I'm in Cary, NC. I know a place east of Raleigh (30 miles approx) that sells all kinds of turf type grass seeds (midnight, star KBG, etc) to local golf courses in the area. I have an account with them, if you want I can sell you some seed? I don't know if the carry Fescue, but they sure have tons of Bluegrass and Perennial Ryegrass seeds. Either of them will complement your Fescue lawn very well. Let me know. And yeah, I agree with quirky, wait until late summer (mid August) to seed the areas. You can seed during the summer, but it requires ALOT more dedication to keep those seedlings alive. The NC Fairgrouns are comprised of a Perennial Ryegrass blend that they overseed year round with decent success. Go by when you can and take a look for yourself. Beautiful dark green, fine bladed turf, just not perfect because of the heavy use/traffic from weekly and daily customers.

there is normal winter bronzing on my GG... up here in the great white north .... i am presuming that is not what you are talking about.. a picture would sure help define such ... but.. with evergreens.. as the name implies.. they are always green .. and i swear.. even for a period after they are dead.. up here.. that can be nearly a year ... if yours definitely are showing a TOTAL dulling .. you can just tell they are 'off' .. then i would suggest they are not long for this world.. if not already dead ... and they may stay sickly looking.. until the heat returns next spring/summer.. when they will finally turn all brown ... if you are saying.. there is sporadic brown spots.. we need a picture ... check out the link ... only time will tell ... but presume the worst.. if in fact they are dead.. or near dead... then the manure will not do anything.. and in fact.. may hasten it all ... i appreciate your searching for old posts.. but this topic would have been better served in anew post.. with its own searchable title.. because it has to do with potential death. rather than this topic title.. of just planted... regardless.. post wherever it makes you happy ... good luck oh.. BTW... i would not go too large on replacements... large transplants can be very tricky to get going.. and a smaller one.. will get moving faster and easier.. and 'catch up' ... rather than struggle and linger for years ... in my world.. warped as it is.. a few off size plants.. lends an interesting variation on the group.. rather than requiring soldier like perfection .... ken here is a pic of mine.. which were 4 inch rooted sticks 11 years ago ... they dont grow quite as fast up here.. especially with 4 months of frozen ground Here is a link that might be useful: link

Update/Resolution: So I finally had time to run my W1986 and stand right by it until it drained. I ran it on the "Fine rinse" program. When it started draining, I pulled my drain hose out and stuck it in my laundry sink. The flow was little short of massive. Having seen it, I don't think it could drain any more any faster than it is. I don't think there's any way it could be said to be draining too slowly. I took mrjms' suggestion above, and someone there told me that the 190 degree cycle (where I first noticed the problem) has a built-in 17 minute delay that is not reflected in the estimated time when you start a 190 degree load. That would make sense to me because I noticed that the estimated time for a 190 degree load with the "Sensitive" option selected is estimated to take the same amount of time (54 minutes) as a 140 degree load with "Sensitive" selected. That always seemed odd to me because I know the washer has to heat the water 50 extra degrees to 190. How could it do that in the same time? I think that that explains the extra time taken. And I think there are two reasons I noticed this now: First, like I said, I've been using the washer a great deal more now since I am sitting pets. That's caused me to start worrying about wearing the washer out. Second, I almost never used to use the 190 degree cycle. It damaged most things. But now that I am pet sitting, I bought a very high-end (commercial grade) steam cleaner. It uses very plain 14" x 17" cotton terry cloth towels on the end of a floor attachment to clean floors. I have all tile floors, and Swiffers weren't cutting it when it came to cleaning up after the pets. The steam cleaner is fantastic, but I'm always washing those terry cloth towels (I use dozens to clean my whole house). Those towels are filthy after steam-cleaning the floors, so I'm washing them on the 190 degree cycle. And I also fill the washer compartment full with them. From what I've read, I think a very full load slows things down, too. I guess I should probably wash fewer at a time? Anyway, so now I'm thinking nothing is wrong with my W1986. I think the draining was going slowly when I happened to look because it was either near the end of the drain cycle, or because I had stuffed the washer too full with the cotton towels. (As a side note, and I don't know if this matters, I read the owner's manual this morning and noticed I skipped a step when I recently cleaned the washer's lint trap. The manual says: "After cleaning: Run the "Fine rinse" program. This step is necessary to activate the ball valve." I didn't do that, but I had run the washer dozens of times since then. Maybe somebody could tell me if that might have caused problems that lasted through dozens of washings?)

My guess is over 3 years I got about 6"-8" of height per year. That might speed up as the tress should now be well rooted. Apart from the narrow habit meaning that when a platoon of 'Smaragd' is deployed a lot of them have to be bought and planted it is actually a slow-growing choice. Otherwise, what dwarfs the tops of field grown trees and shrubs during transplanting is the involved cutting back of roots. Unless stock purchased is in quite poor condition when installed or stunted afterward by final planting site characteristics the normal (previous or nearly so) rate of top growth should be resumed following the first autumn after planting. Because 60% of the annual increase in length of existing roots of cold climate adapted woody plants occurs in autumn. With generation of new roots from cut root ends occurring when top growth starts in spring. So that with determinate growing items like pines for instance, where it is easy to see each year's increment of top growth a typical scenario with a recent planting is a long stem section dating from when the specimen was still growing in the fields of the production operation from which it came. Where particular methods were employed to push stock to size up as fast as possible, enabling more crops (and hence more income) to be gotten from each acre. Followed by a much shorter increment marking when digging for sale occurred. And then if enough time has elapsed since replanting an immediate return to significantly longer shoots being evident the very next growing season afterward. And not three years later, as is often stated.