we need to see the medium ... it definitely should not be soil/dirt ... trees do NOT like the media that perennials and annuals prefer.. it holds way too much water for trees ... since you probably dont need a couple wheelbarrows full ... it is not reasonable to 'make your own' ... so i would suggest a bag of cactus mix ... the idea with trees/conifers... is that they like a sip of water.. and then near total drainage ... with just a little retained water ... BTW .. does you pot have drain holes???? ... it looks suspiciously like a 5 gallon bucket ???? and if you buds out ... and you decide to re-pot it.. it should be no lower than an inch from the top of the pot .... too much retained heat might build up if too low ... good luck ken

Local climate not conducive to best appearance of blue forms of Colorado Spruce, White Fir and Rocky Mountain Juniper. The spruce is often attacked by spruce aphids, which cause needles to drop off. The fir seems to have a tendency to become gaunt with age on its own, but probably there is a specific, causal factor less obvious than aphids. The juniper develops green algae on the second year foliage, so does the spruce. Results vary with specimen and location within the region, of course, but when you see one of these in the more naturally suited climate of eastern WA the superiority of their appearance is startling.

bluebars: This is so sad. I am sorry. Perhaps it is possible to give a level of application of this weed control product that most trees can tolerate while still killing weeds in a lawn. I would never take the risk. Also, I do believe that Norway spruce are more susceptible to poisoning from this product than some other kinds of trees. Norway spruce is one of my absolute favorite trees, and one of its virtues is its very high disease and insect resistance in most parts of the country. These trees are very tough, and also have wonderful drought resistance. But this susceptibility to weed control chemicals is a weak point. I often see some poor looking trees that are weakened if not completely killed by these chemicals. Needless to say, I hate them. The chemicals are designed to kill most everything except grass. Trees, in this regard, are "weeds." Most trees can survive light applications of these chemicals because they are so big and strong, but their basic susceptibility to the chemicals is the same as the weeds. I won't use them around any trees because it has negative effects no matter how light the application. Before we moved here to the Winchester area we lived in Arlington, VA. At the back of our property there we had the most wonderful line of NS trees--especially wonderful in the variation in appearance (growth form, foliage, etc) from tree to tree. Two years ago we went back to see how the old house was doing. The owner invited us in to see the renovations, etc. Out the back I saw all our NS trees dead or dying. All the weeds in that part of the lawn were gone, but also the trees, that were not only beautiful in themselves, but also a wonderful screen blocking the view from the houses behind. Awful! I must admit that I have a different attitude about lawns than most people. Weeds in a lawn dont really bother me, unless there is some kind that completely takes over and then doesnÂt provide a good ground cover. I really love dandelions, etc. and others that produce nice flowers at different times of the year. My attitude is one that was held for many years in this country. If you ever go to Monticello (Jefferson"s home) in VA and take the garden tour, you will probably be told about how people felt about lawns in those days and how the variety of plants that mixed in with the grasses were thought to be a plus. One of the "weeds" that grew in lawns at that time gave a wonderful fragrance when stepped on. I wish my view of lawns were more common. I have tried to talk to my friends about allowing more variety in their lawns and to stop using these chemicals, but I am sorry to say I donÂt think in all the years I have been doing this that I have made a single convert. There are some people I have met who agree with me, but I have never changed any minds. What to do? Two possible solutions. First, one can place mulch around the trees. Because the roots can extend so far, this may not be practical in most situations. Perhaps mulch closer to the tree, and then some kind of ground-cover plant extending further out or a flower garden, maybe. For the lawn--if the weeds get too bad, kill the old lawn with all the weeds, etc--perhaps with Roundup or something that is active on the foliage and not in the ground, and then replant with a kind of seed guaranteed to be weed seed free. Weeds will eventually come back, however. Perhaps for a long time they can be controlled in areas near trees by hand weeding them out. If it is a choice between the trees and the grass--I choose the trees every time. --Spruce

Embotrhium, I didnt notice any mites or aphids, but then again i didnt have enough time to inspect the whole tree. ken_adrian, I'm in Bulgaria, Eastern Europe. Its still warm...the october, november this year are like that, above or around 10 degrees now, after a rainy spring and a dry summer. And with more raining than usual almost the whole last year...outside than that i couldnt think of anything unusual. The damage is on the lower branches mainly, more on the inner side....the top 3 or 4 levels of branches seemed not to be affected at all. Unfortunately i dont know if we could make it there before the next weekend...but if not earlier i will check for mites or aphids on saturday and take a cam with me to make better pictures. Ill post them here as soon as i have them. Thanks, Hristo