to have come out of 5 gallon pots. I think you have an issue with how well (or poorly) your shrubs are rooting out into the soil volume surrounding the original soil-less media of the container. The roots were likely incredibly pot-bound, and unless you went to extreme measures to change this condition, then the shrub is mainly taking up moisture and nutrients only from that original container soil volume. That's a problem, and this condition can express itself as chlorotic (yellowish) foliage and meager new stem growth primarily because the plants are having difficulty absorbing enough moisture and nutrients from this limited soil volume. New roots need to colonize wider soil volumes so that more moisture and nutrients can be exploited. You can apply granular and/or liquid fertilizer to attempt to increase these plants' nutrient levels. You can probably "green them up" pretty easily, in the short term. Long term, I'd consider lifting the plants during the dormant season, loosen the root systems, and replant into a well-tilled garden bed. These viburnums will thank you. You may well have some insect pests present (scale, etc.) but those are most likely secondary pathogens. Take a sample of your plant (24-36" section of branch) to your local Cooperative Extension Service office for diagnostics. Post-script question: where do you garden? I am in central KY, zone 5b/6a. Viburnum carlesii are not great performers here in summer heat/humidity; they do much better in zone 5 and north. Viburnum x juddii and some of the other hybrid clones with V. carlesii as one parent do much better, with genetics bred into them from more southerly species of viburnum. Hot summers can lead to more foliar problems and increased insect pest activities, too, due to stressed plants.

Hi, I have a Viburnum carlcephalum that I just love. The Korean Spice is one if its parents so it has similar qualities, one being an amazing fragrance. I also have another Viburnum, 'Chicago Luster.' It is very pretty, but it doesn't have a fragrance. Your probably right about the maple keeping your shrub smaller. It still looks pretty though! Here's a pic of my V. carlcephalum from yesterday. Remy

4 nurseries that would certainly be worth calling are Triple Oaks in Franklinville, Rarefind in Jackson, Fairweather Gardens in Greenwich, and Popes near Ancora NJ. All knowledgeable people. I am familiar only with the Scientific name. If you mean V. carlesii 'Compactum', mine came from Rarefind about 6 years ago and I think they still stock them.