First off, it would be a good start to know where your garden is located, so people could actually give advice on transitional seasonal color effects that work in your zone. Bulbs might be a useful spring burst of color, and spring bulbs that reliably return each spring might rely more on basics such as more reliable daffodils and Muscari, which pretty much work across the country.Removing a portion of the lawn adjacent the existing foundation shrubs and adding a low growing ground cover and bulbs might be a good start. Lower growing spring or summer flowering shrubs could also be added as a foreground framing the existing shrubs at the house. Personally I think it would be more interesting to add a few larger growing mounding low perennials or arching flowering shrubs with ground cover out at the mailbox, rather than a bed of all one type of annuals, something like dwarf Spiraea or Weigelia or similar. If you did want annuals in that spot, something taller and lacier such as Cosmos or Cleome or Nicotiana would look good there. There are also plenty of useful summer flowering shrubs such as Hibiscus syriacus or Philadelphus, or spring flowering herbaceous perennials such as Paeonies or Oriental poppies that could be used for seasonal color. Perennial asters and chrysanthemums are classic fall color effects, along with shrubs that give fall color. As to tree placement, it would make more sense to look at tree locations based on views from the house as well as from the street. Framing the house at each side and again at the street seems very static and may not frame or screen views from the house or elsewhere in the front garden, nor give shade where it makes the most sense. Not enough information given to really help with tree placement, and in my opinion tree locations, sizes and types should be based on much more than just this one street view of the house. If you have a good local or regional botanical garden near you, they are almost always a good venue to get ideas of plant/tree choices for different seasons that actually work. Photoshopped photos may be a starting point to help you visualize possibilities, but aren't as good as seeing the real thing to know how it will actually look. I also notice that Yard's revised foundation planting scheme that emphasizes formal symmetry centered on the 3 front windows has inadvertently planted up your entry walk; something you won't likely want to do...

We had non stop rain for 2wks and now a week with out rain so i am actually watering right now. it is supposed to be hot and humid tomorrow. as for fertilizing, only once this year with miracle grow. Thanks for the nice comments. I guess I am being to hard on myself (sounds like something my hubby says to me - lol). I have done a few garden tours in my local area and just haven't seen much for roses so they seem like they just stick out. Here are a couple more views. I am in the process of ruthless yanking and moving stuff around, so it looks a little rough. the weigela is coming out, it hasn't done well the past couple of years and I think its finally showing its age. to the right is the morden blush. as I look at these pictures I think its the placement of the spirea I am not happy with and the potentilla is also coming out. Its very sickly looking. You have given me ideas. So, thanks for that. Hopefully later I can show you what I have done. I don't think I want to move the David Thompson, so is it ok to move the smaller roses now or should I wait till fall or early next spring? Jodi

If it's still in the pot and has dried completely out, watering it may only result in the water running around the rootball and out of the drainage holes. Try submerging the pot up to the brim in a tub or sink to rewet the rootball, you may have to hold it down until it accepts enough water to gain some weight. Let drain, then begin watering as needed to keep the soil sufficiently moist again.

Yellowgirl has it correctly. Sounds like Hydrangea paniculata. Yes, it is best to prune it at the end of winter, early spring...in zone 7 that would be late Feb. to early May. Pruning hard to within 12" of the ground would create long whips with big blooms on the ends that would probably flop about. Whereas is you leave some woody stucture on the plant and prune more lightly it will create more numerous and smaller blooms that don't flop so much. There are many selections of Hydrangea paniculata, most have upright forms in the garden ('Tardiva', 'Floribunda') and 3 or more have weeping forms.....H.p. 'Grandaflora', H. p. ' Webb's form' (selected in Montgomery, Ala. and happier in the south than Pee Gee Hydrangea) and 'Limelight' seems to also have the weeping aspect. All get large, to 12 or 15' tall if left unpruned. Otherwise, expect 5' to 7' with creative, selective pruning. Great plants. Very forgiving. Always bloom no matter what unstable weather throws our way.