"I bought lucky 13 a mid-season because it is the biggest selling PF peach. Olpea grows it but I never heard him comment on it?" I do grow Lucky 13 and it's a good peach. I do prefer more of the stellar series peaches vs. Paul Friday's varieties. Just as a background note for anyone reading this thread. Paul Friday's (Flamin' Fury) varieties were bred in Michigan, as were the Stellar series varieties (any peach with "star" in the name). The Haven series peaches (Redhaven, Cresthaven, Glohaven, etc.) were also developed in Michigan (a long time ago). The Harrow series peaches were developed just across the line in Ontario, so they are also Michigan climate peaches (more or less). Harrow varieties can be identified with the letters "har" somewhere in the name. A lot of peaches were developed in the Michigan area! I've grown Harrow Beauty and Harken for quite a few years. I prefer Harken, which tastes like Redhaven in my opinion. Redhaven doesn't bring much praise on this forum, but I love it. Unless there is a lot of rain, Redhaven has excellent flavor here. Harrow Beauty is good too, but it is prone to turn a bit mealy in extremely high temperatures during ripening. It's done it a few years and whenever it happens, I sell them as seconds (intended for canning or jam). I agree an early peach might be the best bet for no spray. I planted Harrow Diamond for the first time this year so I'm anxious to see how it tastes. I agree with Drew, any homegrown grafted variety peach will be superior to a grocery store peach. I'm also excited about Rich May for a very early variety. I planted the variety in 2012, so I haven't tried it from my own trees yet (did have one from the grocery store). I've heard good things about it for an early peach. It's supposed to ripen 10 days earlier than Harrow Diamond.

John is giving your good advice. A grafted tree will take about 3 to 5 years to produce its first fruits. Some cultivars are more precocious than others, like satsumas, which will produce readily and early. Others can be a bit slower to produce. Rootstocks can impart vigor, and earlier fruiting, but those tend to be standard rootstocks (like what John likes to use, Macrophylla being the rootstock of preference for John's area), and other rootstocks which are more dwarfing may produce trees that grow slower, and produce fruit a bit more slowly, but will give you a tree more easily managed. Also, container citrus can be a bit slower to produce fruit as well. Lastly, too much nitrogen can produce great looking trees with no blossoms. So, make sure you fertilize enough, but don't overdo the nitrogen. I suspect you'll see blossoms this spring. Now remember, it's not unusual for that first fruit set to drop some and even all of the fruit, so be prepared for that, too :-) Key limes, like all limes (and the wonderful Meyer lemon), are PROLIFIC fruit producers, so once it starts, you'll be in limes up to your eyeballs. No, a tree does not have to be grafted to produce fruits, but seedling trees can take longer to produce. And, we graft trees because some trees on their own roots can have issues with soil conditions and fungal organisms, so we use rootstocks that provide better protection from certain soil conditions and organisms. And, they can also regulate growth, so we don't end up with a 40' grapefruit or pommelo tree! You can air layer a citrus tree, and some cultivars, like lemons, will actually root from cuttings pretty easily. Still, I'm with John, your best bet is a grafted tree. You will get the variety you want, on rootstock that will do the best in your area of the country, and in your soil and weather conditions. Patty S.

Kiwinut: Hey that's the kind of response I need. As I said in the first post "it looked like it was a graft." I was not certain by any means. After hearing what you and Gorgi have said, I have to agree that it probably is not. I'm happy either way. I'm glad knowing the BJ fig I bought is coming back. If you both said something different, and indicated it was a graft on something like an LSU. That would have been great too. Since those are good figs for my area, and are supposed to be tasty. I just wanted to know what the plant growing from the roots most likely was, a volunteer from the rootstock, or the original BJ tree growing back from its roots in order to take care of it the best I can as it recovers and grows back.

Lately I only care about roses grafted on Fortuniana for where I live - California. They are way more vigorous then Dr Huey! I just found out all my roses are on Fortuniana except: Angel Face, Fragrant Cloud, - which are wimpy roses. Queen Elizabeth and Double Delight on Dr. H. are doing fine, but I am sure on Fortuniana they will do way better.