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inherited a Japanese maple (Bloodgood?) what now??

16 years ago

Two years ago we moved into our house and a lovely J. Maple (I believe Bloodgood based on a photo ID), is in the front yard. Each year it seems to lose and sprout its leaves differently so I think it's time for me to understand the tree so I can take care of it.

FAll '04, for example, it dropped all of its leaves at the same moment. We were literally looking out the window and they fell off! Then in the Spring of 05 it sprouted leaves in May, I believe, and it was healthy looking all Summer even with a drought here in Cincinnati and my watering regularly.

Then, in Fall 05, all the leaves stayed on most of the winter having turned a pale pinkish yellow and only fell in December/January. Now in Spring 06 everyone else's J. Maples leaves are out fully and ours has only a few at the ends of the limbs.

How should I be maintaining this tree to insure its health and survival. Since we've been here at least, it's not been pruned and it's about 10-12' high and a nice round shape.

I'm afriad that if I don't do SOMETHING soon, it will start to decline. Or am I worrying too much?

Thanks,

Nina

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Comments (3)

Smivies (Ontario - 5b)
16 years ago
Did you fertilize it last summer? The symptoms sound as if the tree received fertilizer past the middle of July. Fertilizer tree stakes can do this too even when applied in the spring (the fertilizer is long lasting). Trees growing with the benefit of fertilizer are tricked into continuing growth when they should be winding down for the season. Once the cold weather hits, they are not prepared and lack appropriate cold hardiness.

Whatever the cause, the damage is done. The tree should have the strength to recover with some dieback and may look sparse for a couple of years.

Simon
ninajc
Original Author
16 years ago
Simon, Thank you.

In August'04 I did put some slow release fertilizer down. In the past year, I have become much more educated in the gardening area, and now, have started compost piles, etc. in order to "fertilize" more naturally.

So, I take it that you mean I shouldn't do any pruning of the tree at this time despite the odd leaf growth confined to the ends of the branches. Is that correct? There are buds starting to develop further in on the branches and also, even if pruning were recommended, it's my understanding that many trees prefer Fall or early Winter. Is that your understanding too?

Anyway, thanks for you help. I hope I haven't destroyed it (and a bunch of other nice things) while I'm learning.

Nina
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Sorry I've confused you.Clear the soil and mulch now,the base of the trunk needs to be able to 'breath' and not be buried in damp soil.The trunk should be exposed right down to where it begins to bulge out(called the root flare),immediately above the roots.It's quite common to have to remove 2-3" where nurseries have potted them too deep.If it's not rodent damage it could even be the dampness around the trunk base that triggered the peeling.I suggested autumn as the time to raise the tree up if you think it's planted with the root flare below the surrounding soil level. You can't beat using your hands for checking soil moisture.Use a small trowel and dig down the full depth of the roots just outside the rootball and feel if the soil's nice and damp down there but not soggy.One usually gets some dieing of leaves on newly transplanted trees,especially if your summer's hot.The bark damage isn't helping either.There's probably not a lot you can do about that apart from getting the watering right.Don't be surprised if it loses some more leaves until it starts recovering and settling in. I suggested a general fungicide just as a precaution because the trunk base will be very damp now and it's something most people have in their shed.Don't worry if not have,the important thing is to get the bottom of that tree exposed and dried out so it can heal,and to get the watering right.
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If I do decide to prune the grey-maybe-dead branches ==>>> grey is dead ... not maybe dead ... on your last pic.. the cut would probably made to the right of your pic ... or you can cut it back there next spring.. when no viable buds pop out oif where you think they might ... but you can dismiss that though ... in my MI ... the wall would reflect winter sun.. and POSSIBLY cause the plant to go in and out of dormancy.. the heat build up.. on the bark or under it .... leading to exactly what you are seeing with your tree... dismiss it if you want ... though i doubt its an issue in the pnw ... but if your sure your location is irrelevant.. dismiss if you want ... trees grow in tree time.. counted in decades .. there is rarely a hurry to prune for aesthetic .. the easy answer is let it bud out next spring.. and then just prune out the dead stuff ... what exactly is your hurry ... but dismiss that also.. if you want ... ken
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breenthumb
16 years ago
Ninajc, trust your tree! At that size it is established enough to care for itself and sounds like it was doing that quite nicely. The conditions each year are different, which probably accounts for what it does and when, as it acclimates to the weather.

If you DO do something soon you may lose it. Why do you feel it needs to be pruned? To me, the graceful shape they develop on their own is beautiful. I thought that was part of the charm of Japanese Maples.

My SIL, on the other hand, liked ours so much she planted one in a little garden area right next to the house and keeps it pruned so she can see out the window. The trunk is growing but the top is a perfectly round little meatball shape! I cringe every time I see it. What a waste of a beautiful tree. Sandy

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