Since I haven't had to deal with midge, I can't tell you what to do, but I strongly suggest you avoid the Bayer products that are labeled 3-in-one, 2-in-one, or all-in-one--unless someone (with knowledge) specifically recommends one of them for this treatment. In most cases, these combo Bayer products are, at best, a waste of ammunition (curing everything your rose doesn't suffer from) and, at worst, actually harmful to Mother Nature and detrimental to a sane and safe and effective garden health program. I'm serious--avoid Bayer combos as a general rule. However, there is a Bayer insecticide (no combo stuff in it--just an insecticide) that might be helpful, but you would have to read the directions to know for sure. I'm sure some more knowledgeable person will come along shortly and help you out. Good luck. Kate

Thanks Prof R...What you've said takes away some of the guilt I've had about his passing. I don't believe that he had a murmur before and he had recently gone through some pretty thorough exams trying to get to the bottom of what was causing his seizures. The only thing we didn't have done was an MRI, because they didn't have the capabilities at my vet, and we would have had to bring him to UT. Our vet and I made the decision that, even if we were to opt for an MRI and it showed a brain tumor, that there really was no reasonable treatment and we would just let him live out his days until it seemed like his quality of life was gone. He was a fighter and made it out of a horrible breeder situation. Part of his neurological disorder effected his balance, and we even had a little wheelchair specially made for him. He was a sweet little guy and we miss him dearly :( I think its wonderful that you work with a veterinary hospital. Ever since I was a little child, everyone told me I should have been a vet, and I greatly regret not going into that field and instead ending up in finance. I volunteer every weekend at a no-kill shelter and we also foster special needs dogs (how we came to acquire Dusty last year). Its not the same, but its my little contribution :) Tammy ps: sorry for hijacking gardenweb to talk about my Dusty!

Daisy, Good question. I've wondered about this too. As you know, the spores will not germinate immediately if the plants dry within 6-8 hours. Yes, it seems that a hard spray of water would spread some spores around, but there aren't many (or any) spores on the new growth where aphids live. If you commonly have mite problems, it is necessary to spray under the lower leaves where there may be spores to spread, but on balance you would be doing more good than harm. I rarely have mite problems (high humidity, no insecticide to encourage them). In such a case, it might make sense to avoid unnecessary spritzing. Rinsing the top surface of leaves downward can wash off blackspot spores.

Spinosad, as well as anything else, should be rotated and not used exclusively. No efficacy afaik against mites, mealybugs and hard scales but works on aphids, leafminers and citrus thrips. Problem is duration of efficacy and resistance buildup due to overuse. Spirotetramat should exhibit some efficacy also against mealybugs and scales together with pyriproxifen, more benign (if such a thing exists) organophosphates and oils. Timely intervention is critical with regards to scale insects. Often removal of a cane and some oil spraying may be enough to get rid of a scale infestation if caught early. Spinetoram should target all that spinosad does but be more efficient and persistent. Spinetoram is not marketed (and licensed) for amateur garden (or horticulture I believe) use in an effort to protect its efficacy against tolerance build up. For mites use oils with the support, if needed, of abamectin or a host of other specialized miticides. Pyrethroids should be efficient against most insect pests (not mealybugs and scales nor against leaf miners) and should be rotated with neonicotinoids and spinosyns. Timely (cool season) application of 'summer' oils is your best friend. Citrus leaf tissue seems to be quite tolerant of highish oil concentrations (as opposed to, for example, roses). I have happened to accidentaly spray 10fold the recommended concentration with no adverse results during the cool season.. As always the more you spray indiscriminently the more problems you'll be having. Work on increasing your tolerance.. Individual problem pests will vary based on location so I can't give any definite advice. Use your local extension resources and try to understand the principles of IPM. Over here the main problem is the med fruit fly which you're fortunate not to have over there. Differences between high quality and lower quality formulations or formulations destined for different applications containing the same drastic ingredient concentration have to do with 1. drastic ingredient purity 2. other chemicals used (adjuvenants, spreader-stickers etc) 3. Formulation (emulsion, granules etc) suitable for different methods of mixing and delivery. Formulation often affects duration of efficacy.