I also have a problem with a branch on my Japanese Maple. The whole branch has no leaves and some sort of growth on it like a White or off White color. I first lost an extended branch in the winter but did not think anything of it. Now I notice that the whole branch with the growth has no leaves. What is wrong and how can I fix this problem.

Probably bacterial or fungal. Notice all the other posts here about diseased Japanese maples.

Well none of us have ever been thru this "once in 50 year freeze" experience to my knowledge... alot will depend on NEXT winter .My gut feeling is if trunk and main branches are OK and no disease present it will recoup fine next spring summer .If A really severe winter or really hot dry fall stressing out tree then all bets are off ...Many of mine have deformed leaves and others have been hurt by the heat this summer although it hasn't been that hot.but they are not in optimin shape to take much at thsi point..all my older trees are lookin good though albiet a bit sparcely leafed. If I were a bettin' man I'd say it will survive and thrive next summer but I am no Nostradamus . david

This came out from the URI Extension Service last week. It was dated March 4th. "Winter Moth update from URI Extension Entomologist Heather Faubert: "I'm afraid winter moth eggs will be hatching in March as they did in 2010 & 2012. The earliest hatch date recorded was March 21, 2012. I'm worried this year egg hatch could be even earlier. I set up tree wraps in 4 locations in RI, one in CT and several Massachusetts blueberry growers also set up tree wraps. The tree wraps encouraged female winter moths to lay eggs just below the tree wraps. I've removed the tree wraps at four locations and found hundreds of eggs to monitor. Winter moth eggs start out orange, but then turn blue a few days before hatching. Very handy for monitoring egg hatch! All eggs I've checked this week are still orange, but that may change next week with predicted warm weather. For landscape trees it’s not important to control winter moth just when hatching, but for apple, pear, and blueberry growers it’s very important. Once eggs hatch, winter moth caterpillars wriggle into swollen buds and begin feeding. For apple & pear trees and blueberry bushes, swollen buds are primarily flower buds. Caterpillars crawl inside the flower buds and begin feeding. Once caterpillars are inside buds they are protected from insecticide sprays until just before bloom and by this time many flowers may have been damaged or destroyed, destroying the crop. Landscape trees, on the other hand, can withstand early winter moth feeding damage. To save landscape trees from being defoliated, insecticides can be applied after trees leaf-out, but while caterpillars are still small and before excessive feeding damage has occurred." Here's the picture that came with it. If you have valuable landscape trees that have had winter moth damage in the past, then look for the eggs. Once they start to turn blue that's when they are beginning to hatch. Personally, I would use Spinosad (Captain Jacks Dead Bug Brew) as a contact insecticide. It's OMRI certified organic. If you have a J Maple you still have another chance to get the caterpillars after they emerge from the buds. Steve