Can I safely transplant a 7ft oak sapling?
chester_grant
12 years ago
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hortster
12 years agoj0nd03
12 years agoRelated Discussions
ordinary oak sapling?
Comments (9)there might be some tree peeps that can WAG .. in the tree forum.. whom i have never seen here but they will preface their guess by saying immature oaks.. do not have true leaves... and that is why they will guess ... if you want to ID the monster.. a pic of a leaf.. the bark.. and whole.. will probably get you an ID there... and that will put you in the ballpark with this one.. subject to who fertilized the nut ... and i think the pollen is wind borne.. so it could be any oak for miles around.. but will defer on that ... if you have any inclination to save it.. find the proper planting time wherever you are.. dig it out.. bare root.. and reduce to one leader ... in my z5 MI.. this would be april .. while fully dormant.. 6 to 8 weeks before it is supposed to leaf out.. what i call.. root growing time ... ken...See Morere potting oak sapling
Comments (6)In my opion you need to have it planted in at least a 5 gallon bucket with good drainage hole cut out of the bottom. Set the potted tree under a dappled shade canopy of a mature tree or other such equal type of dappled shade light. Then keep the tree in that 5 gallon pot until just prior to its leaf buds swell next February. At that time take the tree out to the woods and plant it in a sunny location or clearing between the other trees. If it is a park where you plant it, install a bark protector around the trunk, and metal landscape edging or a circle of rocks around the tree at a distance of about a two feet away from the tree. Remove all grass and weeds within the edging, and add a 2 inch depth of mulch, but make sure to pull any mulch away from the trunk for a distance of at least 4 inches. By your doing all this, the city mowers may avoid mowing it down without realizing that it is a quality tree. If the city does not provide supplimental watering for the vegetation in the park; then you will need to, at least once a week and every few days if the weather is extremely hot and dry, take a 5 gallon bucket of water out to the tree; along with an empty five gallon bucket with a few small holes in the bottom. Set the empty bucket near or just lightly uphill from the tree. use a smaller pitcher to scoop out the water and pour it into the emply bucket with the small holes in the bottom. Wait until all the water slowly waters the tree, before you remove the your watering bucket for reuse next time. Continue the supplimental watering until the fall rains begin to occur. Then wait until the following spring or summer to check to see if the tree needs your help with extra watering any more. Most likely by then the tree will only need once a week watering in the driest parts of that year. Any years after that the tree should have enough root development to survive without you providing it with extra water....See Moretransplanting volunteer red oak
Comments (7)Well, I'm tap rooted, check it an see, I've got roots down to 100 and 3' Come on baby, can you do more than dig? I'm tap rooted, tap rooted Now that our musical interlude is over ... when I dig out something like that, I try to get as much as possible of the tap root, but often it isn't possible to get a significant portion of it. You just have to do the best you can, and at some point cut it off cleanly -- DON'T hack at it with the shovel, which can end up with it being a big, frayed mess. And, I DO believe that a wounded tap root should have the wound dipped into a fungicide like Captan or even Rootone F before replanting -- I think that does help survival....See MoreTransplanting oak saplings?
Comments (5)below is a pic of a 6 foot cherry .... after digging maybe 8 foot .... i dont go much bigger than 6 ... risk increases exponentially ... first sharpen shovel ... and get pruning shears .... start with one tree ... see what you are getting yourself into ... go to new house.. dig hole .... for one inch caliper ... maybe 3 feet across .... and 2 feet deep .... go to old house.. start digging about 3 feet from the trunk ... twice around... straight down ... overlap so you truncate the entire circle .... second time around .... pull back the shovel.. loosening soil ... then grab the tree.. and see where it is still holding .... and get to work .... move another foot further out .... start digging out the soil .... trying to maintain as many roots as possible.. continue until you get it out of the ground .... wrap the roots in a damp towel ... or something to protect them from drying out ... drive to the new house ... compare roots to hole ... adjust accordingly .... snip the root ends... nice clean cuts .... insert tree into hole.. and adjust for proper height.. root flare at ground level .... start refilling... when half back filled... water well and tamp down ... fill to near full ... water again ... mulch well ... in my sand.. i tend to leave a moat of sorts ... a ring out 2 to 3 feet from the tree ... so i can lay down a lot of water.. and allow it to soak in ... you are responsible for all water next season.. and into the following .... if you dig out a 8 footer.. with a three foot root mass.. DO YOU HAVE A VEHICLE TO MOVE AN 11 FOOT TREE ... bigger is NOT necessarily better ... dig new holes whenever .... have water available ... plan on digging as soon as the leaves turn color or fall off ... no amendments.. no fertilizer.. just insure PROPER watering for 2 to 3 years .... good luck ken...See Morebrandon7 TN_zone7
12 years agoken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
12 years agohortster
12 years agobrandon7 TN_zone7
12 years agolucky_p
12 years agobrandon7 TN_zone7
12 years agoken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
12 years agobrandon7 TN_zone7
12 years agoEmbothrium
12 years agoBarbara Danley
8 years agoken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
8 years agoBarbara Danley
8 years agoviper114
8 years agosam_md
8 years agobrandon7 TN_zone7
8 years agoBarbara Danley
8 years agobrandon7 TN_zone7
8 years agowisconsitom
8 years ago
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