there is a very active fruit forum .. and the fruits there.. do things very differently.. as compared to general gardeners if you want to take them to the next level.. find those experts ... and they will surely have your pollination answers.. if anyone can actually ID a cultivar by leaf alone ... which i doubt ... maybe by flower.. but you will have to wait until next spring for that ... i am not very sure.. about the siting of these plants in your scape... black cherry trees can go on 60 to 80 feet... and apple 20 to 40 .. in the decades to come.. yours appear to be planted a foot or two from your foundation .. one would hope.. that the prior owner was bright enough to plant dwarf varieties... and surely you wont ID that from leaves alone ... but maybe the fruit pees can answer that by annual growth rates ... and do keep in mind.. that a dwarf of an 80 foot tree.. might be a mere 40 feet tall in not all that many years ... dwarf does not mean tiny ... good luck ken

The problem is you didn't show the leaves. You should be able to find out what it is from the Garden anyway, botanical gardens are supposed to be telling people what they are displaying. They might have a place on their web site where you can make queries about the collections, or a phone number you can call for information about specific accessions. Looks like this one is prominently situated. What I have seen here with a more or less similar trunk is Cydonia oblonga.

I agree with #1 thru #3 #4 looks like Populus balsamifera (Balsam Poplar) to me. #5 I agree, Tilia americana #6 Most likely Pyrus calleryana - Callery Pear, which is known to many erroneously as "Bradford Pear" because that's the oldest, best selling cultivar. Agree with #7 and #8 #9 Eleagnus umbellata - Autumn Olive #6 and #9 are aggressive exotic invasives which you should consider trying to eradicate, not transplanting. Also, I'd say it's tempting to transplant wild growing trees and shrubs and it can be done with care, but more often than not it ends in failure. Many wild established trees and shrubs, even when still young, resent the root disturbance and don't adjust well and end up dying or taking several years to recover. Some species are exceptions though and it doesn't always end that way, but like I said often times it does. Out of the trees and shrubs you listed, I'd think the smaller Blueberries have the best chance at being transplanted and would behave the best in the landscape.

Hi. I have Cashmere Bouquet saplings and perennial Sunflower saplings to trade for Alabama native fruit trees: Common Persimmon, Carolina Laurel Cherry, Flatwoods Plum and Red Mulberry. I'm trying to build a bird friendly backyard and would love to have these trees back there. Thanks in advance.