You're right - Gina was holding the camera for that video, as you can tell from her voice, which is the most prominent. I have a lot of raw video with other demonstrations that I have not had time to get around to editing yet. I don't even have my sewing room completely organized yet for video editing, although the computer I use for video editing is already set up there - along with two sewing machines, which have been getting a lot of use lately. When I finish making all the drapes, curtains, pillows, and cushions that I need, I will convert the room to a video editing room. Unfortunately, it is too small to be both simultaneously. I'm still in the process of settling in, and I guess it's going to take a full year. Lars

Ok, I misread your post on the other thread a bit. I was confused by the word logs, I incorrectly assumed you meant literal logs with bark still attached, but now I think you mean hand-hewn (with visible adze or tooling marks) timber framing members. One of the reasons for the wide spacing is that large, often hand-hewn, beams are so massive they don't need to be spaced so closely together to be structurally sound. So don't assume the floor defects are only because the logs are too far apart. With framing members like that you are most likely talking about a timber-framed building that was fit together with mortices and tenons and all held together with wooden pegs or trenails. Very nice and very sturdy; and more important to you maybe, utterly dissemblable and moveable. Whack or drill out the pegs and the pieces can be taken apart, generally without damage. I get the impression your building is in the Mid-Atlantic area, but there are some good books on timber-frame construction that though geared to the NE, would give you some clues. A quick sketchy recall of some titles: Big House, Little House, Back House, Barn; The Impecunious House Restorer and one other with a lot of info, but mainly about Canadian timber frame buildings, but whose title I can not dredge up. I am away from home for several weeks, but would look those up for you when I get back if you haven't turned them up sooner. Work on timber framed structure requires somebody who knows what they are doing. And vigilance when subs are working there so they don't compromise the structure while installing modern services. My own house is framed with 14 X 14 oak pieces, and all timber framed (as are all six of my two-story barns). Remarkable structures, and all bearing the marks of careful handworking, with each piece marked with a Roman numeral indicating which rafter, joist, etc., it was in the assembly sequence. You can look for these marks with a raking flashlight beam. Do you have any contemporary reports of the sequence and provenance of the structure's present form? I know I've been told a lot of total twaddle about by well-meaning, local, semi-experts about the which part of my house came first. It was only when I went back to contemporary public records that I finally winkled out the truth. Timber-frame buildings are relatively easy to disassemble and move, compared to modern structures. And making them was highly labor intensive so wasting an unwanted building was unthinkable. Molly~

What sylvielou said. A floating floor needs expansion space at the edges- usually covered by mopboard or quarterround molding. IF the island is fixed to the floor, you'll need to install the floor around the island, and leave an expansion gap covered with quarter round or other trim around the island. If it's a furniture-like island, it can rest on the laminate, no problem. It's just like a couch. Also, there's a maximum span for laminate that's like 30 feet. So if you have an open plan house with a large expanse of floor, there might need to be a transition strip in the middle of the room to allow sufficient room for an expansion gap. This may be ugly. Be sure to ask any installer about it.

Hi Estreya: I have five cats and one male sprayer named Elvis. I had Elvis on antidepressants for about three years. The vet changed from Amitryptilin to Paxil. They just kept upping the dosage and it never did ever stop his spraying completely. He was just doped up all the time. I finally hated seeing him look so out of it and took him off of them completely. Yes he still sprays, but not near as much as he did in the past. I have no idea why that is. He is 11, so I guess I will be dealing with this for a couple more years, but I am used to it and have become quite the cleaner because of it. LOL! I tried the Feliway spray when it first came out. I would have to spray the whole house because he would just spray somewhere new. It was a bit rediculous and costly. I am lucky that now in the house we have lived in for the last four years he has more room and is keeping his spraying to one room in the basement. We have cement floors that I sealed thank goodness, but like your problem we had the cheap base boards. We took them off cleaned the area replaced with new cheap base boards and this time I sealed around the top of the base boards with caulking. We now keep the door closed, but the odor is gone. It was just absorbed into the baseboards not the drywall because I had painted the wall all the way to the floor before we installed the first base boards. I really don't think there is any product out there that will get the urine smell out of carpet padding though. The enzyme cleaners like you are using are the only option for cutting some of the odor though. I use a Hoover steam cleaner on my carpet. It is the best investment I have made for my house and my sanity. LOL! I am with you about putting in hardwood floors and ditching the carpet. Go for it! If you do decide to put your cat on an antidepressant ask your vet to prescribe it in a compounded form. It is basically a cream form you rub on the outside of the ear and it absorbs into the skin. Pilling a cat is no fun as you probably know, so just to save you and your precious cat from a stressful situation go for the cream form. I also used a liquid form and it was a mess. If you ever have to have someone else watch your cat it is much easier for them to put cream on the cat's ear than pill it. LOL! Sorry this is so long, but I feel your pain. We love them so much we will do about anything for them. One more thing you might try is putting a second litter box in the room she seems to be spraying in the most and see if she will use it instead of spraying. My male cats sprays in his litter box also. LOL! I know that is not very appealing having a litter box in your living areas, but it might do the trick. Just make sure it is a hooded one to keep the smell in. I clean my three litter boxes twice a day and I have used the attract cat litter. It is pretty expensive for three litter boxes and I am not certain if it did any good, but it is always worth a try. Boy have I worn your eyes out yet? Sorry this is so long. :) Good luck tomorrow. Let us know how it all goes.