Obtaining Tiphia vernalis for biocontrol of Japanese Beetle?
lrobins
19 years ago
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Rosa
19 years agolrobins
19 years agoRelated Discussions
japanese beetle problem
Comments (21)I bought the Heterohabditis B./Steinernema Carpocapsae - Mixed Acre Size Pack-100 Million from Buglogical which says it treats 1 acre but upon reading information from several other sittes I determined this would treat 2 acres easily. And from what i have seen so far it has. This is a mix of nemetodes the HB attacks Cucumber Beetle, Grubs, Gall midge, Strawberry Rootweevil, May/June Beetle, Masked Chafer, Cranberry Rootworm, Flea, Scarab and Japanese beetles, Straw- berry Root and Black-vine Weevils, Chafer, Squash Bugs, Leaf Beetles, Termite, Cutworms, White Grubs, Algae Gnats, Black Fly, Potato Tubeworm, Meal Worm, Bark Beetle, Corn Root Weevil, Fire Ant, sting Bugs, Pine Beetle, Gall Gnats, Gypsy Moth, Corn Root Worm, Billbug, Colorado Potato Beetle, Thrips, Ants and termites (apply directly to mound and nest areas),and many other deep soil dwelling insects. The SC attacks Fleas, Dog and cat flea larvae, Codling Moth, Cutworm, Armyworm, Leafminer, Bluegrass billbugs, termites, ants, Sod Webworm, Mole Cricket, some caterpillar pests, Billbug, Flies, ArmyWorms, Loopers, European Crane Fly, Cranberry Girdler and many other surface dwellers. My husband did the application using a 4 gallon pressure sprayer. It took him about 6 hours to cover 2+ acres over 3 days (on 2 days he would do this about 1.5 hours before sunset and would quit when he could not see any longer, about 1.5 hours. The 3rd day it was raining so he went out spraying in the rain for 2 hours or so). It would have taken less time but he had to keep making new nematode mixtures each time he emptied the spayer and that took about 15 minutes each time. I believe we could have saved a lot of time by doing a premix, which should have worked as long as we used the mix up within a few hours. But since we took our time in applying a premix would not have worked well for us. Nematodes are not that hard to apply but they are fussy about conditions. It must be damp for weeks for them to work well and we have had nothing but damp cool conditions for months so they are working very well for us. If it were droughty I would not use them as they would not work at all....See MoreUse of fungicide and beneficials. Is there a middle ground?
Comments (19)Nancy, I have to spray off and on (fungicide only and I also use the Bayer product) during the spring and fall (humid, humid, humid here - but gets hot enough in the summer to suspend spraying, thank goodness). There is a lot of debate about this but in my experience, I haven't killed too many bugs, if any, good or bad, with fungicide. I have billions of thrips and aphids, much to my despair. I have millions of those beetles (from grubs) and they munch away quite nicely at my roses......it doesn't seem as if the fungicide has killed a single one of them, doggone it (I know I have looked around my flowers after spraying and I have never seen anything dead). The day after spraying, the thrips, aphids and beetles are all just as happy as if I hadn't done a thing. I have a lot of those large green spiders living on the plants (they come out a little later). The fungicide wouldn't kill just the good bugs and leave the bad, it would kill them all. And along with all the bugs that ruin my blooms, I have ladybugs and bees and bumblebees and butterflies and walking sticks and preying mantis and birds in abundance. And millions of earthworms and healthy soil and lots of sun and openness...BUT I also live in a climate that encourages BS in a major way at particular times of the year and I do like to have foliage to go with my flowers! Unfortunately, all my composting and organic fertilizers and other eco-friendly methods that I adhere to don't seem to mean much to the BS spores when the temp/humidity around here hits that ideal range for the disease's growth. So I reluctantly get out the sprayer and spray very carefully and as few times as I can get away with. I feel your pain with the thrip problem; they always ruin most of my lighter colored blooms and I just live with it - grrrrrrr. But I'm not going to surrender my garden, that I work so hard in, to BOTH bugs and BS. One of them has gotta go and I picked the fungicide as the lesser of two evils. Lynn...See MoreWill Neem kill midge?
Comments (33)"Some research indicates that sprays using Neem oil extracts, containing azadirachtin-A, are effective against this pest, particularly when applied to the soil, without being detrimental to beneficial insects. Other natural solutions, including the use of predatory nematodes, are currently being investigated." The above is from Canada: http://www.torontobotanicalgarden.ca/mastergardener/newforum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=39&p=93 ---------------------------------- Canadians have also stated in forums that Neem works: "Try calling any 'hydroponic' store in your area, such as "Yield of Dreams" or "Homegrown Hydroponics" - they'll have it on the shelf - sometimes called "Einstein's Neem Oil". It works on the Rose Midge infestation I had as well." FROM: Http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/cangard/msg062253481951.html ------------------------------ "I caught sight of it really early around mid-May on one particular climber (2 year old William Baffin). The advice I was given was to clip it back (boo hoo had to loose all those newly formed buds), dispose of those buds in the trash and foliar the plant and surrounding earth with diluted neem oil, dish soap and water. It did the trick - and although none of my other roses were affected I gave them the neem foliar spray just to play it safe." FROM: Http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/cangard/msg0607231619365.html ----------------------------------------------- There are other statements on the web that Neem works. "rochester, neem oil applications have been proven to be helpful against rose midges. Read and follow the directions carefully; you'll be able to find neem products in any garden center." FROM: http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/organic/msg05182252650.html --------------------------------------- "Azadirachtin neem extract, sold as Azatin or Bio-neem, applied to the soil around the roses, stops the midges from being able to feed. They have a very short live span, so this will not kill immediately, but will stop future generations (a generation lasts less than 2 weeks). Also, immediately remove any damaged or suspicious growth you see on your roses and throw the prunings and any fallen leaves away. If you put a plastic cover over the soil under your roses, when the midge larvae drop to the ground they are exposed and unable to pupate. It's not terribly attractive, but a plastic sheet is better than deformed roses. Neem extract, and/or Bayer's Advanced Garden Rose & Flower Insect Killer, or Bayer's Advanced Power Force Multi-insect Killer, have worked best in recent trials since diazinon was removed from the market. They must be applied every 10 days according to directions, for the entire growing season to get rid of the midges. Also, remember to keep any fallen leaves, etc. from your roses removed asap." FROM: http://en.allexperts.com/q/Roses-732/2008/2/rose-midge-infestation.htm -------------------------------- " Prune off and destroy affected buds. Spray with a neem- or spinosad-based insecticide. Rose midge is a fly larva; although it looks like a tiny caterpillar, caterpillar-specific sprays, such as Bt, won't work. " FROM: http://agave.garden.org/~suzanned/matrix/rose-pest/rose-problem-matrix.html -----------------------------------...See MoreTiphia Wasp vs Japanese Beetles
Comments (1)Thanks for the link. I haven't seen any grubs while turning the soil since I went with milky spore. I bet that they would do a great job too....See MoreRosa
19 years agoalfie_md6
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19 years agolrobins
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19 years agoalfie_md6
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19 years agochpfeiffer
16 years ago
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