Al, Thanks so much again for your help. I could not seem to track down the Fafard51L or 3 but found 52, which I believe has 60% pine bark vs. the 40% in #3 and is closer to the 51L but with wetting agent ?) Which I am hoping is okay...the creepy crawlies were taking over and I felt I had to do something... So I repotted the tree (sadly I managed to lose even more leaves in the process as I clearly am not as skilled as you) I washed virtually all the existing soil away from the roots and used the 52 So you had been kind enough to offer assistance with things I can do to limit the soluble salts in the soil and I am all ears... If its not included in that advice...I also am guessing I could use some advice on how much to water for the container size...and when and if to fertilize (the diameter at the top is 15.5" and its about 14" high) I guess I also have the same initial question... which is assuming my soil is okay now... and I water appropriately... any guess as too how soon I should see improvement and when should the awful brown spots go away??? I'm not sure why I'm having such a hard time with this guy... my ficus benjamen has been happy as a clam for over 3 years and 2 repottings.... sigh, and I thought alli was supposed to be easier! Thanks again!

It sounds like some of your neighbors have been growing runner beans. The flowers are very attractive to bees, which will cross-pollinate them from a great distance. Your "sports" are most likely crosses. There are many white flowered / white-seeded runner beans, such as "Emergo", "Pole Cannelini", "Bond's Orcas Lima", and "Jacks Bean". "Painted Lady" has bi-colored flowers, and white & brown seeds. "Tocomares Chocolate" also has bi-colored flowers, with seeds that are all brown, or brown & white. You can see a photo of "Tucomares Chocolate" blossoms in the Pole Bean Spacing thread on this forum. Chances are that one or more of these has crossed with your runner beans, especially if you grew one of them in the past. My guess would be "Painted Lady", since it is fairly popular. Seed Savers Exchange offers it.

Danny Clark, I do not know the plant well enough to be specific; but the evidence (about 400 plants) suggests an intensive operation. It is easy for a fungus (my guess) to proliferate under such conditions. That you have had to cull 50 plants indicates an infection that has taken hold. My suggestion is to positively identify the causative organism; separate the remaining plants into 3 well defined areas. Space them adequately to facilitate air circulation. Classify them as "Good" "Going" and "Gone". Obtain a chemical (I cannot think of an alternative) which targets the pathogen/pest and,as a bonus, also lists the site (Boxwood) on the label. Apply to all three groups at the curative rate. Thereafter, apply at varying intervals to each group. The worst affected group can be treated at the shortest interval; and the "Good" group at the longest interval. Observe at weekly (at the very least) intervals; shift plants from one group to another as you see appropriate; and cull - ruthlessly! I wish you luck - sincerely! Because I know from experience, that you will need some of that also.

These plants are survivors, very tough if given proper care. I was given one that was over water for how knows how long. It started dropping leaves, I was careful with water it drooped more leaves , I then removed it from the pot washed all soil off and removed all the rot I could. It was left with one small piece of root. I repoted it and babied it watering only when the top of the soil dried out. It not only survived but I have taken many cuttings off of it over the years.. Don't give up on it is my point. All of what I said above happened in January, the worst time of year to try and save a plant from such dire circumstances. As Dave asked: what exactly do you mean by repot? Did you look at the roots? Change the soil?