ammonium sulfate
kc_in_wa
16 years ago
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luis_pr
16 years agokc_in_wa
16 years agoRelated Discussions
Ammonium Sulfate for citrus?
Comments (8)Hullo brown, Sorry no one responded so far but if it's not too late: usually for Ammonium Sulphate 1/4 per 2.5 gal once per week is fine, it's very easy to overfertilize with it since it contains so much N by weight, so best to start out with such a dosage. Bear in mind that's for container plants, so in ground something slightly higher (maybe 1/2 tsp) with lots of watering should be okay. I'll link a forum with some pictures of blueberry growth using that dosage ;) Regards, Dan Here is a link that might be useful: One and 7 yr blueberry growth with pictures...See MoreBlueberries - Ammonium Sulfate Question
Comments (7)Here is the guide I have used when determining how to apply ammonium sulfate. Product of Oregon State University. Some very good reading here and a great reference source. I have applied 1 ounce per plant sprinkled around the drip line last year and it worked fantastic, lots of vigorous growth. http://ir.library.oregonstate.edu/xmlui/bitstream/handle/1957/12202/ec1304.pdf?sequence=1 In late April of the planting year, apply 0.2 oz of nitrogen (N) per plant (equivalent to 1 oz of ammonium sulfate fertilizer, 21-0-0, or 0.4 oz urea, 46-0-0). Add the same amount of N fertilizer in early June and in late July. Sprinkle the fertilizer evenly within 12 to 18 inches of each plant, but not directly on the crown or stems. Ammonium sulfate and urea fertilizers contain no phosphorus (P) or potassium (K). In general, home garden soils have sufficient P and K. In the second year, apply 0.25 oz of N per plant 1.2 oz of 21-0-0 or 0.55 oz 46-0-0) in April, May, and June. The total amount of N applied per plant will be 0.75 oz. Spread fertilizer evenly around the plant, over an area approximately equal to the spread of the bush. Try not to apply fertilizer to the base of the canes. In year 3, increase the total fertilizer N applied to 0.8 oz. Divide the total into three equal portions and apply one-third each in April (around bloom time), May, and June. In year 4, increase to 1 oz per plant. As the planting ages, slowly increase the total N applied to a maximum of 2.5 oz N per plant (12 oz of 21-0-0) in mulched plantings. Continue to split the total into three applications in April, May, and June. In general, you should not fertilize after July 1. Your visual assessment of plant growth and fruiting can help you know how much to fertilize. If the plants are growing well (10 to 12 inches of new lateral growth each year and new vigorous growth from the base of the bush), leaves look green, and yield is good, there�s no need to worry about whether plants are getting enough nutrients. This assumes, however, that you�ve pruned plants well. Added nitrogen fertilizer will not compensate for poor growth due to insufficient pruning. Check the soil pH every year or two, especially if growth is poor. If the pH is above 6, you can apply elemental sulfur to the surface of the soil or mulch to slowly acidify the soil and improve blueberry growth. Apply no more than 5.5 lb S per 100 feet of row (3 oz/plant). Higher rates will burn or kill blueberry plants. RM...See MoreCalculating mixing rate of ammonium sulfate for blueberries
Comments (69)Well the lady from the office called with the soil sample results, left a message with my wife today. Very interesting. I took 3 natural unaltered samples from the area I'm developing for blueberries, as well as 2 more much farther down the slope with different trees and soil. The three were pH: 4.62; 4.58; 4.77. The other two are: 4.76; 4.88. That sounds pretty damned perfect. They said the E.C. (I assume this is Electical Continuity) was 0.01. This is a new concept for me. But she said it means the citrus we grow there will need fertilizer. How about the blueberries? I imagine I'll need to be careful with the ammonia sulfate as it will lower the pH, and I may be in the unusual position of the pH being too acidic for blueberries. What's good cheap fertilizer I can buy for this location for blueberries? As a side, I slipped in 3 more samples from different locations: The area most of my blueberry plants are being temporarily held right now (5.42) ; nice looking large vegetable garden plot I made (6.19 with EC of 0.42); and my backyard (7.24). So everything looks to be right on track. I thought my backyard was interesting, as this is an old suburban area and there's a lot of concrete and gravel around and it must've leached into the soil. That's my guess anyway....See Moresulfur vs ammonium sulfate for acidifying
Comments (20)Drew51, I believe you're mistaken in your comment above regarding the interchangeability of "proton" and "hydrogen". I didn't mean to imply that at all. I agree, A proton and hydrogen are very different. Actually I was ribbing the other guys for just what you said. Sulfuric acid is the long term solution It takes calcium out of the equation making it unavailable for the most part in the form of gypsum. Gypsum as far as I know doesn't really break down and is certainly neutral. I agree I use rain water only for my blueberries, but because of the environmentalists craze, the rainwater is now neutral. I have to acidify rain water! My rainwater is 7.0. So I try not to add any calcium at all. Currently I collect enough rain water for my blueberries. Other plants get city water when I'm low. I always keep enough for the blueberries. It's going to rain tomorrow so everything gets' rain water today. My rain water probably doesn't have any carbonates, so I really don't need to acidify. But the ground has too high a PH. And even though my plants are in raised beds the surrounding ground pulls hydrogen ions out, and the decomposing compost uses them too, so the soil needs a constant supply of hydrogen ions, i.e. sulfuric acid. Last year I put enough sulfur in to get my raised bed to 4.5. I added no more acid, used rain water with no acid. This spring when i tested the beds they were 6.5!! So now I add hydrogen ions constantly. I want to be around 4.0 when winter hits as over the winter the ph will again slowly go up. All gardening is local, in my area, with my clay loam, and local PH of rain water, this is what I have to do to maintain a proper PH, your mileage may vary....See Moreego45
16 years agoluis_pr
16 years agoWendyB 5A/MA
16 years agoego45
16 years agoWendyB 5A/MA
16 years agojean001
16 years ago
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WendyB 5A/MA