The leaf says your tree is suffering from chlorosis, usually caused by a nutritional deficiency. If available where you are I would recommend a citrus labeled fertilizer, if not use a fertilizer recommended for Camellia. The spots on the leaves are a fungus and have to do with the environment should not become a serious problem. Fungus gnats in the soil are easily controlled with BT. Available as mosquito larvae control. I would stop using what you are now. Al

All of Walmart's F&E's are crap. I checked out a few different locations and they were all the same. Only worth $15 if you want to grow and overwinter in a pot for several years before planting... For what it's worth, you'd be better off at a Kmart since theirs looked a bit better. Just make sure to get there before the employees ruin the stock themselves - I recently saw an employee use a table full of 3-gallon Summer Lace's to lay out watering equipment (on TOP of the hydrangeas!)...

It looks like a fungal infection called leaf spots, caused by too much humidity and-or overhead watering. I would try to control it by making the environment less humid and using good cleaning practices. There is no way to control humidity from storms but you can control waterings by making the sprinkler water early in the mornings. If you do overhead watering by hand, you can water the soil instead early in the mornings. If your mulch is often moist or wet, you are watering too much. You can switch to water when a finger inserted to a depth of 4" feels almost dry or dry. Separate shrubs from each other to improve air flow, which will reduce humidity levels. You can also throw in the trash plant debris found under the bush, replace the mulch with new mulch when more than a third of the leaves are affected, dispose in the trash all the dried out blooms and dried out leaves in the Fall. You can also try to use fungicides but they can be expensive and we are so close to the end of the growing season (when the leaves dry out anyway) that it is a toss as whether one should apply it or not. I guess if you have a considerable number of leaves infected, you should replace the mulch (it is probably full of spores) and spray sulfur-based fungicides on the leaves (top and bottom) as well as in the stems. If you have an organic regimen in your garden, consider applying a copper fungicide. Affected leaves will not be cured back to all green by fungicides. A drip irrigation system can help reduce this problem too. Note: in order to minimize spread of the fungal infection, it is best to throw away in the trash the dried out leaves, not in the compost pile (if you have one). Do the same with the spent blooms when you deadhead (throw them in the trach). Luis

The brown spots appear to be common hydrangea leaf spots, sometimes a fungal infection called Cercospora Leaf Spot. See here for more info: http://www.aces.edu/pubs/docs/A/ANR-1212/ANR-1212.pdf Most of the time, this is caused by overhead watering. If you do this, try watering the soil instead and do it very early in the mornings. Clean up plant debris that may contain spores, discard leaves in the Fall on the trash and, if you can afford it and the problem is bad enough in your opinion, replace the mulch too. You can also apply fungicides and the article mentions some of them but they can be $$ expensive so I just follow those suggestions when it comes to the ones that I too have with leaf spot. I am not sure about the loss of leaves. Sounds mysterious since you have not mentioned anything that would account for that. Normally, this would require something like not watering it (the rootball dries out for example), winter damage or applying insecticides or fungicides to the plant or to nearby plants. Leaf spot can make the plant loose some of these leaves as they first appear to have the lesions and sometimes the leafs brown out and fall. But usually the infestation is not THAT bad. If Bluebird lost the leaves in this way then you may want to spray after all as that is kind of a big thing in my opinion. I normally see this issue on mine by late August or in September so this is kind of early. And I just live with the problem until the plant goes dormant in December. Then I carefully cut the leaves off without touching the stems (invisible 2016 Spring flower buds will usually be near the end of the stems).