myk: from what I've read in numerous places, the pheromone traps/lures don't work in small plantings like mine, 9 trees. has your experience shown differently? I'd be more than happy to initiate controls based on the presence/absence/density of pests collected in traps. Currently, for example, guessing when borer adults are laying eggs is a crap shoot not to mention how many generations ultimately occur and when. Guides are somewhat vague about when flights normally occur. One of the things I appreciate about CAR is it is very easy to tell when there is a threat. Wish the insects were so blatantly obvious.

Steve, I know it seemed to be precipitated by my recent orders, with Naylor Creek being the latest source of my plants. However, it was due to the three original hosta that I bought from Lowes that bring thoughts of HVX to mind. While I still have ONLY three in the ground, I figured it best to test the area near them. No local gardens sell hosta in Mobile, to my knowledge. To test those three should not require a big investment now, but if it spread later on, I'd be in trouble. A little preventive maintenance. Take a look at the other thread I just started, about Hosta 'Eternal Father' and HVX and the Hostapedia. I wasn't LOOKING for HVX but when I saw that picture of the plant, it grabbed me....and there was the virus x.

As a 9-year veteran of a research laboratory (not plant research, but a biological science laboratory nonetheless, and nearly all the techniques are used regardless of the biological kingdom being studied), I'd like to add some tips for the use of these strips. 1. READ THE INSTRUCTIONS. READ ALL OF THE INSTRUCTIONS. READ ALL OF THE OTHER STUFF IN THE INSTRUCTION BOOKLET. 2. READ THE INSTRUCTIONS AGAIN. Be sure you understand exactly what you will be doing and how to do it. 3. Make a list of everything you will need except for the plant samples. If you will need scissors, put them on the list. If you will need a box for the plant samples, put it on the list. If you will need a Sharpie, put it on the list. Don't forget to put the kit components on the list. 4. Take a few moments to think about how you will do the tests. If you will be doing multiple samples, how will you keep track of which is which? Take the time NOW to use the Sharpie and label everything. (e.g. #1. Sum and Substance; #2 Guacamole; #3 Spinach from the refrigerator; #4 no sample). So that you are protected against your samples smearing and becoming illegible, write out a key for everything on paper. Use pencil on the paper, NOT INK, so that if it gets wet, it won't run. It's nearly impossible to tell the difference between "Sum and Substance" and "Striptease" after your neighbor's brat zaps you with rubbing alcohol as you exit the house, causing the sharpie writing to run and blur. 5. Gather up everything on your list. Make sure everything is labeled. Clear an area to do your tests. READ THE INSTRUCTIONS AGAIN. Lay out everything you will need to do the test in an order that makes sense. 6. Collect your samples ACCORDING TO THE INSTRUCTIONS. Cut your samples from the areas showing the most virus mottling. 7. Do the tests EXACTLY ACCORDING TO THE INSTRUCTIONS. Use a kitchen timer or stopwatch. Take notes on anything you think should be in the instructions but isn't--write it down! If anything looks strange, make a note of it. Your test results will be a lot more reliable if you do things this way.

The Hosta Library has some pictures which you can use to compare for HVX Click for link. If it is HVX it cannot spread to other plants except by cutting a leaf, stem, crown or root of both the infected hosta and another hosta. In other words as long as it not cut or if you sterilize tools with Dawn antibacterial dishwashing liquid of 10% bleach there would be no HVX spread. The second picture in your second posting is the only one that looks suspicious to me. Please look at my post and the scientific test I am conducting. Link If you are considering removing the hosta, you might want to consider trying this out first. If you decide to simply 'dig it out' as some will propose, please be aware that any minute bit of live tissue from any part of the hosta will remain infective for over 2 years in the ground. If a new planting has a scrape or cut and comes in contact with any small bit fro an infected hosta it will contract HVX. I will not spread unless the hosta is cut, so if it is HVX it will not spread to other hosta with being dug up or cut. Sap from live tissue is the ONLY way it is transmitted. I am not convinced that any of your photos match those of the examples in the Hosta Library. Keep a close watch on new leaves and see if they show any of these signs. Testing for HVX only shows if the hosta has HVX and there are several other diseases. If you should decide to dig it up there is no downside to trying to kill all the live tissue first with glyphosate (RoundUp) and there is no reason to do anything quickly. Think about your options. Digging these up and not planting there forever doesn't seem to me to be a desirable option. As long as you are aware of this being a problem and you use precautions the hosta can be left forever if it is HVX with no problem. If you do decide to dig it Fall is a time when HVX is far less likely to be transmitted, however if there is any living tissue in the ground it remains infective for at least two years and can spread by sap from living tissue only. Jon