I'm starting a new bed at the back of my property and need some big hostas for the back row - the only real big hosta I have right now is Sum & Substance. I've always loved the look of Nigrascens and would love to add that to the garden, I have another spot for a large hosta and would love to find something variegated for that spot. I have the following Hosta listed below, also have daylilies, peonies, old roses, plenty of assorted nicer perennials for sun and shade. Please let me know what you are looking for. Thanks for looking! Jeanne My hosta list: Abby Allegan Fog Antioch* Baby Bunting Blue Cadet Bright Lights Cherish Crusader Dawn Decorata* Faithful Heart Fire & Ice Frances Williams Golden Tiara Gypsy Boa Halcyon Hapsburg Heron Honeybells Lakeside Black Satin Lemon Lime* Paul�s Glory Pixie Power Sagae Special Gift Stiletto Striptease Sum & Substance Sunpower Tambourine Tiny Tears Twist of Lime Undulata* *Arrived in garden as unknown and identified by me.

I want to make one comment, peripheral to this poster's question: Two summers ago, it was hot and dry here. Last summer, cool and dry. Even more than two years ago, we were in a rut of having storm systems during the growing season avoid this area. Many tree species and genera showed the ill effects of this protracted dry spell, but none more than spruce. Some died but nearly all showed thin foliage, etc. Along comes this year with record rains, especially in June and July (So far). And the turn-around in the visual quality of spruce is nothing short of amazing. This definitely includes pungens (Blue spruce). Also of interest, to me anyway, is that the endemic problem for blue spruce in our area-cytospora canker-which presents as a gradual death of branches, starting low on the tree and working up, has been notably less severe. This contradicts the usual notion that blue spruce thrives in dry conditions. I just don't see it. They look as good or better now than ever. FWIW, I do know that high humidity over a longish period of time IS implicated in the transmission of this fungal disease. But......I believe that is more than made up for by the trees' having good vigor due to constant adequate soil moisture. As such, I'd expect that the combination of lots of humidity, but dry soils to be the double whammy responsible for incidence of cytospora on spruce. Please note-I am not saying that the OP's tree is suffering from this malady. I've seen spruce exhibit this symptom also, but for the life of me, I haven't yet figured out what the culprit is. +oM

I got some nice different looking green ones from seedlings found in 2004. I also got 3 or 4 yellow which hosta forum friends named for me last winter for a fun thing to do on the forum. SonKen, with his thousands, doesn't have time for 'green'. I did and do! Since they are in your woods give then a year or two and see what developes. They really change a lot the third and fourth years of development.

Hi, I would treat the fungus first. The one fungicide that I regularly see available that specifically treats Southern Blight is Bayer Disease Control with Tebuconazole. This fungicide is a curative and a preventive treatment. There is no need to lift the plant, just saturate the crown and surrounding soil. You will likely want to spray the whole garden, then repeat next year. If you are moving the plants, I would recommend completely bare rooting them in place so that you don't move the fungus with them. Southern Blight is a soil borne fungus, so if you remove the soil you will remove most of the spores too. Take a garden hose with you and wash off the old soil right in place, then move the plant. Since your hostas are in the sun that can be part of the problem. If you water during the heat of the day, especially if you overhead water, this can create too much moisture at the surface during the hottest part of the day and cause the spores to become active. It is best to let the soil dry out completely when it is really hot, and avoid watering on those 90 to 95+ days. Wait until evening so the soil surface is dry by the next afternoon. But really, the fungicide I mentioned will get rid of this. Spray now and repeat again next summer before it gets hot. Treat again next summer if you see any again. There is absolutely no need to soak the plants because Southern Blight is a surface mold and it does NOT get into the crown or into the plants. And yes, after the stems fall off and after the mushy fungus is gone, most hostas will immediately start to regrow. Hope that helps! Chris