Scott: I can't find any place on the tree where the limbs are attached where there may have been a graft ... what should I look for ... a 'ring' or something? Others: No, the tree is growing from the initial tree sent (not from the root or bottom).. hasn't died back at all. As for soil, nutrients, etc. the younger dwarf Fuji next to it has bloomed fine & setting a good apple crop this year. And yes, I pruned the ends of the branches back quite a bit late last summer of the '5-in-1'. I'm ashamed to admit I did order this from one of the nurseries people complain about, but not being available locally (a 5-in-1) & fairly cheap, I 'bit'! In the past I have occasionally gotten some decent things (bare root) from them but then again .. my 'fruit-less 5-in-1 and "Pole" apple trees! The tag I have on it says I got it from Burgess Nursery. Of course they say it no longer is under warranty & I need to fertilize, more water, etc, etc. The tree is very healthy ... but then- it has not been stressed by an apple crop either !!!ha A ?Haralson Pole apple from Guerney's in 1991 IS a pole apple but the ?McIntosh Pole apple from Guerney's is the one that is tall & very wide -NOT a pole apple for sure! We have paid a lot for trees from Sandy Bar & Van Wel Nurseries & got great trees & they both were wonderful companies to deal with (wanted some of the dwarf varieties of Cameo apple, Weeping Santa Rosa plum that were hard to find)so I guess again: you get what you pay for! Now to find the chain saw & cut some nice apple wood to dry for the fireplace next winter :(

If you just planted it, unless you paid BIG bucks for a tree that is 5-8 years old, you probably got one that is 2-3 years old. They don't normally flower until they are 5-8 years old, depending on their living conditions. You will get flowers when it is old enough and big enough. If it is of a size that normally flowers, it may just need a year to settle in, and you will get flowers next year. Just look after it well: water deeply, for the equivalent of an inch of rain per week, for the first year and during dry spells the next year; don't over feed it; and mulch it - no more than 4" deep, out to the dripline at a minimum, further is good, and no mulch in the 2-4" next to the trunk, using hardwood mulch or pinestraw.

Just some additional thoughts. What is the outlet from the bio wheel filter.. ie the flow. Too high a flow can ravage their fins tissue which is a single cell thin. (I use sponge to slow it down or silk plants attached to outlet). Also, they can handle lots of salt during treatment, and adding 1/2 to one teaspoon per 10 gallon helps to keep them (my experience) free(er) from bacteria. It needs to be added slowly over time though. They have been so inbred that they are not at all as hardy as when I was younger and in my opinion need extra care. Plus the way they are shipped in a few teaspoon of water so on, they arrive highly stressed in medicated water. So, prone to bacteria. I have found that salt water dips, (aquarium salt of course) each day and fresh water changes helps a lot. I rescued bettas (ok did one more lately) and use to use meds but the salt water workes best even with the extremely hard to rid flexibar columinaris (which looks like stringy fungus but is bacterial). Or you can use a gram positive and gram negative med plus the salt. Use your hospital tank so as not to hurt plants, bio load. Take out all plants, salt treatment will kill. Use soft silk (large leaves better as they like to sit on or hide under when asleep).. Use 1/2 to 1 teaspoon per gallon for hospital tank, then each day tank him out with tub (plastic container and cover so he won't jump).. I lower lights place towel over container, (inside of larger incase he does jump) Then I slowly dribble additional salted water for a soak, while I clean his main tank. I have had fish recover nicely from this, but it took some work. Melefix will help with healing tissue after bacteria gone. I have found they can handle much larger salt loads, but am hesitant to suggest this, just watch for stress, ie frantic swimming. And go slow slow slow. Then reverse with his fresh (adjust to match) clean tank water until equal and gentle place him back in. I never use nets just cup them gently in containers. (there are pros and cons on salt but I've used it since I was a kid many decades ago, per Dr. Innes and no problems and much help. Has to be used properly though). ........................... from a forum The simple answer is that bettas do not like much salt in their water. Bettas will tolerate a certain amount of salt in their water; however, there is a limit. Salt will change the flow of water due to a change in the concentration. All fish will tolerate salt to some degree, but when there's too much they will dehydrate due to water flowing out of the creature. Saltwater fish have kidneys that allow them to expel excess salt while retaining their water. Freshwater fish do the opposite - they expel water because of the concentration gradient. When using salt, you should use it for specific problems or needs. If you don't know when it's right, do some research. For example, FishEnthusiast.com notes that: "Salt puts electrolytes in the water that stimulate production of the mucus coating that protects fish from infection. At the same time, it alters the chemical balance of the water, usually increasing the pH. Salt also helps inhibit bacterial growth at least the kind that seem to cause algal blooms in freshwater aquariums." Salt assists in the healing of injuries, promotes formation of slime coating, improves gill function, reduces the buildup of nitrite (useful when setting up new tanks: 1/2 ounce of salt per gallon), and is effective against some parasites. However, it is a double-edged sword; there are also some downfalls. For example, some plants and fish species cannot tolorate salt. This yet another reason you should do a little research before treating a problem. It is NOT advised to use salt with scaleless fish, particularly cordydoras. These species are particularly sensitive to salt, and even a small amount can harm them. Also, tetras are fairly sensitive to salt. More useful information regarding salt: Salt in a Freshwater Aquarium Re: feeding, in nature when animals are really sick they often don't eat, much as people don't. The body is working immune system wise to repair and has more resources then you can imagine. But since you mentioned that he came alive with worms seems he might have been finicky (as they often are at first). Remember their stomachs are as small as their eyes. It is easy to overfeed, esp with dry food as it swells inside when wet. A small amount will do it. I feed a few pinchs of flake, chaning types for variety (live brine shrimp when I can find them, and Hakiri sterilized blood worms, as the live and non Hakiri always caused bacterial problems with any fish that ate them. They are grown in sewage like conditions and freezing does not kill the nasty bacterial or parasites. Hence Hakiri is three times sterilized (forgive my bad spelling). I feed a bit of vegetable matter in late afternoon to provide a purging of earlier meaty meal.)

Hi, ldj, I live near Dallas, "just up the road"! I never cut anything back until it has withered & turned brown & given up the ghost, & I *never* cut iris foliage; that foliage is drinking up sunlight to store energy for next year's flowers. If you're going to transplant, just count 6 months past the bloom time. If your irises flowered in April, the best time to move them is October. I almost never manage to get the transplants done exactly when I'm supposed to, but iris are very forgiving, & they transplant fine. If you move them too near to their next bloom season, say, in March, they don't have time to recover, & you'll lose a season of flowers. don't know of an iris nursery or seller in the Austin area, but you might check out Argyle Acres, a mail-order iris farm north of the Dallas area; their plants are well-acclimated to our weather & conditions. I always try to go to the Ft Worth Iris Society's sale at the Botanic Garden in September or October; a lot of iris breeders/growers/hobbyists have good healthy rhizomes for sale there. & of course you can get excellent advice & help & maybe some shared plants by joining a local garden club or iris society. Best luck, & enjoy your irises!