I could be mistaken, but I think black locust (like Honey locust) depends on birds and squirrels to distribute the seeds. As the seeds pass through the digestive system the hard coating is broken down, allowing germination. I suppose birds could sit in the trees and poop the seeds after eating them, but you may also find seedings far away from the trees you plant.

I am looking for Native Maryland plants. moss phlox, and foam flower, I have to trade - a few black locust trees, elderberry, green & gold, and ginger, I also have wild geranium, purple violets.

(I know its an old thread, but the following info could be useful to someone doing a search) I just started a whole bunch of black locust seeds. I collected them last fall, and stuck them in my freezer. In April I used a sharp razor to cut open the pods. I only kept the biggest, healthiest looking seeds from the biggest pods. I nicked/shaved a small piece of the OUTER seed casing (do not cut the green inner seed), then submerged them in warm water overnight (12 hours). They should swell up a bit, I think you could keep them submerged for longer, probably 24 hours, if they haven't swelled, you should wait longer (maybe remove the ones that swelled and leave the others). Then I wrapped them in a wet paper towel, kept wet by placing one end in a small jar of water to wick up to the rest of the paper towel (seeds NOT under water). Most of the seeds germinated after just 2 days. I planted the ones that germinated and they are growing well right now. Note that this technique works well for most seeds with a hard outer shell including many tree seeds. Often when directions say to be patient, germination can take 3-4 weeks, you can use this method to get germination in 3 days (I've done it with strawberries for example and slow to germinate tree seeds).

Hello Cottonland, As Ladyslppr mentioned, nature doesn't like a vacuum. When you remove a plant community, she will quickly fill the space again unless you fill it first. "The race is on." Regardless of the plants currently growing, the community you are looking at changing is edge habitat, which has its own unique mode of operation. ItÂs a plant community that has a transitional function in nature, as such, it is always changing and progressing. As the current edge matures and subsequently shades out lower growing competitors, new edge will have been in the process of being built. In simple terms, the "edge" keeps on growing toward the center of what ever opening is allowing sunlight to come through until it has all been converted to woodland. All throughout this process, what was edge, as it ages, will be transitioning toward more shade tolerant species of trees and shrubs. Locust, both black (Robinia) and honey (Gleditsia), both have nasty colonizing habits. If you leave mature trees, you will have to deal with copious seedlings sprouting at the "newly created" edge that their canopies will create. Especially if you are actively cultivating or mulching the edge spaces. When you cut either type of locust, one of two things can happen. Either A, vigorous root sprouts will emerge or B, copious numbers of seedlings will emerge due to the lack of suppression from the parent tree (both take place in some cases). IÂm going through this currently, as the "tractor killer" honey locust along the roadside was removed last fall. I painted the freshly cut trunk with concentrated roundup to stop resprouting but I have to go out at least once a week to pull newly sprouted seedlings that are coming up over a 300 square foot area. DonÂt be discouraged! Edge conversion can be done, it just takes persistence and also as Ladyslppr said, youÂll have to choose suitable replacement plants to create "your" new edge. WeÂre going through this process, which started three years ago on our 13 acre homestead. We left some of the brambles in areas where they worked for us. New seedlings, brought in by whatever wildlife consume their berries, require pulling every fall to keep them from establishing new colonies. IÂve elected to plant highly competitive plants that benefit us and wildlife and that we enjoy looking at. Elderberry, gooseberry, blackcap raspberry, poke weed, mountain ash, dogwood, seviceberry, redbud and a host of others. Locust and wild (exotic) roses are the main pest species we have to keep on top of. We have also encouraged the native prairie type forbes and grasses to grow in many portions, which has proven very beneficial to quail and rabbits amongst others. Getting rid of the brambles, wild roses and locust depends on the level of colonization, time of year and the plants growing directly near them. For younger plants and small groups, I usually choose to just dig them prior to fruit set so I donÂt have to be concerned with more seedlings later. In areas where spraying herbicides wonÂt injury other plants we want to keep, we do so just prior to fruit set. For plants large enough, when accessible we cut them down then paint the fresh wound(s) with concentrated herbicide. WeÂve found that the initial clearing work is actually less time and energy consuming than what takes place in following years. Keeping up with mother natureÂs rate of "replanting" is the real chore. One thing that has helped immensely is that we plant an annual cover-crop on the larger areas that we couldnÂt get back to right away. The cover-crops grow fast enough to shade out the newly cleared areas so that dormant seeds donÂt have time to sprout and establish. That gives us plenty of time to come back later and replant the area with what we want growing. Regards, Dan