Japanese Maple - Question regarding moss on bark and cracked bark
gordo
16 years ago
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mattlwfowler
16 years agomyersphcf
16 years agoRelated Discussions
butterfly, coral bark, inabe shidare-- what to plant under them?
Comments (1)I'm in TN, so I really don't know what grows best there, but I planted some Japanese Holly under my JM and it looks good. They have very small dark-green leaves that are evergreen, and they stay very low. Another one I like is Juniper 'Blue Rug', and my personal faviorite is variagated Vinca minor. Slow-growing vine with white-rimed leaves and lavender flowers in the spring. Only gets a few inches high. If you want something VERY low, try Irish moss 'Aurea'. Its not really a moss, but looks like it. Lime green, and gets tiny white flowers the size of a pin head in the summer. Looks good with rocks! Regards, K4...See MoreSome questions about Japanese maples at Lowes.
Comments (7)$59 is a BARGAIN for a tree that size!! 15 gallon, 4-5' 'Crimson Queen's go for well over a hundred at most retail nurseries -- my own sells 5 gallons CQ's for $75. Because of the eventual mature spread, I'm not sure this would be my first choice for a long term container plant. It's just going be a lot harder to repot, root prune and provide other attention when you are working with a tree of this width. But it will certainly work for awhile :-) And for any long term container planting, especially Japanese maples, I'd look for the best potting soil you can find. It should have a high concentration of bark fines. There have been numerous dicussions on this forum regarding an appropriate mix. I've attached a link to a more recent one that generated a rather spirited discussion :-) One of the contributors (Al/tapla) is a widely recognized authority on container culture and you can safely take any of his recommendations to heart and with excellenst results. Here is a link that might be useful: J. maple potting soils...See MoreDwarf Japanese Maple - Crack where branch meets trunk.
Comments (3)Bolting or cabling is very common to salvage split branching or to prevent against further damage. There were multiple discussions on this topic here a couple of seasons ago after a heavy, wet snowfall and a lot of damage to weeping laceleaf maples (which tend to accumulate and hold snow in their branches). Do a Google search on "tree bolting or cabling" - you'll find various resources and videos showing you precisely how to do so. Contrary to what many think, if a split branch or fork is not immediately addressed (within 24-36 hours), the tree begins to compartmentalize amd seal off the injury and if that happens, the split will never grow back together and will remain a structural weakness and liable to further damage. IMO, cabling or bolting in this situation is the ONLY way to go. Here is a link that might be useful: cabling a tree...See MoreJapanese Maple Disease Questions
Comments (16)There is not a single topic where qualified horticultural professionals do not have dissenting opinions. Indeed, over time, yesterday's crackpot theory becomes today's widely accepted practice. Andvthe reverse is equally true. I can provide examples of each. I have no problems with disagreement...it means we have views that are different, nothing more. I can tell you this much...technically, no diagnosis should be given without a lab report. In practical terms, symptoms are given, probable diagnosis are given, no lab ever consulted. Same with nutrient issues. Very few are going to go through the trouble of collecting samples, sending them in, and waiting...and nearly every soil test i've ever seen has at least a token amount of fertilizer recommended. And who exactly is going going to go for a tissue analysis? Except in extraordinary circumstances? So making this claim is misleading, it's an attempt to shut down dissent, not create a conversation. Let's not even start going down the rabbit hole of analyzing and interpreting soil test results...basically, that's one subject where there is no agreement. I'll admit most people fertilize where they have no business doing so. I won't comment on some of the products out there or the claims made by various parties. In particular instance...we have a plant recently acquired, still in a pot. Trying to exclude container practices while claiming the umbrella of established landscape plantings is misleading. For the record, i'm not suggesting we fertilize this puppy till there is no fertilizer left on the county. I'm suggesting a half rate dose of a liquid soluble, aka, a shot in the arm. It can do little harm...and can have the benefit of pushing new growth. Explaing how photosynthesis occurs...great...now, how do plants take up nutrients? There needs to be room for dissenting views, in many forums of life. I'm not promulgating crazy high doses, or mix your own concoctions because i took a high school chemistry class...this is not a radical proposal i'm making. And frankly, it's one respected horticultural professionals across the country give routinely. Feel free to disagree...you can be a qualified and respected professional and disagree. Especially in horticulture....See Moregordo
16 years agoUser
6 years agoRebecca Hartkopf
last year
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