Nothing kills them on living plants. The soap and neem oil only helps a little. Once infested it's best to rid the plant so it doesn't ruin the others. Perhaps bake your soil in the oven before planting anything to kill the bugs and eggs. Wrap aluminum foil around large mulch pieces and have that on top of containers around the plant... they are discouraged by this. Learn plant combos.... basil and mint planted with tomatoes discourages them. You just have to be careful and look into if mint planted too closely to some other type of veggie harms it. They don't like cat nip... you can plant that in a separate pot and have it near... some flowers they hate.

I posted my little seedlings maybe a week ago... I'm not sure, but I thought I would update some of the pics here... The first is my Black Simpson. Multiple true leaves. I have these under 24/7 light. The first 3 pics are of Black Simpson. The last 3 are of my Mesclun Mix... 2nd image shows really cool looking true leaves and they are littered throughout the plot. Shouldn't be long now. The other 2 pics just show general growth. Thanks and enjoy!!! ~ HFG

Love the indoor grow-light gardens, especially since we've already been down as low as -10C/14F, so if it wasn't for indoor gardening now, I wouldn't be doing any gardening at all. Those peppers were just planted 33 days ago?... wow, that's impressive. I started my indoor winter peppers in mid-July (Nagas) and mid-August (some unknown Thai-type), and the plants aren't much bigger than yours, though I do have lots of peppers set (very green, nowhere near ripe). I grew mixed-greens inside a few years ago (spinach, lettuce, etc) in a big tray... I did get several salads from it but didn't think it was worth repeating. I have never tried radish or celery indoors. Parsley does fantastic under fluorescent lights (I have 2 pots of it now)... basil is another grow-light success story you should try (I have Thai basil growing now, but every kind of basil I've tried under lights has done well).

kawaiineko_gardener(5a): "I also know there are high pressure sodium lights, which I'd like to avoid using; the setup just sounds too difficult and complicated for me to do indoors at my house; you need special fixtures for high pressure sodium which would be difficult for me to find and set up." For that capricious self imposed constraint, you will be spending much more on electricity. It is very easy to buy HPS bulbs, ballasts and sockets online. You might have a 10' x 10' room with the walls, ceiling and floor painted white with a 1000 watt HPS bulb without reflector at the center of the ceiling. It would be better but unnecessary to also include a 400 watt MH bulb. urban_will: "Should I switch over to two blues on each shoplight instead?" The most important reason to include blue light is that it helps plants develop pigments that protect them from sunburn when planted outdoors. Another reason to include blue light is that, along with red (as opposed to far red) it helps de-etiolate plants, i.e., makes the stems shorter. But, blue light is less photosynthetically active than red light therefore, if you have no problem with sunburn or long stems, it would be counterproductive to increase the blue light. Incidentally, you should realize that there is the least justification for including green light because it is less photosynthetically active than red or blue light and it plays no role in photomorphogenesis. Most modern fluorescent bulbs contain a mixture of three phosphors, one for red, one for green and one for blue. It costs a manufacturer almost nothing to replace the green phosphor with more red and/or blue phosphor, thereby replacing the green light with more red and/or blue light, But, in the few cases in which this has been done, the manufacturer charges a much higher price than for a white triphosphor bulb. The typical price for a single phosphor red or blue 54 watt T5 bulb is about $20, whereas the price of its white counterpart is about $3. And, because of this price gouging, people like you are inappropriately calling cool white "blue" and warm white "red".