Thanks ego, I remember you have those beautiful Tardiva Hydrangeas, They must be getting pretty mature. Appreciate the help. I was just out there this morning and decided to at least cut off the dead blossoms, so did that and cut to just above the node underneath the dead flower bloom. I wonder if I should wait and see where the buds become apparent and go back and trim it again to leave just two sets of viable buds on each branch? And since we're on the subject, having just planted this 'Pink Diamond' last fall, I wonder if I should consider adding Plant-tone around the base this spring or wait until next year?

Tree form may be a better description - relating to a plant grown with a single stem - as these plants are considered shrubs rather than trees. I have a number of hydrangea paniculata that I've grown into a tree form with the tallest being about 7 foot tall in mid summer growth - but I prune mine back every spring so I'm keeping them short. If not pruned annually, I would think the stems would be very prone to breaking. My experience with Pink Diamond is that it's a very vigorous grower with annual stem growth at least 3 foot. I see the same form with physocarpus opulifolius - Ninebark - being offered - especially Diablo. Marshall

Thanks everyone. After reading messages from previous posts, I think I may have caused this myself. I had read in our local paper that epsom salt 1 tbsp per gallon was wonderful for plants and I probably watered with it once. Hopefully I haven't killed it for good because green leaves are still coming on and the buds are getting larger and should bloom soon. WIsh me luck. Actually, this is the 3rd season. I ordered it as a tree but it forms only as a bush although it does get a little bigger each year. Thanks for your help. Sharon

'Pink Diamond' is a paniculata. It is very cold hardy (z3), blooms on new wood and is happy in as much sun as you care to give it. All in all, a freely blooming hardy hydrangea that can take some tougher conditions. If planting in clay soil, dig a wide, shallow planting hole, site the rootball so that it is slightly above grade and backfill with the soil removed (no amendments), creating a small mound. Any amendments you care to use should be applied as a mulch or topdressing around the planted rootball. Water in well and as often as necessary to keep the area moist (not wet).