Al, Thanks so much again for your help. I could not seem to track down the Fafard51L or 3 but found 52, which I believe has 60% pine bark vs. the 40% in #3 and is closer to the 51L but with wetting agent ?) Which I am hoping is okay...the creepy crawlies were taking over and I felt I had to do something... So I repotted the tree (sadly I managed to lose even more leaves in the process as I clearly am not as skilled as you) I washed virtually all the existing soil away from the roots and used the 52 So you had been kind enough to offer assistance with things I can do to limit the soluble salts in the soil and I am all ears... If its not included in that advice...I also am guessing I could use some advice on how much to water for the container size...and when and if to fertilize (the diameter at the top is 15.5" and its about 14" high) I guess I also have the same initial question... which is assuming my soil is okay now... and I water appropriately... any guess as too how soon I should see improvement and when should the awful brown spots go away??? I'm not sure why I'm having such a hard time with this guy... my ficus benjamen has been happy as a clam for over 3 years and 2 repottings.... sigh, and I thought alli was supposed to be easier! Thanks again!

Danny Clark, I do not know the plant well enough to be specific; but the evidence (about 400 plants) suggests an intensive operation. It is easy for a fungus (my guess) to proliferate under such conditions. That you have had to cull 50 plants indicates an infection that has taken hold. My suggestion is to positively identify the causative organism; separate the remaining plants into 3 well defined areas. Space them adequately to facilitate air circulation. Classify them as "Good" "Going" and "Gone". Obtain a chemical (I cannot think of an alternative) which targets the pathogen/pest and,as a bonus, also lists the site (Boxwood) on the label. Apply to all three groups at the curative rate. Thereafter, apply at varying intervals to each group. The worst affected group can be treated at the shortest interval; and the "Good" group at the longest interval. Observe at weekly (at the very least) intervals; shift plants from one group to another as you see appropriate; and cull - ruthlessly! I wish you luck - sincerely! Because I know from experience, that you will need some of that also.

I'm a newcomer to gardening in general. Very invested in this fig tree. Bought it back in June (see pic one), when I made the gritty mix, pruned the roots and reported it. I use Dyna-grow, about a quarter to a half teaspoon per gallon, and water regularly. Was watering every other day or so but now it's cold (I'm in Boston) and I'm watering much less frequently. The tree has flourished (see pic two)!! Thank you Al!! Im about to leave on a two week vacation, and two things made me curious and concerned. In pic three, I show the new leaf that is having issues. Never seen this happen before. When the leaf was budding a stronger wind knocked the tree over, and I have assumed that is what damaged the new leaf. What should I do about this? I'm assuming the holes will never grow together. Secondly, I have been noticing the brown edges of the leaves in pic four more since I recently rotated the plant. Are these cause for concern? Do they indicate anything I need to adjust? Or just light deprived, runty leaves? Last thought- my tree (which is actually two trees) is looking a little rangey. I was thinking of letting it grow even more before pruning but maybe I should prune come spring. Any advice on supporting it and keeping it harmonious? Does it seem too big for its container already?? These are just things that run through my head. I adore this forum and am grateful for any advice! Gritty mix has made me a successful gardener!!! It's amazing.

Hot lips is in a soil mix with bark, peat, and perlite. It is actually a fast grower for me. It has put out several leaves and vines since i got it a couple months ago. It has not bloomed. Denise i dont think the spots wipe off but i will try and get back to you.