Do you mean the pots to be individual table centerpieces? Unless it is one of the greenhouse or florist hydrangeas that are grown specifically as a flowering gift or houseplant, hydrangeas seldom bloom at a very young age or a size that would be suitable for a table centerpiece. You can certainly find small, 1G sized plants available at nurseries and garden centers in season but there is no guarantee that they will bloom unless you can see buds already present. And that's not all that common. Larger, more mature plants could very well produce blooms in time for your wedding but their size might make them awkward as a centerpiece. And starting them this spring from a cutting is pretty much a no-go for a flowering plant by August. A seed started plant is out of the question for several years. This may not be feasible in terms of economics but contacting a florist or garden center in your area who can order ahead and bring in the greenhouse grown plants in the appropriate size and in bud or bloom in time for the wedding may be your only guarantee. These plants are manipulated by the growers to bloom heavily at a very young age and small size and at virtually any time of the year you want.

It maybe helpful to know the exact kind of hydrangea you have. My experience with the long blooming hydrangeas are limited to Endless Summer, Blushing Bride, Annabelle and the Forever and Ever Red...for zone 3, I think Annabelle is the only one can handle the outdoor winters. In my hands, Blushing Bride is the one with the longest blooming season (zone 6b here, flowers from late May till Sept - and the blooms will age to red, green display in Oct..)...I have trouble to get Endless Summer to rebloom reliably...some yrs with a lot of blooms, some don't...Anabelle is a reliable bloomer and the flowers last pretty long - June thur Sept...FE red is very new to me and hard to judge this early...in Zone 6b, morning sun (8 to 11 am) is all my hydrangeas get...Annabelle can handle more sun, but it does get sunburn with the 100F Jersey summer in july/aug (you can forget ES, BB, FE hyrangeas under the mid summer noon time sun, the flowers will wilt and turn brown in no time)...I think your apartment setting is good for the likes of these hyrangeas, make sure you have pretty of water for these guys - very deep drenching twice a week should do the job..indoor temps should be fine for these hydrangeas...during winter, your hydrangeas will go into dormancy...you have to find a cold spot in the apartment to do that - temps around 40F would be perfect...this temp will be low enough for the dormancy to maintain, and high enough to avoid any kind of freezing of the flower/leave buds...you should ask your vendor what kind of hydrangea you have bot..if it is the florist forcing kind, i doubt the plant will bloom again for you this season regardless of your care..if you have bot the reblooming kind like ES, BB or FE, then cut off the wilted flowers, give it some morning sun, lots of mositure, feed it with a time release balanced fertilizer 10-10-10, you should see flowers thru the whole summer...btw...in zone 6b here, the hydrangeas are just waking up from their winter beauty sleep, all the blooming ones i see are in the florist, grocery shop or the big box Easter flowers...none of these belongs to the reblooming type...as I usually tell my friends about these forced bloom hydrangeas - keep the plant as long as the flowers are nice and blooming - then ditch it like any wilted, done with florist plants...they are not worth the spot in the garden.

We had one for valentines day that did the whole "crispy" thing as well. We decided to cut off the spent blooms and dying foliage and it was planted almost bare in march. It has responded well and is putting up a new flush of leaves. I doubt it'll bloom this year but we have other hydrangeas in similar locations that bloom regularly and we don't expect any differently from this one in a couple years. Plant it now and I'm sure you will have the same results. Just give it a good start with good soil with lots of organic matter (manure/compost) and a slightly sheltered location (depending upon the amount of heat you get). The more heat the more shade normally. But part shade is best for most. Good luck.

I think that the Hydrangeas that I overwinter do best if they're allowed to get very cold and very dormant during the winter. The times I put them into a too warm place they don't do as well. And they always want to send out flowers long before I'm ready. It's a funny sight to go down to a cellar and see this plant with white, bleached out foliage and flower in the late winter. It still will do OK, but not the best. I've always thought it must be the equivalent of keeping me up all night. I look pretty OK, but I'm not really OK. I'd keep them outside as long as I could and then try to find a place that was very very cold. I end up keeping mine all outside under cover of some sort. That's always worked best for me. If I have plants inside a cellar, say, I water very sparingly. Very. Hay