I moved a young maple tree last summer. I moved it in late spring before it got hot. It had only been in place for a year so the roots hadn't grown much from its original root ball. Throughout the summer it lost most of its leaves and didn't seem to start growing new leaves until fall; just as all the trees were shedding. With an entire growing season lost I was concerned it wouldn't make it through the winter, but right now its buds are opening and it has tons of growth. I've also been told that you should dig at the drip line when removing a tree. Sounds like you may have a norway maple. These seem to be pretty tough trees. good luck.

Thanks for the feedback everyone. After reading people's comments and talking with my wife we have decided to leave it this year and address the issue within the next two springs or falls- maybe cut it down next summer and wait to replace it. The picture I took of this tree faces north. To the south of the tree is a red maple, very young about 2" diameter. This is about 35-45 feet from the Norway. To the NE of the Norway we plan to plant a Swamp White Oak (again, 35-45 feet away) next spring. I imagine the canopy on the maple and oak will get quite big eventually (15-25 years, but still) and we don't want it to look like a giant shade blanket is cast over 1/2 of our yard. We've decided to replace the Norway with a smaller tree- perhaps an American Hornbeam. With a smaller tree in between I think that balances things out nicely, and the Hornbeam is a natural tree to the area If we keep the maple, yes, I won't have to deal with shade or root issues for 20 years or so. But I or whoever is living here will have to eventually, and that's a headache that I just don't want to deal with. Why not plan ahead. What boggles my mind is the previous owners literally planted it 7' from the corner of the home in the flower bed. What on earth were they thinking? We are also moving a crabapple tree next year from opposite end flower bed (again 7' from the house) and extending the flower bed and putting a dogwood tree in. Not sure what to do with the crabapple. I think it is a Donald Wyman, but I can't be sure. I may relocate that to the edge of my property so I can still enjoy the flowers but not have to worry about the fruit.

You can buy rolls of brown kraft paper made for wrapping trees. There are also white plastic spirals available for the same purpose. Thinned white latex paint also works to reflect winter sun. For the first two methods, it's best to wait until after several hard frosts before applying - this helps prevent any insect from taking up residence under the protective layer. The paint can be applied earlier or also just before deep cold sets in. Keep it out of the existing wound, though. Whatever method used, protect the bark from ground level to the lowest branches. It has traditionally been advised that the paper or plastic should be removed once the worst of cold weather is past, but many people don't. The paint washes off eventually by itself, but may be a bit unsightly until it does. You can also erect a burlap screen on the southwest side that doesn't actually touch the tree at all. For just a few trees, this method has much to recommend it - timing isn't an issue, won't hold moisture against the bark, once removed the bark is just as it was.

Thanks for the info all! Hoping like crazy they will pull through! @tsugajunkie: they are getting watered once a week now, I'll wait until my other maples drop their leaves to tell if these have managed to enter dormancy OK. And just realised that last pic was a bad pic, I staked them (carefully) with fresh willow branches which is what you see, the maple stem is behind the willow. Any more advice would be much appreciated!