inherited a Japanese maple (Bloodgood?) what now??

18 years ago

Two years ago we moved into our house and a lovely J. Maple (I believe Bloodgood based on a photo ID), is in the front yard. Each year it seems to lose and sprout its leaves differently so I think it's time for me to understand the tree so I can take care of it.

FAll '04, for example, it dropped all of its leaves at the same moment. We were literally looking out the window and they fell off! Then in the Spring of 05 it sprouted leaves in May, I believe, and it was healthy looking all Summer even with a drought here in Cincinnati and my watering regularly.

Then, in Fall 05, all the leaves stayed on most of the winter having turned a pale pinkish yellow and only fell in December/January. Now in Spring 06 everyone else's J. Maples leaves are out fully and ours has only a few at the ends of the limbs.

How should I be maintaining this tree to insure its health and survival. Since we've been here at least, it's not been pruned and it's about 10-12' high and a nice round shape.

I'm afriad that if I don't do SOMETHING soon, it will start to decline. Or am I worrying too much?

Thanks,

Nina

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Comments (3)

Smivies (Ontario - 5b)
18 years ago
Did you fertilize it last summer? The symptoms sound as if the tree received fertilizer past the middle of July. Fertilizer tree stakes can do this too even when applied in the spring (the fertilizer is long lasting). Trees growing with the benefit of fertilizer are tricked into continuing growth when they should be winding down for the season. Once the cold weather hits, they are not prepared and lack appropriate cold hardiness.

Whatever the cause, the damage is done. The tree should have the strength to recover with some dieback and may look sparse for a couple of years.

Simon
ninajc
Original Author
18 years ago
Simon, Thank you.

In August'04 I did put some slow release fertilizer down. In the past year, I have become much more educated in the gardening area, and now, have started compost piles, etc. in order to "fertilize" more naturally.

So, I take it that you mean I shouldn't do any pruning of the tree at this time despite the odd leaf growth confined to the ends of the branches. Is that correct? There are buds starting to develop further in on the branches and also, even if pruning were recommended, it's my understanding that many trees prefer Fall or early Winter. Is that your understanding too?

Anyway, thanks for you help. I hope I haven't destroyed it (and a bunch of other nice things) while I'm learning.

Nina
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First, your 'sprouts' or any seedling grown Japanese maple cannot be a named form like 'Bloodgood'. Named forms can only be propagated asexually, by grafting (most common) or cuttings (much less common and harder to do). Seed grown Japanese maples are just examples of the species, Acer palmatum. Period. These can be very variable in leaf color and shape, sometimes looking very much like the parent tree and othertimes not at all. I can't tell you how much or how often to water but you want the soil to stay just moist - not wet and not too dry. You should have some drainage holes in the bottom of those cups :-) And in zone 8, it is never too cold for Japanese maples unless you are trying to grow babies like these in those cups outdoors over winter. It is best if you have one seedling/sprout per cup........once they reach about 6-8 inches tall, you should repot them in a larger pot with good potting soil. This time next year you can plant in the ground.
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magpie, thanks so much for looking out for my emotional adjustment and trying to prepare me for the removal of the tree :-) I poked around a garden center on my way home from work earlier and started looking at small trees. Today there is budding on something between half and 2/3 of the tree. I'm guessing it's in pretty much the same state it was in immediately after the event in September, but I want to give it at least another week before stating to cut on it. Was trying to imagine how it will look after the dead parts are cut off but I'm not quite enough of a Jap Maple genius to keep it all in my head. A good chunk of what would be considered the 'main' body of the tree appears dead. Regardless of how strange it looks after the trim. I think it doubtful I'll be giving up on it unless there's another dieoff event. Still, would appreciate suggestions for small trees which primarily add interest.
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Sorry I've confused you.Clear the soil and mulch now,the base of the trunk needs to be able to 'breath' and not be buried in damp soil.The trunk should be exposed right down to where it begins to bulge out(called the root flare),immediately above the roots.It's quite common to have to remove 2-3" where nurseries have potted them too deep.If it's not rodent damage it could even be the dampness around the trunk base that triggered the peeling.I suggested autumn as the time to raise the tree up if you think it's planted with the root flare below the surrounding soil level. You can't beat using your hands for checking soil moisture.Use a small trowel and dig down the full depth of the roots just outside the rootball and feel if the soil's nice and damp down there but not soggy.One usually gets some dieing of leaves on newly transplanted trees,especially if your summer's hot.The bark damage isn't helping either.There's probably not a lot you can do about that apart from getting the watering right.Don't be surprised if it loses some more leaves until it starts recovering and settling in. I suggested a general fungicide just as a precaution because the trunk base will be very damp now and it's something most people have in their shed.Don't worry if not have,the important thing is to get the bottom of that tree exposed and dried out so it can heal,and to get the watering right.
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I'd tend to agree with both david and subtropic - not all that fussy at all. Just good drainage and sufficient irrigation during dry spells. Actually, the red leaved forms - both weeping dissectums and uprights like Bloodgood - are extremely tolerant of lots of sun (although leaf color may be impacted) and even moderate wind. OTOH, Sango Kaku and other red barked JM's tend to have increased disease issues and can be quite fussy for their genre :-) And I would only refer to some of the variegated ones as "divas".....but then I might hold a different opinion if I were in a zone 6. Due to its early leafing nature, Bloodgood does have a reputation for being damaged by late spring frosts in colder zones - Emperor I was introduced as a 'superior' alternative as it buds/leafs out somewhat later and is less likely to experience significant damage. Even so, it should be able to develop and send out a later flush of foliage in another few weeks. You may just not see it as full and as lush looking as if had escaped the cold weather but it should come around. And you might look for a bit of end twig die back as well but nothing overly serious.
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breenthumb
18 years ago
Ninajc, trust your tree! At that size it is established enough to care for itself and sounds like it was doing that quite nicely. The conditions each year are different, which probably accounts for what it does and when, as it acclimates to the weather.

If you DO do something soon you may lose it. Why do you feel it needs to be pruned? To me, the graceful shape they develop on their own is beautiful. I thought that was part of the charm of Japanese Maples.

My SIL, on the other hand, liked ours so much she planted one in a little garden area right next to the house and keeps it pruned so she can see out the window. The trunk is growing but the top is a perfectly round little meatball shape! I cringe every time I see it. What a waste of a beautiful tree. Sandy

inherited a Japanese maple (Bloodgood?) what now??

Comments (3)

Smivies (Ontario - 5b)

ninajc
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inherited a Japanese maple (Bloodgood?) what now??

Comments (3)

Smivies (Ontario - 5b)

ninajcOriginal Author

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breenthumb

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ninajc
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