plus add a year or two after you plant a tree to let the roots get established (before you grow fruit). IMO this is very important. I tried your way ONCE and I failed, not saying you will, but Ive had better experience with seedlings IMOO. This is on fruit trees, where you want the fruit right now. Bought two apple trees about 5 ft high at 40 bucks a piece with small apples on them. They both got borers and other nasty diseases. one completely died and the other one is hanging on for dear life all scared up from me digging out the borers. I planted a seedling apple tree last year and it is looking superb. One more important thing to remember is that you buy fruits trees suitable to your area. good luck

"and (why) does where I live or type of soil have to do with advising me NOT to do something?" Location (especially in regards to climate) and soil type are two KEY factors in just about any horticultural endeavor. Climate should be considered in determining the best time to move the tree. It may also influence the likelihood of success in moving the tree. Soil type is absolutely critical. It will have a big influence on how large the rootball, or remaining root structure, should be. Root systems develop very differently in fast-draining soil compared to slower-draining soils. The type of soil will also impact the weight of the rootball and how easily the rootball can be moved without damage (if that method is desired). re Ken's comment regarding difficulty versus size Ken was looking at this from a "homeowner" perspective. Not everything that can be done should be done, and not everyone would be capable of moving a tree this size by themselves. If you are determined to do it, it is do-able. BUT, be prepared for a good deal of work. It's not a task for just anyone. "WTF" Ken is not a "noob". He may oversimplify things at times, or come across a little differently than the "average" poster, but discounting his input would often be a mistake only a noob would make. Patients, careful consideration, and civilized discourse are usually valuable resources here on GardenWeb.

super.. you win... 8 out of ten isnt bad .... with 30 years of experience... i would be very happy with that rate ... and ... well.. they are oak ... they will look like this for another year or two .. and then.. slowly.. start taking off ... you might want to figure out.. how to protect them in snow cover... i was always afraid of stepping on them .... perhaps a nice stake of some kind... simply put on say.. the north side.. so when you walk by.. you know where the tree is supposed to be... not that you need to tie it to the stake of anything.. just a location marker ... ALL the important growth.. is underground .... and until it grows a root mass.. you arent going to see much above ... growing trees.. has little to do with instant gratification .. lol.;. perhaps the understatement of the year... lol water deep into fall ... insuring a nice moist soil ... too many peeps put away the hose at the first frost in mid oct.. and then ignore them until ground freeze in jan .... they wont need a lot of water in nov... just make sure it isnt drought... with cold days.. and colder nights.. moisture is not going to be sucked out... so you wont need a lot ... and dont freeze them into an ice cube ... congrats and good luck ken

I have had good luck bare rooting metasequoia that were pot bound or grown together. Not sure if other species are more sensitive to that type of things.