I'm in 10A in SW Florida. That means I have wet summers and dry winters. In the summer I move jades under the overhang because I need to protect them from the heavy rains. They get full sun from Oct. thru most of June and do well. No wilting and no burning. They survive the shade well, but it is a bright shade with plenty of reflected light. My elf has grown in both full sun and shade. It has done very well. All of my Aeoniums have died. I love them, but seem to kill them, so I'll offer NO advice on that. LOL I have used containers so I could move plants easily if I found that the spot I had chosen is not working out. The changing direction of the sun during the various seasons has surprised me more than once.

all fragrant hosta.. like SG and Gauc will take as much sun as you can give them.. and actually need it for best flower production in z5 .... blueness is a wax.. which when super heated in summer followed by a rainstorm.. will wash off.. they will grow faster when green.. but not be as blue ... later int eh summer ... frankly in z5 ann arbor MI .. nearly everything can take full sun.. if you can drown them.. and by the time they get ratty in august.. i dont care ... the best shade.. would be shade only from about 1pm to 4 pm.. just the highest heat of the day .... the further south you go.. the more concern you should have ... just give it a go ...NEVER OVERTHINK hosta... you can always move them next spring if you think they can do better in a better spot... but some of those you picked are big ones 5 years down the line ... and you better place them properly in the first three years.. or you will be renting a backhoe.. good luck ken

You could have fun with families... Cheatin' Heart, Faithful Heart, and Illicit Affar (or Stolen Kiss) look great together Maui Buttercups looks good with its sport Rainforest Sunrise (and where the heck is the reverse, gy sport... should have showed up by now with all the popularity of the parent ann RS...) Dixie Chick and Dixie Chickadee (formerly just Chickadee) are nice reverses of each other - green and a very clear white and speckles - and you will inevitably get a nice green sport to match them out of D Chickadee... Vanilla Cream with its sports Ice Cream and Heart and Soul (or Wylde Green Cream) and one of my favorite small sun-tolerant families... Lemon-Lime (yellow-chartreuse parent of the bunch_ Twist of Lime (LL with a thin green margin) Lemon Delight (most vigorous of the bunch - green with yellow margin) Lemon Frost (y with white margin) Lime Fizz - said to be a seedling of Lemon Delight Shiny Penny - seedling of LL x Shining Tot and doggone it, I know I've got one more out there but its dark and wet out...

boy my answer above sucked.. lol ... winter damage is not just about sun ... it is also about winter winds ... and temp fluctuations ... in mid winter.. a plant .. in your clime should be dormant.. get it dormant.. and keep it dormant ... the problem with evergreen type plants ... is that you get these sunny comparatively warm days.. and the leaves can that ... and then they refreeze at night ... plus the drying effects of winter winds ... and you have a recipe for freeze dried evergreen leaves ... in a sense ... with the multiple variables ... the choice of stock might not matter ... your best shot.. would be to try to find stock that is 2 or 3 zones colder than your zone .... which i now see mary above mentions .... when i started with conifers.. in the ground... damage tended to appear in mid to late spring.. when the temps started warming.. and that is when the evergreen tissue started browning ... i found it very hard to figure out.. when the actual damage occurred ... and to assign a reason ... especially since in my MI.. i did a lot of fall planting ... one thing for sure.. as the plants aged .. over the years ... the more established the plant became.. the easier they could overcome the effects of winter ... and one very important thing in all that.. was that the plants went into winter.. full of water ... in other words.. in prime shape... especially if it was a drought year ... and that is part of what i was getting at.. in my first reply ... the plants need proper watering.. with proper drainage.. late into fall ... but the media can not be holding so much water .. that you freeze the roots into an ice cube ... and yes.. DAS are carp plants ... over marketed and ridiculously cheap due to such .... perhaps you should stay with them.. keeping in mind.. that they are semi disposable ... just replace them every few years ... due to your location issues ... i suspect some winters you will win.. and others you will lose.. and that is simply the odds you are going to have to accept... in your situation .... ken