I spent a decent amount of time looking for a hose end sprayer that could attach to something larger than a quart size container. Lafferty Model 51 Sprayer does just that. It comes with an attachment that connects to a gallon jug, but you can easily drop the ten foot line in a five gallon bucket. It does come with several metering tips that allow you to dilute at various ratios, but the standard ratio it uses without a meeting tip is 5:1. You have to call in your order, no online ordering, but the best I've seen. Great quality product. Anyone have suggestions on reducing the odor? Plenty of naysayers and self-righteous shamers on here... I'd rather spend my time looking into how something valuable could work better, than focusing on the challenges. Sure, it's gross in concept, but aren't nearly all natural processes?Composting is appalling to some, but when done right doesn't even have a smell. I work for a company that is in the Fortune 100 best places to work and we have compost bins on every floor.... it's not just for the farm. There were naysayers there too, but they stuck around and are getting used a lot. It's about doing what's better, not saving a nickel. Many times what's better is harder work, which is why even I like the idea of spending a little on a bag of inorganic fertilizer I can drop in a spreader and be done in five to ten minutes, but I know it's not better for soil health.

"tiemco, I see your point on getting any nitrogen off the blades. What is your rational for accelerating so much nitrogen into the soil/root zone? Wont that be detrimental?" No. Sure you are going to get tons of growth, but I'll take that over burn any day. It's about a month early for the spring feeding above the transition zone, so all that nitrogen shouldn't stress the grass too much (not sure where the OP lives), Just be sure you mow often enough to keep it at the level you want. Nitrogen is fairly transient in most soils, so some will leach away as well. Fertilizer burn happens because the fert ingredients are salts, and with only a small amount of water around, like dew, the salts pull water out of your grass, basically dehydrates it. If you give it a good watering you prevent this from happening. "So if I understand tiemco, he is recommending AGAINST the Scott's Plus-2." Yes, I am against Weed and Feed products for a few reasons. They make you apply synthetic fertilizer to wet grass without watering it in. They make you combine applying synth. fertilizer at the same time you want to kill weeds. What if I want to kill weeds in early April? They make you apply weed killer in dry form (liquid form is much better) and to the whole lawn, even if you only have weeds in some areas. It's much better to apply liquid weed killers directly to the weeds. If your whole lawn has weeds throughout, then get the appropriate product (Weed B Gone Max is great for most lawn weeds, CCO should handle the rest) and apply it with a hose end sprayer. If you only have a few weeds in your yard, use a tank sprayer and apply the weed killer directly to those weeds. You will get better results and use much less chemical. Weed and Feed sells so well because most people are gullible and lazy. They want to do the least work possible, and they believe everything that it says on the bag. People see that and are like "All I have to do is one application and I'm done? I'll take it!" The best thing Weed and Feed does is make money for Scotts.

My ES hydrangeas, years two and three in my garden, have grown like crazy this year. There were almost zero buds on the old canes this spring, so most of the plants are formed completely from new canes. They are about 2 feet by 2 feet, which is amazing growth in my opinion. But, none of them have buds. Not one single sign of a bud forming. My peegees are almost ready to pop, so I know it's not because of the rainy spring that the ES are behind. The nursery informed me that if we'd fertilized our lawn (which my husband did this spring, with nitrogen) it can prevent your hydrangeas from blooming! I guess lilacs are also notorious for being sensitive to lawn fertilizers.... so beware! I wish I could get some big mophead blooms after waiting all this time :(

I get frost middling-October, and we're exactly in the right window for KBG. You have a week, easily, and two if you push it. I don't advise pushing it if you don't absolutely have to, but fortunately you can seed very quickly post-Round Up. >>Fertilizer- Is your opinion that I don't need any fertilizer application at the time of seeding? Edit: My reading comprehension slipped a little there. You were just referring to organic matter application. Neither is absolutely required, but I don't object to a one-time application of starter fertilizer with the seed. You may not need it, but it isn't going to do an enormous amount of damage, either. >>As for topdressing, I've got the hint from others that a topdressing isn't completely necessary but surely I need something on top of the seed on the slope, no? While not strictly necessary (it's helpful and it's good insurance against drying out, but...), slopes may require a little something to hold things in place. Compost has good mass and doesn't move easily, so that's always a good choice on a hefty slope. Peat is very light, but for shallow slopes it'll do fine. Known erosion areas benefit from having burlap over the top. You can put the burlap down right on the seed and soil, or atop a compost or peat moss top dressing. In any case, 1/4" of coverage is the absolute maximum (burlap can go atop that as you're going to remove it anyway).