I haven't tracked my harvest, but it would depend upon what size of peas that you would pick. Some people like them very small and some like them larger.

I will state that it takes alot of peas, no matter what type, to make a pound.

Marla

and it takes a long time to pick them.

It's easy if you don't mind what size, let a 3 yr old do it. My granddaughter loves to pick them.

Marla,

I'm sure it does. At least 16 ounces of them!

Randy,

Is that because there are so many per plant? Do you use netting?

MFM,

I have a helper, not including my wife, though he is about 11-12. Is it best to use a scissors to snip them so as not to damage the plant? I hope to have >500 plants growing, once in the spring, another in the fall.

Still trying to find out what the average yield per plant is - an ounce, a pound, more, less, in between? If nothing else, this time next year, I hope to be able to provide an answer! I'm thinking that about 8 ounces per plant (pods and peas) would be realistic in a good year. A local discount produce store had them for sale for $2.99/lb., $3.29 for snow peas.

Mike

Actually she's a really good worker, providing she gets her breaks. work 5 play 5. she will pick a 50 ft row in about 1 hr, and she's good, the plants are picked well without damaging. Of course, she also helps transplant plants from cell paks to 4" pots without breaking them. We trained her early, 18 months, that the plants are babies and we need to be nice to babies.

I can tell you I sell mine for $4-6 per pound, for snow peas and sugar snaps.

Marla

Mike-i trellis them but not with netting, just twine.

I found some figues from the California Cooperative Extention Service and was able to extrapolate from the figures given of almost 1/4 lb per plant when planted on trellises (yield per acre/plant density). I am not sure how that translates to your area but seems pretty well in line with what we do here.

Here is a link that might be useful: Edible Pod Pea production

I found an obscure link from the OH Extension Service. It didn't directly answer my question but it said a pound of snap peas was about 15 pods. That would translate into the best production that your link suggests, henhouse.

Even at 1/4 pound per plant, at 300 plants per 100 feet, that would be 75 or more pounds. Way better than the 20 pounds a couple of web sites state.

Thanks!

Mike

I plant my Snap Peas with my push seeder and I think it plants
about 1 plant per inch. 1 plant every 4 inches is way to thin.
Plant them thick an enjoy a good harvest.
Expect At least 3 pounds of sugar snaps per 10 row feet of double row.
Always plant in double rows about 8 inches apart so they will support themselves.
Mark.

When I was taught to plant beans and peas, back in the 50s, what you did was...2 seeds (1 to grow and 1 for the birds) at your heel, 2 seeds at your toe and 2 seeds between (usually your arch), then put your other foot in front. That gave you the 2 seeds at your heel, repeat with 2 seeds at your toe and 2 seeds at your arch.

Yes, it was slow to start, but after awhile (years) it got to be a habit.

Now, I thinnly scatter the peas in a furrow and cover. I plan my peas and beans rather thickly, so that it plants will hold each other up and choke out the weeds within the rows. I don't bother with trellising. When I pick, I lean the peas to one side and the next picking I lean them back.

I might not do things right, but they've worked for me for years now. Plus when my grandkids help I don't worry if things are not perfect, and it teaches them not to worry about imperfections either.

Marla

Marla,

I plan on germinating the seeds inside and getting them to transplant stage. Hopefully, that will knock 3 weeks to month off the growing time. In the experiment I'm trying, I'm at 67 percent germ rate, but I am not using good potting mix and this is my first try. I would expect closer to 80 percent.

It looks like I will have about 150-175 feet of space for my peas. A double row, at 2" per plant, would give me 1800 plants or more. At 1/4 pound per plant, that would mean 450 pounds of peas.

Mike

I've never seen peas for transplant, but I have seen both corn and beans done that way. I don't think you'll get more than 2 weeks off of the time, but 2 weeks plus the idea of only using your space for actual plants might be worth it. I don't have enough space, inside, to do that. I'll be interested in knowing how much time you've saved from in ground planting to harvest.

Marla

You are wasting your time transplanting peas. Due to transplant shock you will gain no meaningful time from direct seeding. Imagine the work and waste of time potting & transplanting 1500 pea plants for absolutely nothing.
direct seed when ground temp reaches 50 degrees they shoulod germinate in 8-9 days and finish in 65-70 days.
I plant my peas around april 10 in michigan and enjoy my first sugar sprints around june 15.

Alot of people transplant beans and corn to get early crops, so evidently it's not a total loss. Plus how much money will you be out? I've done alot of things because except for time, I'm only out 10 cents or so, but the knowledge is so worth more than that. Go for it.

Marla

Maybe in your area. I re-use my pots, after properly cleaning them, and a bit of soil and a few seeds. Maybe not 1800 seeds. But as a commercial grower, I would not. Only if I had extra room in my greenhouse.

Remember, years and years ago, NOBODY, worth a lick of common sense, transplanted cole crops or even tomatoes.
And you don't use pots, you would use plug trays (which can be re-used) or liner (also re-useable). Don't use the little plug tray (like 84s or 128s), use the 50s only because of the size of the seeds.

One of the biggest Amish growers in my area (he supplies WalMart/Kroger/Marsh and sometimes Meijer) uses this way to get earlier corn and beans. If it's good enough for him and his BUSINESS, it's good enough for me. Unfortunately I wasn't blessed with 10 children to help in the fields.

Wordwiz, I wouldn't invest my entire supply of seeds, but I would try up to 1/2 of my seeds. The knowledge is SO worth. It might work, or not, for you.

Marla

Marla, maybe your Amish friend has about 100 children because that,s about how many it would take.

I just looked at some other threads about selling plants, and there were some posts regarding selling out of pea transplants.

Mark, Up in your area, you might be able to keep peas til June 15th. Down here, by that time our peas are usually burnt up and we picking cherry tomatoes and looking for the regular size tomatoes. If a person doesn't have a longer time of COOL weather, we have to do whatever it takes to have those veggies.

I'm not sure what you mean about needing 100 children, but you also DON"T transplant acres by hand. Maybe you do, but I have 1 son that can transplant 400 plants per hour on a slow hour. Of course, that is also tranplanting 12" apart. He has worked in Landscaping for 15+ years doing it. I understand everyone can't do that, I know I can't do that many.

Marla

cowpie,

You may be right but I've read many places where peas can be transplanted. I'll find out in a week or so. It's suppose to get into single digits later this week but after that warm up. I have a small heater in the GH but hope to avoid using it.

Marla, they are in 200-cell nursery flats so do not take up much space. On the 16th, it will be three weeks since I sowed them; if they keep growing at the rate they have been, they should be about 6-8" tall by then.

Of course, since they will be grown in more of a controlled environment, I would expect the yield to be a bit higher that from a field but it should give me an idea of what growing them will be like.

Mike

Mike, one year, I planted a 36" window box with beans, just regular green bush beans, some old seeds. I planted along both sides and 1 row down the middle. Left them in the greenhouse, only covering with row covers (cheap kind) when it called for below 20 degrees outside. Keep in mind this greenhouse was only covered with 1 layer of cheapy plastic. In the proper time, I picked beans, not many, but some. I think I might have got a handful at a time.

BTW, I had friends that planted potatoes in their greenhouse and got them earlier also, not enough to make it worth while, but it worked. Another friend that dug up part of her greenhouse and had wonderful broccoli in late May/early June. Much earlier than outside plantings. She would bring a S10 pickup full of broccoli. She put a tarp down and started to throw broccoli heads in, then she covered the truck bed with another truck. Unfortunately for her, it wasn't a broccoli selling day.

Mike, where about are you?

Marla

Marla,

Cincinnati. My GH is also single layer, reinforced GH plastic. I had an inner layer of IR/AC plastic but it discolored over the year (I live next to I-75 plus another 4-lane, limited access highway and I suspect some pollutants seeped in) so I removed it.

I won't be using it to really grow plants this year, unless I plant some Okinawan Purple Sweet Potatoes (they take too long to grow during our season). I just have the peas, spinach, chard and broccoli I started to see if the 200-cell tray will be large enough. I will use the GH to hold my seedlings. It looks like I will need to start about 4,000 plants and there's no way I have that much room in my house!

Mike

I don't really have the room in the house, but we live around the plants. I wouldn't thought the 200cell would have been big enough for the seeds plus some dirt.

The last time I was in Cinny, I think Kings Island was new. I know all those interstates drove me nuts. I still don't like 3 lane highways. I'm always getting in the wrong lane. I guess I'm just a country girl no matter where I live.

Marla

Marla,

Dad was like that. His Navy buddy lived in Sydney and every other year, we visited them up there, the other years they would drive to Ripley. Dad took the 2-lane (US 68) to Ed's house until the built I-75. He would get on it in Dayton and finish the route. But he could never get the hang of a cloverleaf, at least for the first three trips. We drove around in circles for an hour or two. Got to the point where we could tell him what was ahead!

I tried the 200-cell flats based on what another gardener said he used for some plants. He wasn't sure if they were large enough for things like peas either. I figured I had little to lose - $2 for the seeds, 50� on the potting mix. They sprouted in three days, literally exploding out of the mix. More than 80 of the 120 have germinated and it looks like a few more are about to.

Mike

I've started sugar snaps in the smallest square jiffypots, the ones that are connected like egg cartons. I start about 650 for 2 double rows in my 48 foot high tunnel. There are several positives for this. one is that it makes my CSA more desireable because people know they will get this treat early.Even in teh high tunnel germination can be slow, I want to know I have plants and no empty spaces. The started plants grow vigorously. As we all know, it takes more warmth to germinate seeds than to grow plants. I don't worry about the starting mix, every time I plant a seedling, I consider that I am adding a soil amendment at the same time. My sandy soil really needs more peat. I have a very short spring where I live (MN z3) Outside seeded peas often succumb to sudden heat. I am also the first to have peas at the farmers market and it seems like getting folks to my table early is beneficial.I think transplanting or not is an individual thing, if the benefits outweigh the negatives then do it. Sorry, I am not sure of the yields though 1/4 to 1/2 lb. per plant sounds about right.

Hi Everyone,
I have been growing sugar snaps and snow peas in 288 cells for several years now. I started doing this because in March, it's often wet and muddy here in Eastern Kansas and a lot of my seed would rot. I've read some of the other posts against this but seriuosly, I've had nothing but good luck with this (I can ALWAYS use some serious vegetable growing help...). The peas germinate quickly indoors under my 5-shelf germination unit, my brother and I built and when I transplant them, I just gently pull them out of the trays after I have watered them too loosen the cells and the seedlings come out in strings. I dig a furrow and lay the soil end of the seedlings into the furrow and cover. I've never had any trouble with transplant shock and I use a cheap netting attached to 4 foot stakes for the peas to vine up. In no time, they're growing up and producing well. By June, the summer heat will burn peas up most years. You might be able to harvest into mid-June but by then it's usually pretty warm here for peas. I've also started corn, beans and long beans this way with great luck. Additionally, I use the 128 cells to start cucumbers, melons and squash with great luck. I've never had trouble with transplant shock but I make sure the root balls remain relatively undisturbed and there's not a problem. Yes, I imagine this would become very labor intensive if you're a very large grower and have no helpers. I'm pretty much by myself with maybe one helper for 6 weeks in the summer, so I do most of this by myself. I learned a long time ago to think outside the box. There's absolutely nothing wrong with following the tried-and-true but it also helps to be a little daring sometimes and go for the unconventional. You never know what kind of gains there are to be made if you don't try it a little bit. I hope this helps!

I'm glad to find a use for those smaller sized plug trays, I simply hate to have something with no use. I've also had trouble with non-germination in the fields. This would be a good training area for the grandkids. They get a kick out of planting plants.

Marla

well , i must admit you all changed my mind,i always thought to plant peas by seed in the ground. but i will be the first to admit i am wrong . after reading these wonderful sucess storrys with early peas i am going to plant some for transpant . i got a few old shoeboxs to plant in and i will transplant in april

I'm hoping the soil melts enough to transplant some peas today. The mix, which was in containers but emptied into the GH a week ago, was still mostly blocks of dirty ice, but it's been in the low 90s inside for a while and it is thawing quickly.

These peas were sowed on January 26 - that evening. I don't have a germ percent yet, I'll note that when I transplant them, as well as the soil temp.

{{gwi:1038914}}

Mike

mike i am figuring for each 6 trays that you plant like the one pictured you will get around 20-25 pounds of sugar snap peas. i plant my peas about 2 inch spacing(600-700 plants per 100 ft.) and get around 20-25 pounds per 100 ft. when harvesting. my price 3.00 pound so 60-75 dollars for 100 ft. my peas are loaded too. it takes lots and lots of peas to get 25 pounds.so to make 500.00 you will need about 800 row ft.
peas are one of my lowest profit crops per sq. ft. and the most laborous. mark

Mark,

That's what a couple of seed companies' web site state, as far as harvest. But that just sounds too low - 1/2 ounce per plant (320 ounces in the 20 pounds, 600 plants). A couple of other posters suggest maybe 1/4-1/2 pound per plant. I could see 1/2 for snow peas but snaps?

I haven't measured it exactly yet, but it looks like about 150-175 feet x two (double rows) but I will probably go three inches per plant.

Do you use a trellis?

Mike

mike i plant 10- 100 ft double rows about 2 ft apart . The whole thing takes up about 20 by 100 ft. of space. in early july after i pick i mulch mow and plow under and plant green beans (jade) my peas are 1000 row ft. of snow peas and 1000 row ft of sugar sprint or similar. this is 2000 sq. ft. and takes up about 6% of my 32,000 sq. ft garden. I plant the peas with an earthway in early April with 3 plantings staggerd over 14 days
I don,t trellis as the peas double planted(rows 6 in. apart) tend to make their own wall. i wait until 70-90 percent of the peas are full size and pick the whole plants and process in my shed on a huge table i have for produce sorting and storage. i do this 3 times as i stagger my plantings so i can do this easy pick style. otherwise my old back would give out as i am overweight.

If you are looking for an easy way to transplant peas, somewhere there was this discussion, I don't remember where.

However, it went like this.

They used long sections of guttering to plant them in a greenhouse or high tunnel. I think they were using 4-8 foot pieces. Then they would put them side by side and plant and let them grow. When it came time to plant them, they dug a furrow, then they just slid the peas and soil out into the furrow. They covered them up and they had instant pea rows. Some one also brought up using pvc pipe cut in half, I am guessing it was 4-6 inch pipe, but I am not sure.

Just another idea to think about. I googled it and found this link.

Enjoy,

Jay

Here is a link that might be useful: Pea Gutter

A youtube video of gutter growers.

Here is a link that might be useful: Gutter Growers

very interesting.

I got them transplanted today - not all of them, I ran out of room, but 66. The germination rate, if no more actually come up, was 65 percent.

The plants were somewhat root bound, but not completely. I need to pick up some more seeds and try the 128-cell tray. Transplanting was not difficult, even though I did not have a hoe handy to make a furrow. I would have to keep moving but if I get the moisture content of the potting mix right and the roots are larger, I think I could plant 200-300 per hour. It would still be a 2-6 hour day, depending on how close and quickly I plant them. These had to be about 4" as the space was only about 10 feet.

Now the challenge is going to be keeping the temps down, at least during the afternoon. It's 48 outside and the sun is low on the horizon, but it is 87 inside. But, it was over 100 before I got the blanket off so maybe the temps would not be that high. Plus, I have a fan I can use to move air.

Mike

mike, just plant seed , you can plant the whole greenhouse in 10 minutes. On sunny days lift the sides of hoophouse/greenhouse up so you keep the green house the same temp as the outside. Peas like 52-75 degrees, no warmer. Mark

Mark,

I don't think I can "lift the sides." It's 12x16' with the poles set in concrete. Old windows on the front and part of the sides, 4x8 sheeting on the north wall. Wired so I can heat and light it, as well as listen to a radio and run a fan.

The idea of transplanting instead of planting is to get ahead start on others - important if one is going to sell at a Farmers Market. Plus, even though germination was not great, I would have either wasted 65 percent of the seeds or had 35 percent of the space empty. Of course, I would love for the peas to grow great but transplanting them seemed like a better option than adding the seedlings to a compost pile. My first goal was to see how they grew in a 200-cell nursery tray.

Mike

Keep us posted about the 128 cells. I'm not ready to open the greenhouse, mine doesn't have sides to lift up either. But I do need to get out there and get it ready. I think I have about a month to be ready for plants. I have a minimum/maximum therometer that I watch for at least a couple of weeks to determine when I might be able to move my 'maters'.

Marla

Marla,

I have one of those, but in order to tell the min/max, I have to reset it each day. A small heater (450 watt) is running now as it is 38 outside. I won't be starting any toms until next week or so, and then they will be inside until they germinate. My goal is to have early toms (Early Wonder) ready to transplant mid-April, though it will likely be the end of the month. Even with row covers, I don't trust Cincy weather. But I figure they will take the full eight weeks to grow to transplant stage since they will not be in a warm nest as in past years.

Mike

I usually got there everyday once I put the thermometer there.

I'll be uppotting some of my first plantings into trays that have 30 deep cell, about 2x as deep as normal trays.

I plant with a May 1st market time, anything before that I don't have a market.

Marla

My plan may have hit a snag - it's 96 inside now, according to my thermometer. I'm hoping that is because the sun is hitting it. I had it in the shade but that was when tomatoes were growing to block it. There is a vent on the west side and a fan on the east exhausting the air. It didn't feel 96, but maybe the upper 70s or low 80s (hard to tell - I'm use to the 20s and 30s!).

Mike

A week has passed and much to my surprise, all the plants appear to have survived the transplant. I'm trying to water them now using a patio mister. Not doing a great job - it takes a long time, but the temps dropped from 103 to 83 in just a matter of moments.

Mike

Egads that is hot.
I am starting to be tempted to do at least 1 tray of peas. I have the 12 packs, 96 to a tray, that I don't use for anything. It sure would be nice to have a few early peas. I would rather do peas in peat cells/pots for easier transplant but that would be too expensive. In fact I cut down on my peat cells quite a bit this season. I am doing brassicas in 4 packs instead and cucurbits mostly in paper cups (cucumbers in peat cell,s -jiffy 7 that is). Sweet peas I do in peat cells and had no crop last year due to weather.
Well Mike being your peas did survive transplant maybe if I have room I will do 2 trays too.

minnie, are you talking about the sweet pea flower or the English shelling type of pea. I love the sweet pea flowers, but haven't been able to get them to grow from my mother's sweet pea flower patch. Her plants have been on her place for over 40 years that I can attest to. Any tips?

Marla