Has Anyone Successfully Transplanted Sasafrass?
17 years ago
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Comments (19)
- 17 years ago
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Comments (9)I started tomatoes this summer for the fall. I started them inside on June 5th and set most of them out around July 18th. The plants that I have are: Mexico; Peron Sprayless; Boondocks; Black Plum; and Arkansas Traveler. The Mexico, Boondocks, and Black Plum are doing great and have plenty of flowers on them (though there are no maters yet). The Peron Sprayless and Arkansas Traveler are not growing...it is like they are stunted. They are all in containers. The Mexico and Boondocks are in EarthBoxes and the others are in regular flower pots. I have never done this before, and didn't know if it would be better to plant the seed directly into the ground or to start indoors, so I just took a chance and did the indoor thing. There were several cells of the seed starter tray that did not germinate and when I had planted all of the ones that did, I dumped the seed starter in the compost pile...now I have 3 more tomato plants growing there. It will be interesting to see if they amount to anything!...See Moretransplanting sasafrass
Comments (13)My point exactly, Sam; it's virtually impossible to dig a seedling of any size without losing some root mass. I wasn't attacking Eric's post, just trying to debunk the myth I see put forward frequently that "if you cut the taproot, the tree will die". More and more commercial nurseries are root-pruning/undercutting their taprooted species during the first or second growing season, in order to promote development of a more lateralized root system, which translates into a higher transplant survival rate. I've dug and transplanted thousands of strongly-taprooted seedlings - pecans, walnuts, hickories, oaks - and sometimes these have been 3, 4, 5-yr old seedlings, frequently taller than myself. I certainly try to preserve as much taproot as is possible, but occasionally, due to close spacing in the seedling beds and unexpected root orientations, these trees come out with less than 1 ft of intact taproot. Most survive quite nicely, in spite of it. Again, season of digging/transplanting may have a significant impact. For example, another 'taprooted' species, the pawpaw, is very different from most other North American deciduous tree species, in that it carries out virtually no root growth during the dormant period - once it goes dormant, every part of the plant is dormant; so...when digging and transplanting pawpaw seedlings, the best time to do so is in spring, just as they're breaking dormancy, or in late summer, before they begin the descent into fall dormancy....See MoreHas anyone successfully grown apricots in zone 3?
Comments (20)Nice looking plant Konrad. Sorry it died. I have a Prunus armeniaca var. mandshurica seedling from fruit collected at Olds College in Olds Alberta in 1980 or 81. I started out with 5 or 6 plants but ended up with one survivor. That tree is now about 12 ft tall and partially healthy as it is in a very tough growing area. We have had one batch of fruit enough for jam once. The problem is 3 fold. Early bloom is always an issue since the blossoms can get frozen so easily. The second issue for me is no pollinator nearby. I have an acquaintance in Saskatoon who has a relatively young tree which has given fruit but she has the same problem and we intended to trade blooming branches last spring but did not get it done. I would like to graft from her tree onto mine with one branch and see how that might help. The fruit was of good flavour especially for jam. A little tart and quite unlike the commercials. If you can provide somewhat of a micro climate any of the ones out of the more Northern Nurseries should work. They do take time to get to producing age and you should have 2 for best fruit set. I suspect some kind of early insect control would help as they are so early but the bugs are still there!...See MoreAnyone successfully combined burrito and terrarium method?
Comments (3)The gentleman who first brought this to the attention of the person I heard it from has filled in the origin information. A commercial nurseryman in Australia wraps his Fortuniana root stocks to callus them. He removes them from the wraps after they've callused and BEFORE they form roots. He bundles them together at the callus stage to take them to the fields where they are pushed in to the ground. The callus tissue is fairly hard and durable. If there are roots they are easily damaged. The calluses form roots in the fields where they continue developing until budded. If you've gotten callus by the two week period, I would plant them. The longer you leave them in the dark, the more stored nutrients they will use without being able to replace them. By planting them deeply in the pots or cups so the majority of the stems are buried in damp, dark, cool soil with the remainder in the light, the green tissue of the stems will begin creating chlorophyll to feed the cutting. As long as conditions are within tolerance, they should keep right on developing and forming roots in the soil. That's my suggestion and what I've found works best here so far. It's what I posted on the March 9, March Wrapping Update on my blog about wrapping cuttings. Good luck! Kim Here is a link that might be useful: March Wrapping Update...See More- 17 years ago
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