I grow mainly indoors, and I grow mainly bulbs... I also grow mainly in a rendition of the Gritty Mix. I have found that before I mix a batch, I need to soak the bark a bit so it's moist. If I do this, and I make sure I'm in keeping with the concept of the medium with regard to particle size, screening, etc... I have no issues following a re-pot. Also, aftercare is very important... ensuring that the plant has a good opportunity to adjust to it's new medium out of direct sunlight and winds. But if I fail to pre-wet the bark, or keep in mind the concept of the medium and aftercare, I'm doomed to failure. I found that there's no cheating when it comes to good preparation of the ingredients, using the right ingredients, proper aftercare, and that my habits in watering and fertilizing would change. I'd be watering more often, and feeding on a more consistent basis. One other thing I found is that not every plant will enjoy the Gritty Mix. There are a few that are happier in more moisture retentive circumstances... so I adjust for this using medium that more closely resembles the 511, or by adjusting the ingredient ratios or using different ingredients, creating a custom medium for the plant in question. Ambient temperature is a consideration in certain climates, too. Growing indoors, I keep pot edges from touching the window glass, and keep leaves off the glass, too. My preference is unglazed clay, though I do use a few plastic pots for certain plants more sensitive to temperature or moisture retention. One of the biggest mistakes I made in the beginning was not watering enough, and not ensuring the bark was pre-soaked prior to mixing batches of medium. But if I'm honestly doing everything exactly as directed, I have no issues, whatsoever. I think the keys are in understanding the concept, not taking any short cuts, adjusting my care habits, and understanding the limitations of my unique environment and those of the particular plant I'm trying to grow.

Winter is a great time of year to make these design decisions because it's when the 'bones' or, in your case, lack thereof, of the garden are revealed. Perennials are my favorite thing to add to the garden and I've been guilty of jumping ahead of myself to get them in. In reality, they should be the LAST thing that goes in. Perennials should fill in the spaces between the permanent bones. Bones can be evergreen shrubs, and architectural feature, boulders etc. Basically, it's what's left when the foliage of the perennials dies back. So, the first thing you need to add are things with permanence- such as the mini conifers you mentioned and perhaps some 2x2 rocks, buried 1/3 into the ground so they look more natural. The conifer forum has TONS of information on mini-conifers. Warning: they will get you hooked on them! As far as deciduous shrubs go, look for 2 things- foliage color and form/texture. I'm guessing your perennials are mostly the same shade of green on the foliage? Add some shrubs like 'Mello Yello' Spirea or 'Burgundy Carousel' Barberry which will bring in some leaf color. If you want a butterfly bush, choose 'Silver Anniversary' or 'Harlequin' which is variegated. Consider a 'My Monet' Wegelia which has a very compact form and stunning green-white-pink leaves in addition to dark pink blooms. For a columnar plant (7' H by 2' W) consider 'Fine Line' Buckthorn. It has ferny, glossy green leaves and is sterile (some forms of the plant are considered invasive in some areas). If you have any big, green shrubs or non-flowering shrubs you want to liven up, plant a clematis to ramble through the shrub and give it more interest. Grasses are a must for texture. Black Mondo grass or 'Lemon Zest' carex provide some serious front-of-the-border color and texture while Pennisetum 'Hameln' gives a faint glow. Bronze carex gives an odd orange-brown color. A Miscanthus 'Zebra' provides some tall filler for the back of the border and 'Karl Forester' Feather Reed Grass is stately and wonderful paired next to other 'prarie' plants like Rudibeckia, Echinacea, Agastache or Helenium. I hope that helps.

what is the problem with b&b? ===>>> first off... most of us.. do not have a husband who has very large machines .. to move these things around... lol ... i 6 foot BB... can weight.. 200 to 300 pounds.. you arent going to be hoiking that size things.. out of the car pictured above ... its no real problem getting them into the car ... and i often joke with the burly young men loading it at the nursery.. if they are willing to follow me home to get it out ... even if you have them delivered to the driveway .. moving them a couple hundred feet across the yard.. can be a lumbar disc killer ... sans heavy equipment ... now.. a large BB was field grown ... and if .. as it is said.. a tree is twice as big below as above ground... and you dig up a 6 foot tree .. with at most a 2 or 3 foot rootball.. you should be able to conceptualize ... that a vast majority of the root mass is cut off ... and since no one can see into the ground.. there is some loss.. simply because the digging itself causing severe root loss ... so.. based on all the above ... i would never go.. about a 3 footer ... and do be prepared.. that once you sink the roots ... it might only be a 2 footer.. lol ... so when i say 3 foot .. i mean the tree part ... its all about the stress you are applying to the plant ... thru digging .. transporting.. and planting.. and the larger the plant.. the larger the stresses involved ... i highly recommend you call your COUNTY extension office .... and ask them about their suggestions for your COUNTY ... that is a good way to start with LOCAL opinion .. feed us back that knowledge .. and we can go from there ... i even found out.. they had a tri-county forester on staff.. and though it took a few weeks, he eventually visited and offered many opinions ... and also ask if they have any spring plant sales.. my MI soil conservation dist offices sell 1 to 2 foot trees and conifers for a buck or two .... this is a good way to plant a lot of stuff .... on a low budget .... and do understand.. there really is no instant gratification in this project ... one thing you really need to get thru your head though.. is that this is not suburbia .... and this is not a one year project ... i would suggest.. with the scope of what you are trying to accomplish.. a min of 5 years.. to get this done ... coffee buzz is kicking in.. and my eyes are vibrating.. no chance to reread the above.. lol... gotta go .. perhaps do a couple laps around the acreage ... lol ken

Thank you all so very much! You know, I was away for several days and when I returned, I was astounded to find that my rosemary is now actually really perky looking with lush looking blue green needles and the first ever signs of new growth! I must say, that MG Moisture Control potting mix has been delivering some pretty amazing results for me so far. As for what you all have advised, yes you're right - time to leave it alone now and let it build a good root system. Hopefully I'll be successful with keeping it alive over winter so that next year I can start harvesting some of it.