I'm certainly aware of the cultivar v. species debate in certain native plant enthusiast circles. I, personally, have a mix of both and use species when I can. That being said, it is not so much that cultivars lose their appeal/value to wildlife that is the issue. Frankly, IMO, that just isn't a significant issue in this debate. The issue that IMO is valid has to do with the biodiversity of the plant itself. There is, as you both know, a great deal of variation among different plants of the same species. Preserving that diversity in a species is what may be at risk in over-relying on cultivars. By no means am I saying that cultivars should always be used or that there is no reason to use the "unimproved" species. I'm just saying that judicious use of cultivars easily accommodates an interest in incorporating native plants in a more formal design. Yes, yes, I'm a native plant enthusiast who prefers species. But, I certainly don't snort at cultivars and still think using cultivars of some of our fine native plants is preferable to not incorporating natives at all -- or, even worse, to using exotic invasives.

I could buy bigger plants but I have an acre to do that has nothing on it, or nothing I want, plus retaining walls to build. I'm going broke! My demanding birds will just have to remain unimpressed. I am trying specifically to create a wildlife corridor. It's about 25'x 180', filtered sun with little direct sun. Still, the filtered sun is a decent amount. Wooded with mixed hardwoods, pine. The soil is good, acid side but that's good for what I want. The canopy is good, but I pulled miles of honeysuckle out of it so expect it to grow. The honeysuckle killed the middle layer and forest floor so it needs rebuilding. It's not dry but not moist enough for anise. It may dry out more since again, the vines totally blocked the sun. I intend to plant mahonia (NOT NOT NOT bealei!) in the deeper shade, a couple southern wax myrtles in the sunnier spots and several deciduous berry happy viburnums. What I lack is evergreen. Summer with all the viburnum will be fine but in winter I only have two spots of evergreens. There is no wildlife coverage on this property. I am not a native purist but I am a non invasive purist. I need that perfect, instant growing, shade loving, dense shrub that's non-invasive to boot. I don't ask much. If all else fails I will use Cleyera japonica (Ternstroemia) which as far as I can see has no invasive status. Grew it before (inherited) with no problems and something was always nesting in it. Maybe leatherleaf viburnum but I am not good with leatherleaf - ordered Dirrs book for help. If you have any alternative thoughts I'd be happy to hear them. I have planted two yaupons and a few other hollies, but in a sunnier spot. Love hollies. Common I know but dang, they are perfect. No suckers, grows anywhere, needs no pruning and is a wildlife bonanza. Let native hollies be common I say! Pick them over bradford pears any day for mass subdivision, office park plantings.

Nice place! Talk to as many "nurserymen" as you can on this along with studying whatÂs posted here. My concern about your situation is a desire for a multi-tasker. You might end up making so many compromises to get that one plant that will do both, it wonÂt do both to your satisfaction. Look at all the options for a good muti-tasker. Then look at the options for a good screen planting. Then look at the options for a security shrub. Make a decision based on what really important to you and what will fit that role. This may be oversimplified but if you want security, get a dog. I would much prefer a good screen tree like Cupressocyparis leylandii or Leyland Cypress. Craig Evans, our local extension agent, writes this about L. C. Use: Ornamental and screen Mature width: 15-25Â Hardiness Zone: 6-10 General Shape: Open pyramidal form Mature Height: 30-60Â Growth Rate: Rapid Needles: Scale-like, most common cultivar is rich green Cultural Notes: Full-sun, prefers better soils although tolerant of poorer sites with drainage; extremes in ph and salty sites; purchase as a 1-5 gallon container rather than B & B. Pests; No major; tip-burn in the winter with extreme changes, gets a few bagworms Best Traits; incredible growth rate; dense foliage; beautiful form; good color year-round Negative features; tip-burn, but this is easily removed by hand while wearing a pair of leather gloves randy Here is a link that might be useful:

Courtney, I have grown crossvine on a chain link fence, at our home in Fort Worth in the 1980s/1990s, and I have grown it here in Oklahoma on an arbor since 1999. I have never seen it sprawl on the ground as a ground cover, but it is my understanding that it is often used that way. It will make a pretty dense cover of foliage over time, but I think that if it and the shasta daisies/coneflowers were all planted at the same time (or if the daisies/coneflowers precede it), the crossvine shouldn't overwhelm them and choke them out. Another excellent native type of groundcover is Virginia Creeper. It creeps on the grounds in our woodland areas and doesn't seem to climb up into the trees too much (perhaps because the poison ivy and greenbriar have already climbed all the available trees! lol). On the east side of our house, it is climbing the wall of the 2 story house and has just about reached the roof. It has taken it several years to climb that high though. As a bonus, it attracts some kind of butterfly or moth. I don't remember which one, but I bet Susan knows. I have 'Tangerine Beauty' crossvine on an arbor with 'Flava' trumpet creeper and it is a true hummingbird magnet. I think crossvine would make a beautiful ground cover, and it is semi-evergreen so you'd still have some leaves on it for most of the winter. One of the great things about American Crossvine is that it is one of the primary flowering vines that hummingbirds rely on when migrating. So, in the springtime, when the American Crossvine and the Trumpet Creeper start blooming, the hummers are right behind them. Dawn