That sure is a beautiful bloom, but I agree with Bill!!! So many people ( FB ) asking for identifications of blooms from a picture. True varieties can change due to heat , humidity and other environmental changes.. So to look at one variety , it could look like three different faces! Your blooms are gorgeous and I would label it as "noid nursery cutting '13" or something that will remind you as to where it came from. Our true varieties are getting mixed up with so many other Id's and if we as plumeria lovers, we need to help keep them true to the named variety. If we know it comes from a named cutting, that should be when it's labeled as such!! Keep up the good work!! You are doing a great job! The other tree looks like it had some dark veining on the leaves and that's always good to see!! ;-) Have a great day and thanks for sharing!!! Laura

Oh no, don't worry, this happens sometimes and it's totally fixable! First, seal those flowers up in a plastic bag and pop them in the freezer for at least 72 hours. This will stop those little critters in their tracks. Then, give the lavender a gentle shake over a trash can to let any bits fall out. To keep future bugs away, always store your dried lavender flowers in a sealed container in a cool, dry spot. Happy crafting

Any time you have dead tissue on a living plant, fungal organisms will be a part of the breakdown of that tissue, but in this case the cause of the damage doesn't appear to be fungal. It looks like it's the result of something cultural. The 3 things that would be suspects are: over-watering, high EC/TDS levels, or nutritional toxicity or deficiency. I would start using a wooden dowel rod that's been sharpened in a pencil sharpener and stuck deep into the pot to test the soils moisture level. If the tip is stained dark (from moisture in the soil or feels wet, withhold water until the soil is almost completely dry. Then, flush the soil when you water so at least 15-20% of the total volume of water applied exits the drain hole. Tipping the pot after you water can make a big difference in how much water the soil can hold, so I'd adopt that practice as well. Figure B is figure A after it's been tipped. Note how much excess water it forces from the pot.A high EC/TDS (Electrical Conductivity and Total Dissolved Solids) means the soil solution has more dissolved solids (mainly mineral salts) in it than is good for the plant. Too much salt makes it difficult to take up water and the nutrients dissolved in that water. Flushing the soil when you water should render that potentiality to nonissue status. The fertilizer you are using means you must significantly over-supply the amount of P your plant is getting in order to supply it with the N it needs. Plants normally use about 6X as much N as P, and your fertilizer supplies about 7X as much P as your plant can/will use in relation to N. The problems associated with excess P in the soil solution are several. Excesses of P can raise pH, it unnecessarily raises the EC/TDS of the soil solution, and it can cause antagonistic deficiencies of several nutrients, mainly iron, copper, and zinc. An antagonistic deficiency occurs when there is so much of 1 nutrient in the soil solution it affects the plant's ability to take up other nutrients. I prefer to use Foliage-Pro 9-3-6 for almost all my plants for a variety of reasons. If you're interested in what the reasons are, I'll share the reasons. Al

Wait until all chance of other frosts have past, then go ahead. This happens sometimes early in the season at my nursery - containerized plants seem to be far more susceptible to cold damage than do planted ones - and any damage is pruned off. FWIW, this forum tends to be very slow and not often visited. You will likely get better and more responses if you post in whatever plant-appropriate forum seems applicable. In this case, Shrubs :-))