Hi all, I am very much looking for the Pink American smoke bush, I have the purple one, but my Aunt wanted the American pink one, that what she had mentioned and I got it wrong, I am surpriseing her with planting for her next year, as i listened to her say what she used to have I heard it wrong, I have never grown these. If any one could help me get a few-thank you- Lisa

Yup. they're pretty, but very, very invasive in some areas.

hog.. i would relate your failure to the quality of stock usually sent from arbor day ... OP.. see link about planting in clay.. you should plant high ... to allow a new plant.. time to put its roots where it can cope with whatever is thrown at it ... and that link should discuss why we USUALLY do not amend a planting hole .... this is a nearly indestructible plant ... and i dont understand why a little temporary water would make a difference ... something is missing from the facts presented ... have you ever done a perk test in this area ... how fast will water drain in the wet season??? .. and when is the wet season.. and how does that relate to cold/frost/freeze issues???? [could it be a cold issue instead of a wet issue??]... mine leafs out so late in MI.. that frost/freeze is not an issue.. but if yours is out early.. etc ... and what zone are you.. i dont think NC is z10???? ken Here is a link that might be useful: link

I suggested the Clematis for the spot because I wasn't sure a climbing rose would work there. I am imagining that a rose vigorous enough to grow into the cedars would also want to get wide and massive, and keeping it attached to the cedar may get annoying. Clematis montana cultivars do get big, but their stems are thin and light, and will climb on their own into the cedars once they reach the lower branches. If you want later color that isn't dark, consider Clematis virginiana or Clematis flammula (both are fragrant white Autumn-blooming clematis) or the pink-edged white 'Rubromarginata' hybrid (also very fragrant). Brushwood Nursery is a great place to order clematis (and other climbers). Copy and paste the links below to see: Clematis montana cultivars http://www.gardenvines.com/shop/search/results.html?search_in_description=1&ignore_special_flag=1&keyword=montana&inc_subcat=0&page=1&sort=3a Clematis flammula http://www.gardenvines.com/shop/small-flowered-clematis-4/clematis-flammula-89.html Clematis 'Rubromarginata' http://www.gardenvines.com/shop/small-flowered-clematis-4/clematis-triternata-rubromarginata-218.html Clematis virginiana http://www.gardenvines.com/shop/small-flowered-clematis-4/clematis-virginiana-227.html And then, of course, google their names to see more pics and info. To break down the clematis "groups" simply, Type 1 are large plants with small flowers, and bloom in late Spring, a little earlier than most of the once-blooming roses. They bloom on old wood, so if you need to prune, you do it right after they flower, giving them time to grow more wood to be hardened over winter and bloom the following Spring. These include the montanas and Clematis armandii (both are fragrant), as well as some others. Type 2 are medium-sized climbers, usually with large flowers. They bloom on old and new wood, and usually twice -- once in late Spring to early Summer (usually just after the Type 1) on old wood, then they pause during the peak of Summer, and bloom again in August/September on new wood. Most don't need much pruning at all besides tidying up in the Spring. Type 3 includes the non-climbing herbaceous clematis, large-flowered Summer-blooming clematis like 'Jackmanii', the small-flowered Summer-blooming species and close hybrids, and the small-flowered Autumn-blooming species and close hybrids (the latter are often fragrant). Those that bloom in Summer usually start just as the Type 2 finish their fist bloom, while the Autumn-blooming ones usually bloom when the Type 2 are finishing their second bloom. Type 3 blooms only on new wood, and so are typically pruned harshly to keep them from getting bare at the base. The general rule of thumb is to find the lowest set of healthy leaf buds, and prune to just above them in the Spring. This might be only 12" from the ground. Of course, you could leave them unpruned higher up if they're trained into trees. In that case, I'd just snip them right above where they first reach into the branches, and only worry about pulling out last year's growth if it looks obvious and messy. :-) ~Christopher