RTG No, it doesn't look like SVB damage to me. I think it's a watering issue, though I don't know which issue it is! Maybe more information would help. At first I thought it might be overwatering, since that causes leaves to turn yellow. That's a possibility. You'll know how often you've been watering them, and they probably need a lot of water in the heat. But I notice you're in zone 9, so I suspect it's that small black container that's causing the trouble if you have it sitting in the hot sunlight all day. A dark container can literally cook the roots and destroy the plant. But I don't think yours is at that stage yet since the upper leaves still look healthy. I'm also growing squash plants (two of them) in five-gallon white containers with a large drainage hole, containers probably larger than yours (though it's sometimes hard to tell from a photo). I'm finding that they need water three times a day in this 90-degree heat, far too often for me to remember to do regularly. If I wait too long, the plants wilt and then the leaves sunburn, turn crisp, and die. (I don't think I'll grow them or any more cucumbers in a non self-watering container again because of their water needs.) They're producing plenty of blossoms and squash but they look a little naked with so many missing leaves! So, if that's the problem, what to do? First, I'd remove the yellowed leaves to prevent disease from vectoring there. And if it could possibly be done with very little disturbance, I'd transplant it into a much larger container that's light-colored to prevent the roots from becoming baked or root-bound and unable to take up water and nutrients. Keep them in the shade while they get used to their new home and start growing again. Don't fertilize them until they're growing again. If that isn't possible, all you can do is shade the container so it doesn't absorb the sun's heat and keep them well-watered. But if the container is as small as it appears to be, you'll need to water them several times a day, and even then you'll have to pray that they make it. If it's a problem with overwatering, that's easy to fix.

Well, my apricots still look okay. Some of them are a little oddly shaped but they all look solid and unwrinkled. One of my trees has a lot but the other one didn't set many. That's probably a lack of pollination since there weren't many bees out that early. The local winery said they have rather extensive damage on their grapes. Here is a link that might be useful: Frost wrecks havoc on Wllersheim vines

Thanks, dchall. In reading up on wireworms, I see that they are hard to beat with typical pesticides. Several posts/sites recommended ensuring that the pH is right in the soil so that you have happy grass that can withstand their presence. I still don't know if they are the "root" cause (pun intended). I do have a soil test from the local extension office, so I will follow their recommendations regarding fertilization. No lime was recommended, but phosphorus was excessive in the soil, so I will keep that in mind. Regarding mowing, this is what they recommend (I know we have put down Palmetto sod in several areas, but who knows what the original was): "St. Augustine grass performs best when mowed between 2 and 4 inches depending on the cultivar. The normal growth cultivars like Raleigh should be mowed between 3 and 4 inches, while the semi-dwarf growth habit cultivars such as Palmetto and Mercedes can be mowed between 2 and 3 inches. Begin mowing as soon as the lawn turns green in spring. Always leave the clippings on the lawn in a practice called 'grass-cycling'. If prolonged rain or other factors prevent frequent mowing and clippings begin to clump, they can be collected and used as mulch. Never remove more than ��" of the leaf tissue in any single mowing. For more information on mowing lawns refer to HGIC 1205, Mowing Lawns." Oh, they recommended lime in the backyard in early spring, so we have applied that. I'll wait until next weekend to see if we're ready for mowing. I'll update this post as things progress one way or the other. Thanks!

Hi Phil! In past years I've gone through boxes and boxes of mothballs and moth flakes to drive out critters. Sometimes sprinkling flakes on the lawn will drive the moles away. Sometimes they come back, sometimes they move over, sometimes it works. Same with mothballs. I have dropped them down chippie holes and most of the time they shove them right back up. If I put a stone on the hole entrance, they dig a new entrance just outside of the stone. Varmints! Drive me crazy!! My problem is largely of my own making. I don't let my cats outside anymore because I feed the birds, and because I feed the birds, the spillage attracts chippies, etc. ARGH!! If you have a small population, mothballs may work well for you. (Nobody with small children should use them, as they are highly toxic). I am considering buying a Have-A-Heart chipmunk cage (or two). I saw them at CountryMax garden store while I was buying more sunflower hearts for the birds (and chipmunks,duh) We have huge areas of park and forest land nearby...byebye chippies! Good luck with your mothball "treatments". ~Nancy