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Minnesota Gardening

evergreen shrub for minimum shade.

18 years ago

I want to put in some evergreen shrubs along the top of a hill on the North side of our yard. There is very little sun and it is not only on the north there is a large Oak shading the area.

They need to be short or they will block our neighbors view of the beautiful park by us. Probably under 3'. I want to put them in as I am going to put ground cover on the hill and each winter on the way to the sledding hill a few kids use our hill to get there. Not good for anything growing there so I figure some shrubs will keep them away. We don't want to put a fence there.

I also worry that one of these days the sled will go right into the street with

child.

So I need a shade loving evergreen under 3'. The area is only about 16', I may just put one or two clumps of three so it doesn't end up in a straight line. I could even see both evergreen and possibly something that flowers early enough that the oak isn't fully leafed out.

Pauline

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Comments (4)

leaveswave
18 years ago
so, is it full shade or part shade? possibilities might include arborvitae, juniper, yew. I'm worried aobut damage to the oak if you're going to be planting among its roots, I've heard they don't tolerate that as well as some trees do...

SULIS plant selection database: http://www.sustland.umn.edu/plant/index.html
virginia_w
18 years ago
Pauline,

Try Russian cypress, 'Microbiota decussata'. It is a low-growing shrub (about 1' high). It spreads to 3-5'. I've had two for about 10 years. Mine get a little afternoon sun, but they can take pretty heavy shade. I've had to cut one back because it spread out into the path too far.
Virginia
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I'd do a mix of perennials, you can do Gaultheria procumbens (wintergreen! chew on the berries/leaves, evergreen to semi-evergreen) and the sprawling Phlox divaricata which will flop over if planted on the edge. Phlox divaricata 'May Breeze' is a beautiful off-white/dove grey/baby blue (really strange color) and there are others that come in a bevy of pretty purples too. Microbiota decussata or Russian cyprus seems to take shade. I'll think of others.
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Bareness under groupings of tulip poplars is usual. Being magnolia relations they likewise probably won't be wild about planting holes being dug out of their root mats. How much maneuvering room do you have? To a large extend the best quality hedges are still yew, holly and box. Yew is of course poisonous to anything that might eat the seeds. You could get around this by planting a known male clone. Yew also must have excellent drainage, so does box. You may find more tolerance to clay-like soil among the great many different kinds of holly. Never use soil conditioners as in bark, compost, peat or sand when planting long-lived plants with large root systems such as shrubs and trees. Always refill the planting holes with the same soil that came out of them, without modification.
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Depending on where you live and climatic suitability, I'd suggest Ilex crenata 'Sky Pencil', Ilex crenata 'Mariesii' Azara microphylla or Euonymus japonicus 'Green Spire'. Of these, the Sky Pencil is the most distinctly columnar, followed closely by the euonymus. The 'Mariesii' is very slow growing but in time can reach a significant height. All, being broadleafed evergreen shrubs, are quite tolerant of pruning should it be necessary. Nandina domestica is also very tolerant of shade and tends to grow taller than wide so can be used in this situation but is considered invasive in some parts of the country. Irish yews are also very columnar when young (they fatten up as they mature) and are the most shade tolerant of conifers.
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I know you say that, Gardengal, but I grew up in a zone 5 midwestern town and saw many years worth of established Hick's yews blasting out upward growth every Spring. Later, throughout the summer would come more, and all this easily added up to a decent foot of growth. Where you are, 4" to 6" may be all you get, but it's not what is typical of Hick's in the upper Midwest. Here's a picture I snatched off of Google and you can see that there is easily more than 6" of new growth. It is not fully expanded and will become even taller. It is merely one flush of growth whereas there would be 2 more lesser ones coming before the summer growing season is finished. It adds up. It really doesn't matter what "reputable conifer sources" say when one can see endless examples to the contrary right in front of their eyes.
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zenpotter
Original Author
18 years ago
leaveswave-Thank you for reminding me about the oak. I will stop planning this I will have to figure out another way to stop the sledding. I know I can't plant where the oaks roots are. Thank you again. I would have gotten it all planned out and then remembered.
leftwood
18 years ago
I wouldn't worry about the oak to much. The amount of root damage you will cause will be minimal compared to the total root system(even on that side of the tree), as long as you don't cut any large roots. Assuming also you are planting individually, and not preparing an entire bed. The extra watering you will be doing the first year should mitigate the disturbance too. I would bet that the oak has roots in the neighbor's yard too - across the street!

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