I can't help much - I have three and grow all three in different mediums. Milt. clowesii is mounted on a cork mount and watered daily. One NOID is growing in a CHC mix and is watered about every five days and another Milt. Snow Lady with award titles after it's name and it grows in a clay pot in sphag. I received that plant from the grower in the sphag and have kept it that way. It is watered every third or fourth day, depending. The clowseii bloomed for a couple of months this summer, the NOID is in full bloom right now and awarded one has gone from one bloomed out growth to three new growths. I grow all of these in the cool end of the G/H under fairly bright light. The clowesii was the only one I had when I grew under lights and it was potted then. I think if you check the cultural sheets they recommend potting after the season has started to cool down rather than stress it during the heat of summer. Brooke

This is a difficult question to answer, Think jigsaw puzzle, when we did our rockwork, we laid the largest flat pieces on the bottom, then as we built up we kept trying pieces one at a time until they fit and looked right to us. Sometimes we had to add some dirt to make the rocks fit to our liking. Each row we did was slightly back from the one below and they were all staggered so the gaps didn't line up and no real jutty pieces were sticking out over the row below. It was slow work for us as we had never done this before. The same thing when we built our little waterfall for the Koi pool, I mean puddle, it was a struggle, I kept saying it doesn't look right, DH got annoyed and left in a huff, I kept at it until I was happy with it. All this is probably as clear as mud. LOL Back to what I first said think jigsaw puzzle. Take your time, you will get it just the way you want it. I know you can do it. By the way you've got some cool rock there. A......

OK, I'm back with more exciting pictures! First, so it doesn't get lost below -- marcolo -- I read installation instructions for a different one of these shower kits to get an idea of how they are installed, and they said do NOT use 100% silicone caulk. I don't know why. Also, it said NOT to caulk the interior where the frame base meets the pan, only the exterior seam. Why is that? Before I ripped this out, it was caulked (and coming loose) on both sides. Anyway, I decided to partially disassemble the shower frame to get a better idea of what is going on and how to fix it. Here's where I am now: First, as you can see, the wall panel was not plumb when it was adhered to the wall. That would be, of course, because they didn't level the pan when they put it in, so when they lined the wall panel up with the pan, it ended up crooked. Duh. Pretty sure whoever installed this never heard of a level. A closeup view shows it even better. The jamb (metal frame part that was screwed to the wall) only barely overlapped the wall panel by the time it reached the bottom. The screws at the top of the frame went through the wall panel, while the screws at the bottom did not. The pan is badly out of level in all directions (the other wall is even more out of plumb, sigh). Now we can see the state of the drywall underneath the panel... ...and it is really not good. Crumbling drywall and scary black stuff (mold?) extends several inches up behind the wall panel. Here's a little drawing I did showing how the studs/drywall/shower wall come together -- or don't, as the case may be. The studs are badly out of plumb too. Easy to see how the slightest gap in the caulk inside the shower meant water getting under the edge of the shower wall panel and wicking up into the green board. Sooo....now I'm not sure where to go next with this. One thought is to cut away (from behind) the edge of the drywall that is sitting down inside the pan, and then insert some kind of extra flashing behind the wall panel so that any water that got behind it would not get any further. Another would be to cut away all of the damaged drywall (several inches) and patch it, adding flashing as in the first option -- again, this would be from behind. No, I don't exactly know how I would do that, but maybe there's a way to McGyver it. ;) I could try to remove the wall panel (it seems to come away from the green board pretty easily), replace the studs (they are not plumb either) and all the green board, and re-adhere the wall panel. The studs are only there to support the shower wall. This could help solve the fact that the wall flexes where it doesn't meet the studs. The risk of course is that I could break the wall panel, and then I'd really be in trouble. Also, I'm not sure how easy it would be to get just the one panel out without having to take the corner and the other panel as well. Removing only the one panel wouldn't address the other wall of the shower which doesn't seem to have leak problems (probably due to the slope of the pan and the fact that the shower head is on that wall) but I would not be surprised to find water damage to that side as well. And of course there's always the chance this is just a complete waste of time and I will have to bite the bullet and replace this shower kit with another. I don't think there's any way to get the pan leveled, and the fact that it's not level really throws the rest of the installation off. I'm not clear on whether removing and leveling the pan would mean having to do something with the drain height, which might be outside of my DIY abilities (though I do have a great plumber I could call). I'm just not too confident this shower can be made watertight enough to not leak into the room beneath. I haven't even shown the issues we have with the seal thingy at the bottom of the door, where water can easily leak out onto the bathroom floor, and I know that if a good bit of water ends up on the floor, that alone can mean a leak downstairs -- water that goes under the baseboard pretty much goes right on through the subfloor. Any advice at all would be very much appreciated. As is my usual habit, I decided to dig into this problem while my husband is out of town, and I'm going to be nobody's favorite person in my house if I don't restore this bathroom to working order pretty soon! (The other shower is in the basement, and none of us really likes using it -- plus it's the same shower kit and I'm betting it isn't installed any more accurately than this one was!)

Keep in mind, the lookback period for disbursing assets before going into long term care with the express intention of having the county or state pick up the tab is now 5 years. Little late for the OP to think about that advice. That being said, I've heard of those CCRC faculities - there was a large, some church affiliated one in the Maryland suburbs of DC. To get in, you turn over everything you own, including your house, and they take care of you until you die. The financial records, etc. are necessary for them to insure that your parents will always be in the category of "private pay" and their assets are enough to insure that the institution will never find themselves not being paid for their services. And also they want to know if the potential residents deliberately impoverished themselves by giving away assets within the last 5 years. In other words - if this is like the facility in Maryland - if you didn't have any money, you couldn't get into their facility in the first place. It would be a better deal if your parents were younger and in need of alternate living arrangements. It's the 260k deposit (not to mention the house which they would sell if your parents' expenses exceeded the $260k) that gives me pause though and I'd definitely want all my questions answered before making any commitments. If on death, any unused portion is returned to the estate of the deceased as opposed to being kept by the CCRC, well, that's fine. But you would want, and have every right to expect, an accurate and detailed accounting of every expense incurred - down to the last penny! On the other hand - my Mother was a private pay resident of an excellent long term care facility to the tune of approx. 5k per month. She was only there for 11 months and the tab was close to 60k altogether. However, she did not have to put up a deposit or sign over her house and assets - with her financial POA, we just had to write out one of her checks every month. Had I not taken care of her at home for the previous 5 years, her nursing home expenditures would have definitely approached the 250k plus mark. But again, her other income generating assets, Federal Employees survivor's pension, etc. were all available for her to be able to pay her own way. There's enough anxiety over having parents who can no longer live in their own homes - any undue anxiety over the money aspect of it all makes it worse, in my opinion. If they can't or won't answer questions to your satisfaction and you still have reservations - I'd say, look elsewhere.