Has Anyone Successfully Transplanted Sasafrass?
19 years ago
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- 19 years ago
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Has anyone ever transplanted carrot seedlings?
Comments (15)Hey veggiefaery, If it is getting hard,there is not enough organic fluff (leaf and grass compost),if it is hard,I am assuming clay ???? If clay,add Decomposed granite (lots) and Pumice again.... lots, and then tons of compost... Your clay is wonderful, but you have to teach it to behave.... a Treatise on Decomposed Granite: Decomposed granite is a rock powder and is an excellent amendment for clay soils. All rock powders are great sources of minerals and micronutrients. All growing soils need them. As the microbes and macrobes like earthworms, digest the insoluble minerals, they break down into the various soluble micronutrients that all forms of plants need. For example, limestone rocks are rich in calcium. Granite rocks are rich in potassium, etc. Seaweeds of course are the king of micronutrient fertilizers and soil amendments. There can be up to 70+ trace elements in seaweed. In locations where seaweed is not readily available; rock powders is one answer to the problem. Research continues to reveal that insoluble tiny particles like rock powder minerals, can be easily digested or absorbed via microbial activity, over time, into the anatomy of growing plants, thriving in the presence of rich organic compost, and other forms of powerful biostimulants like aerobic compost teas. Obviously a heavy clay soil is very difficult to initially dig, whereas a sandy loam is much easier. Heavy clay soils can be improved considerably by adding a lot of sawdust and mason's sand. DO NOT use beach or river sand! Mason's sand, being crushed granite, has sharp edges and actually loosens the soil. One of the least understood aspects of gardening is that of capillary action of the garden soil. It is a proven fact that compressed earth has a better capillary action than undisturbed soil. That is why gardening books tell you never to walk between rows in a regular garden, as that encourages weed growth. And of course people are told never to step in a French Intensive bed and thus compress the soil. But the capillary action is absolutely necessary to bring water up to the roots of growing plants to promote good and deep root growth. In regular garden rows, it is easy to roll a heavy 2 or 3 inch wide weighted wheel (mounted on an axle and handle) down the row directly over the freshly planted seeds, which will then promote deep root growth along that line. The spaces between the rows are than rototilled to eliminate footprints prior to the initial watering. The basic concept of French Intensive gardening is that raised beds are created which have humus added, and the whole bed is light and fluffy to a depth of two feet to promote fantastic root growth. The beds are typically 4 feet wide and 12 or more feet long, with 3 foot paths between the beds....See MoreHas anyone successfully grown apricots in zone 3?
Comments (20)Nice looking plant Konrad. Sorry it died. I have a Prunus armeniaca var. mandshurica seedling from fruit collected at Olds College in Olds Alberta in 1980 or 81. I started out with 5 or 6 plants but ended up with one survivor. That tree is now about 12 ft tall and partially healthy as it is in a very tough growing area. We have had one batch of fruit enough for jam once. The problem is 3 fold. Early bloom is always an issue since the blossoms can get frozen so easily. The second issue for me is no pollinator nearby. I have an acquaintance in Saskatoon who has a relatively young tree which has given fruit but she has the same problem and we intended to trade blooming branches last spring but did not get it done. I would like to graft from her tree onto mine with one branch and see how that might help. The fruit was of good flavour especially for jam. A little tart and quite unlike the commercials. If you can provide somewhat of a micro climate any of the ones out of the more Northern Nurseries should work. They do take time to get to producing age and you should have 2 for best fruit set. I suspect some kind of early insect control would help as they are so early but the bugs are still there!...See MoreHas Anyone??
Comments (10)Yes - that's just how crazy I am. They actually are still pretty small (2 or 3 gallon pots), so realtively easy. I've moved them out the shaded front porch now and they are very cute! I'll bring them back in if it cold. Worse to move are 2 rosemaries that have gotten HUGE. They used to go in the mudroom, but they are too big for there so they spent the winter under lights in the basement. They did OK but started growing in Feb. and all that foliage is to tender to make it outside, so I'll sheer them back and they'll have to start again. The Sum & Substance hosta did't make it - but I'll try again! This year I also thought I'd try some Ice Dance sedge in a permanent pot. It looks so good late in the season, even in November and December. Ted...See MoreAnyone have luck transplanting Russian sage suckers?
Comments (9)You should definitely shade the plant until it gets established - a week or so with an umbrella should do the trick. Very few plants can take full sun right after having their roots disturbed. I get a lot of seedlings, but have not had my perovskia sucker, ever. Also, I think the idea of cutting back the tops to take stress off the root system has largely been abandoned, at least for shrubs (and perovskia is a subshrub). I once had to transplant some mature shrubs in mid-summer, and had great results by following explicit directions provided on the shrubs forum. Lots of shade and occasional misting for a couple of days, ignore the wilting, don't over-water, and... just wait it out. That's what I'd do, if I were you. Good luck - Russian sage is a tough but wonderful plant....See More- 19 years ago
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