Bought a hoya today, now what?

luvidaho_2010

12 years ago

I have wanted a hoya for quite some time. I found this one at Walmart today, on sale even, so I had to bring it home. The tag says it is a Hoya carnosa variegata. My questions are:

Should it be in fast draining soil like a succulent?

There are numerous vines that are missing leaves at the ends, should I trim those back to the last set of leaves or just leave them alone?

If left alone will it sprout new leaves along the bare areas?

Any advice on care or information about this variety would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you, Tami

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Comments (20)

luvidaho_2010
Original Author
12 years ago
Oops, forgot to ask what type of fertilizer to use and how often. Thanks
lalla62
12 years ago
hi, it is a variegated carnosa.. very beautiful..!!!

i have got one equal to yours!!!

it wants a lightweight soil,very draining.

i use soil for succulent plants ,perlite and vulcanic lapillus.

but now, do not transfer your hoya,she is beautifula and well!!
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Ok....these are soil mites, like it or not. :-) All of the appendages ARE legs, but aren't used exactly like you seem to think all legs on all creatures work. The longest pair are used sort of like antennae in that they check out the pathway in front of the mite. There are many species of soil mites, each behave in different ways. This one resembles the images of the predatory mites I've seen images of....feeding on springtails, fungus gnat larvae, etc. They don't feed on plants. Other soil mites are decomposers, feeding on the smaller bits of organic matter in our potting soils. They don't feed on plants. There are others, but those two groups are the most likely to be found in a houseplant container. There is no need to use a systemic pesticide on these critters. Imidicloprid pesticides can actually cause an increase of the pest (phytophagous) mites. The DE that I mentioned earlier would be a good product to use. Controlling arthropods is what horticultural grade DE is used for and has been for many years. Don't use the type of DE used for filtering. The next time you repot, you might (pun!) treat the mix in advance by pouring several pots of boiling water through the pot, or placing a pile of the moistened mix in a clear garbage bag, close it tightly and let the hot summer sun pasturize it for a few days. I don't like to recommend oven or microwave baking. You are just one of lots of people in these forums who have fretted over what had turned out to be harmless (beneficial) soil mites. No need to worry.
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I wouldn't say the plant was severely root-bound. The root masses of plants in well-aerated soil exhibit a more consistent density throughout the root mass, and roots crawling over the surface of the pot and circling the pot near the top are uncommon except in cases where the plant is severely root bound. You have so many roots at the surface and at the perimeter because the plant has habitually endured extended periods of saturated soil. Since root growth is significantly limited in soggy soils, the roots grew in the only area of the pot where an adequate amount of air could be found - at the top of the soil near the perimeter of the root/soil mass. There is a LOT of soil in the center of the root mass that could support enough root volume to keep the tree healthy until next year ...... unless you need that repotting itch scratched. The brown spots seem to be a combination of oedema and death of distal tissues, both related to and/or exacerbated by soggy soil. You need to make some kind of plan that corrects the cyclic limitations imposed by soil saturation. You can do that by repotting into a more appropriate soil, or you can use any of a variety of techniques that put simple science to work limiting the volume of water your current soil CAN hold. The techniques can be used individually or in combination. Ideally, you would correct the issue by changing to a soil that allows you to water correctly w/o your plant having to pay a penalty for an extended post-watering period of soil saturation, but timing is getting to be a consideration, depending on where you live. Unless a very low (acidic) pH is desired, you should lime the 5:1:1 mix with 2 tsp to 1 tbsp of dolomitic lime. Dolomitic lime contains both Ca and Mg, usually in a ratio that favors the Ca in a ratio somewhere between 2:1 to 5:1. Al
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puglvr1
12 years ago
I would give it some bright light (prefably away from direct sun) although an hour or two of early morning sun should be okay and will help it bloom. I fertilize mine once a week with 1/2 strength of an all purpose fertilizer. There's many out there to choose from, I just happen to use Dyna-Gro Foliage Pro.

Lalla gives some good advise. You have Carnosa 'krimson queen'. Enjoy it and hope it blooms soon for you!
RainforestGuy
12 years ago
Wow, can you check to see if these are multiple plants in a pot? If it is I would advise dividing them up and making two or three 8 inch hanging baskets out of this.
The carnosa group likes lots of root room and while a full basket looks attractive, they can retard growth and reduce flowering in time.
The carnosa group likes to constantly be in the growing stages as they bloom best on new growths and new growths makes a fuller more colorful basket.

I would recommend using a Peter's Variegated Violet special (if you can find it) otherwise a standard Peter's all purpose or orchid special will work well.

Give this good drainage and allow to grow in a well ventilated airy filtered bright light condition. This will be fast growing in no time!
ima_digger
12 years ago

Nice plant you have. No one answered the question of the bare vines. I wouldn't cut them off. Eventually the will fill with leaves. Peduncles (flower buds) grow from these vines. Don't cut them off either after blooming. They will bloom from the same peduncle again. Hope this helps.
luvidaho_2010
Original Author
12 years ago
Thank you all for the help. I did check to see if there were multiple plants in the basket. There are several, that does explain the fullness. We are in late fall here, soon to be winter. If I divide and re-pot it, should I wait until spring?

Ima-thank you for the info on the bare vines. I looked closer at them, it looks like there might be some spots that leaves will develop. I am glad I didn't have time to "clean" it up by trimming them off.
luvidaho_2010
Original Author
12 years ago
Geez, wish I would remember to ask all my questions in one post.
RainforestGuy, how many plants would you suggest I put in each pot? I looked again, counted possibly eight separate plants, it is had to tell with them so tightly packed. Also, do you take the existing soil off the root when re-potting? The soil seems to have little drainage material-perlite/pumice, so I am concerned that it won't drain well. It is quite wet, they must have watered the plants the day I bought it. Sorry for all the questions, I don't want to do something that will harm the plant.
mairzy_dotes
12 years ago
If it were me, I would just wait until spring to divide it up and just enjoy it the way it is for now. Unless of course the soil is too heavy and it stays wet for too long. Hoyas like to dry out between waterings
cpawl
12 years ago
If you decide to wait till spring to re-pot I would take the bottom saucer off, so it can help dry the plant a bit.

Cindy
cpawl
12 years ago
One more thing the fertilizer that RFG is telling you to try is not called Peter's Variegated Violet special.The name has been changed to Jack's Variegated Violet special just in case you go looking for it.
lalla62
12 years ago
sorry, cpawl, but i do not find in the web site this fertilizer...

i don't find variegated violet but only violet...

why??
penfold2
12 years ago
I wouldn't worry if you can't find that violet fertilizer. Though a few people swear by it, I do not recommend it at all. Its 5-50-18 formula has around 30 times more phosphorus than most plants can use, which just unnecessarily increases the mineral concentration in the soil. The goal should be to provide what the plant will use, and nothing more.

Any fertilizer with an N:P:K ratio near 3:1:2 would be a good choice. I really like Dyna-Gro's Foliage Pro 9-3-6, but there are plenty of other good choices as well. Miracle Gro's all purpose plant foods (24-8-16 or 12-4-8 depending on solid or liquid) fit the bill. Even a common 10-10-10 formula will work if that's the best you can find. I would just try to avoid extreme formulas like the 5-50-18 mentioned above.
cpawl
12 years ago
lalla62,Try this link maybe they will be able to help.

Here is a link that might be useful: jacks fertilizer
banannas
12 years ago
I have a 9-18-9 mix called Roberta's Hawaiian Flower Magic. I have been using it on all my passion flowers, orchids and now hoyas and my compacta is now in in bloom.

That's a little different than the Dyna-gro but it seems inline with those parameters, maybe a little higher on the phosphorus.
luvidaho_2010
Original Author
12 years ago
Thank you for all the advice. I will look to see what fertilizers are available here.

I am anxious to see it bloom!
lalla62
12 years ago
thanks to evryone for the advice...

i use 0NE, a fertilizer with 5,5 / 5 / 7,5

how do you consider it??
penfold2
12 years ago
lalla,

If you told us the full name of the fertilizer and manufacturer, or a website where it can be found, we could probably tell you more, but the numbers look fine.
lalla62
12 years ago
penfold, the fertilizer is:

ONE natural esplosion

VALAGRO spa www. valagro. com.
penfold2
12 years ago
Well the website says that it contains some organic ingredients, but otherwise says nothing about what's actually in it. I avoid organic fertilizers in containers, but many Hoya growers have good luck with them. Sorry I can't tell you more.
lalla62
12 years ago
grazie , i am finishing it.

i want to buy one that uses a my friend who has beautiful hoyas.
it is 20-20-20-.

ONE is used here in italy a little for all plants,but i do not know if it is suitable for hoyas.

Bought a hoya today, now what?

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luvidaho_2010
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