Spring frost damage :(
12 years ago
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- 12 years ago
- 12 years ago
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late spring frost damage
Comments (1)Thanks Denise for this interesting article. We had the same cold in SE Michigan, temps went down into the upper teens (about 18F for me I think was the lowest). But the unusual thing was not only that the temperature went that low, but the night lows stayed at that level or in the low 20s for a week, and it never got above freezing most of that week. Much more like January than April temps. I have heard it said that it was the worst prolonged April cold ever recorded in the eastern US. In my garden, a few perennials got burned, and the main hellebore display which was in full regalia was basically lost for the year -- though all the plants recovered just fine and are now in full leaf. I had one corylopsis in full bloom that got fried, and will have some dead growth. But mainly we did not get hurt because things were not that far along. No woody plants in leaf up here. It is the first time in my gardening life that I was ever HAPPY to have lived in a colder zone. I went down to the Cincinnati area just after this spell, and the damage was amazing. Many woody plants had fully leafed out, though I am sure not as many as farther south like TN, as Tony indicates in his article. But there were many, many deciduous trees and shrubs in the Cincinnati area that had their new foliage hanging like limp brown rags. I had never seen anything like it. VERY sad. No doubt some of those plants will be killed outright. And yes, I know TN is a big woody plant nursery area, and I can imagine that people could have had their whole livlihood destroyed by plants in full leaf hit by a very hard prolonged freeze. Global warming? Erratic weather swings always seem to be attributed to it....See MoreLarch leafing out
Comments (8)"do bears attack your plants??" Ken, you crack me up!!! Too funny. :-) That's what's dangerous about these cold-climate larches. They begin to grow at the first sign of warm temperatures. However, warm temperatures don't arrive in the tundra until spring is actually there. Winter may yet return where you are and cause problems... I had a Larix gmelinii that began to leaf out in February; we had a frost; and the plant died.... Might want to protect it if there are any more cold nights on the way... -Sam...See MoreCryptomeria japonica
Comments (47)After getting a cryptomeria to add to a large pot ,'Spirilater Falcata', I found another one to plant in the ground, 'Cristata'-it will be in a semi-protected southern corner, near a wooden privacy fence-I'm going to move a quince that has not done well, pot up for the winter all the elephant ears that are doing extremely well, & move a banana. The 'Cristata' is 6', very narrow, w/ lots of new growth-it's beautiful...I'm going to be working this in w/ my 'tropicalesque' plantings across the walkway-this is my best southern spot where I have bananas (too big, will move), figs (also too vigorous this year, will probably move), windmill palms (being shaded out by other tropicals) & a few oddballs-jujube, sabal texensis, cordyline, hedychium. agave, setcresea,mandevilla.... Are there any of these plants that would not look odd near a cryptomeria? Right now, the existing planting that I will clear out has elephant ears (3), sabal texensis, dwarf Cavendish banana, lantana,& plectranthus, w/ a passiflora covering the fence.......See Moreat the margins of hope for no-spray peaches
Comments (18)"Harrow Station used to be the only breeding program on the continent that looked closely at brown rot susceptabilty on stone fruit. Has that changed?" Not that I'm aware. As you know, breeding programs are pretty much all geared toward commercial production. Also as you've mentioned before, brown rot is generally easily controlled with a few fungicide sprays (especially with some of the newer more targeted fungicides) so I don't see a strong incentive to breed for BR resistance in new programs. I believe I've read of one or two programs which list BR resistance as a criteria of their breeding program, but I suspect they only reject the most susc. varieties. Here, for a very early variety PF1 is almost bullet proof for BR, but it has some quality issues. Earlystar is the best early BR resistant peach which has consistent quality. That said, I've got a couple Harrow Diamonds, but not fruited them yet. I've gone out on a limb and made quite a few copies of the Harrow Diamond last fall, and plan to make a few more this spring. I'd like to have a good non-patented peach for this window. I think I can deal with the "leggy" nature of the tree, as Hman has mentioned....See More- 12 years ago
- 12 years ago
- 12 years ago
- 12 years ago
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