If you dug these up out of the ground in July, cutting off much/most of the roots in the process that is your problem. Maybe some of them will releaf later. Digging a bunch of stuff into the ground will be of no benefit unless you amended the entire potential rooting area for many years, so that there is an even soil texture throughout. If you amended small planting holes only, that was a mistake. You do not want to plant into zones of differing soil textures that will affect the movement of water into and out of the rooting area of the plants.

If the water-holding capcity of the hole and the surrounding soil is simiar, so that the hole is neither more wet or dry than the surrounding area, then things are probably fine.

You will lose the leaves and maybe some wood, but that is the price you pay when you move and want to take the plants, you do the best you can. We moved last June and I did the same. The plants had a miserable year and they are still recovering this year. Sometimes a dirty maple that may have some Verticillium or other disease in it can truly suffer as the disease can take hold and the plant never returns to its original health, or maybe even dies.

You should mulch well, water when dry, probably 1-2x per week, and trim back any dying wood or twigs as you notice them. If there is a branch in decline, I suggest removing it so the tree doesn't have to expend energy trying to compartmentalize the damage.

I didn't take all my maples when we moved, but the ones that did not obviously impact the landscape plan came with me. I had a very large and beutiful Aratama that was incredibly happy in its old home. I dug it into a 25 gallon can and it has not been the same. It is still alive and will be for a while but it will never be what it was and I often wonder why I did not just leave it for others to enjoy. I would probably dig it up again, but I would still feel like I made the wrong choice after the fact.

Thanks for the feedback folks. The water holding capacity is fairly much the same, so I'm okay there. I still wonder if burlap tents staked over them would help the sun situation until they're more acclimated...any thoughts?

Yes, temporary shade will help.

But no matter what the texture of rootball soil and the surrounding soil, the trees need water -- apply it to the area of the original rootball. They are now too dry.

Actually, the water holding capacity would not be likely to be similar unless only a small amount of amendments was used. Enough amendments to "improve" the texture of the backfill significantly, which is the main idea in the first place, is enough to change how water moves into and out of it. But the procedure at this point is still the same: water carefully and keep an eye on the soil, maybe digging test holes a few times to check.

Thanks all...I'm watering deeply and regularly, checking on them all every few hours (like they are sleeping babies!!), and will do the test holes as recommended. Tomorrow I'll start setting up some more temporary shade covering.

I did this video a few years ago, maybe only 5-6 of them are shown in it, but if you care to watch, I hope you enjoy it. You must have high-speed, and hopefully it will not buffer too much.

Here is a link that might be useful: JM's - set to Peter Gabriel's 'Biko'

I haved moved many maples japanese maples at this time of year will little problems. The only time I have had loss is when I have left the roots exposed for any length of time and they have dried out. In my opinion tenting would help as it would reduce the need for moisture. If you cut a large amount of roots you may want to post another question about pruning at this point to ballance the top of the plant with its current root system. I know its a good Idea with new plants but I am not sure how it impacts plants at this time of the year. David

"Balancing" is a myth. Do not cut back the top. Growth of new roots is supported by the top, and vice versa. The more total plant mass that comes along during a move, the more it can grow afterward.