Anyone who has seen a sidewalk damaged by tree roots can easily extrapolate the problem to a home's foundation. Anyone who has seen a boulder cracked in two by a tree's roots can see the potential for problems. The statement on Morton Arboretum's website that, "Though small roots may penetrate existing cracks in foundations, they are incapable of causing mechanical damage through their growth" is so absurd that it would be laughable if the results weren't so serious. Most of us here know that the problem with tree roots and foundations, as well as the problem with tree roots and pipes, is often exaggerated and frequently misunderstood. But, saying that the problems don't exist is simply and clearly denying reality. Oversimplification and dismissal of all but "average" conditions doesn't help address this issue! A few quotes (and this could continue for pages and pages) from ISA papers/articles: "In fact, tree roots can cause severe damage to sewer or septic lines, storm water drains, water supply lines, building foundations,sidewalks, streets, parking lots, curbs, walls and swimming pools, and each year the repair of this damage is a major cost to cities." "A typical application of cutoff walls is to exclude roots from soils near the foundations of buildings. This is necessary because root moisture absorption causes soil shrinking and differential settling, which causes significant structural damage to foundations and walls." "...during dry weather, trees must extract more and more moisture from greater and greater soil volumes to keep their physiological processes functioning. This can contribute to the drying and cracking of clay soil and thus to (soil) subsidence with resultant foundation damage."

Hello Brenda, Just noticed your posting. I don't go to this forum often. Arisaema Dracontium has been on my wish list for a long time too. Now that it's Sept, do you still have any to swap? What are you wishing for in trade? Would you be interested in variegated solomons seal, dwarf solomon's seal (humile), minature hosta Baby Bunting, or anemone canadensis? I also have some young plants of digitalis lutea. Are any of those interesting? Suzinnia (Suzy)

I'm no expert but hated to see your inquiry sit for a week with no responses. :-) Without seeing a closer image, I'm guessing that is a Hibiscus syriacus 'Red Heart' (Rose of Sharon). They can be pruned in late fall, early spring. There are some sterile cultivars that don't produce seeds. You can get lots of good "starts" from the softwood cuttings when you prune. Here is a link that might be useful: pruning Hibiscus syriacus

My guess as to why it's happening is the 'tiny room' factor. The situation as described is actually a very good example of why color theory as many designers, artists, painters, color scientists, etc. like to espouse is not applicable to architecture. It's the factor of the third dimension that changes all the standard equations, theories, and explanations of how color 'works'. All the XY theories should be inclusive of Z but they aren't. Early on in this color adventure of mine I was shocked to learn how little study and experimentation has been dedicated to architectural color. Like... you could count on one hand the number of people who even acknowledged that architectural color theories should be similar in nature to yet different from widely accepted color theories. Not much has changed over the years. The appropriate vocabulary and theories still do not exist to help us as we attempt to describe and explain what it is we see and feel as we intentionally color our environs. The theories of color used for painting landscapes, for example, are of no use or help whatsoever when it comes to explaining the activity of light, color, and reflection in that tiny powder room. The dimensionality of the room is what is causing the color challenge. Therefore, the only way to arrive at a solution is to look at the dimensionality of color as well. The dimension of color that matters most when it comes to paint colors and inherent light is nuance. Nuance is LRV + Saturation. LRV is a shorthand way of referring to lightness/darkness and this part of color is separate from saturation. LRV is not the same as grayscale intensities. When you visually evaluate and cognitively consider both parts, LRV and saturation, at the same time you are considering and evaluating a paint color's nuance. Partner the right pitch of nuance with the volume of space and inherent light sources and you've cracked the magic code of choosing paint colors. The theories and tips and tricks that include color wheels, inspiration pieces, mood boards and whatnot are stupid. I know a lot of people believe in those methods. But just because a lot of people believe it, doesn't make it right and it certainly doesn't mean it's smart. First color solution I'd want to test out in that tiny powder room would be Pratt & Lambert's Nickle 25-25. And interestingly enough my inclination for that color as a solution is in alignment with what you were naturally sensing the room needed as well -- "something that has very obvious grey color tones to mute the vivid intensity?" Trust your gut. Hopefully my response is opinionated and color expert-y enough but not too much.