It's pine bark, but it's hard to say by the picture if the size of the bark is appropriate. It looks like it's quite large. If you read the link Jodi left for you upthread, you probably realize that particle size and distribution is very important to how a container soil performs. Here is something I wrote to illustrate the importance of particle size/distribution: Obviously, I think the grower's soil choice when establishing a planting for the long term is the most important decision he/she will make. There is no question that the roots are the heart of the plant, and plant vitality is inextricably linked in a hard lock-up with root vitality. In order to get the best from your plants, you absolutely must have happy roots. If you start with a water-retentive medium, you cannot improve it's aeration or drainage characteristics by adding larger particulates. Sand, perlite, Turface, calcined DE ...... none of them will work. To visualize why sand and perlite can't change drainage/aeration, think of how well a pot full of BBs would drain (perlite), then think of how poorly a pot full of pudding would drain (bagged soil). Even mixing the pudding and perlite/BBs together 1:1 in a third pot yields a mix that retains the drainage characteristics and PWT height of the pudding. It's only after the perlite become the largest fraction of the mix (60-75%) that drainage & PWT height begins to improve. At that point, you're growing in perlite amended with a little potting soil. You cannot add coarse material to fine material and improve drainage or the ht of the PWT. Use the same example as above & replace the pudding with play sand or peat moss - same results. The benefit in adding perlite to heavy soils doesn't come from the fact that they drain better. The fine peat or pudding particles simply 'fill in' around the perlite, so drainage & the ht of the PWT remains the same. All perlite does in heavy soils is occupy space that would otherwise be full of water. Perlite simply reduces the amount of water a soil is capable of holding because it is not internally porous. IOW - all it does is take up space. If you want to profit from a soil that offers superior drainage and aeration, you need to build it into the soil from the start, by ensuring that the soil is primarily comprised of particles much larger than those in peat/compost/coir, which is why the recipes I suggest as starting points all direct readers to START with the foremost fraction of the soil being large particles, to ensure excellent aeration. From there, if you choose, you can add an appropriate volume of finer particles to increase water retention. You do not have that option with a soil that is already extremely water-retentive right out of the bag. I fully understand that many are happy with the results they get when using commercially prepared soils, and I'm not trying to get anyone to change anything. My intent is to make sure that those who are having trouble with issues related to soil, understand why the issues occur, that there are options, and what they are. Many use their current potting soils (like MG or used soils as a smaller fraction of a new media they put together specifically to improve drainage & aeration, so yes - you CAN use some of the soil you have as a fraction of a new soil, but keep in mind that you aren't going to rid yourself of the drainage/aeration and high PWT issues problems unless your soil is weighted heavily toward larger particles than your current soil is currently comprised of. When you add a little extra perlite and/or pine bark to a peat-based soil, you don't change the drainage characteristics, the height of the PWT, or aeration. You DO decrease the total volume of water the soil CAN hold, and that IS a plus, but that's about all you really accomplish. Add a LOT of (appropriate size) bark and perlite = job done. The physics of how water behaves in container soils doesn't change because someone might assure you it does. As surely as the cow is barred from jumping over the moon by the law of gravity, soils are bound by physical laws to exhibit rather specific and predictable characteristics based on their particle size and distribution (enter the pudding analogy into evidence). If you choose not to go with a soil that has a considerable fraction of larger particles, there are ways to help you deal with excess water retention when it occurs. There is a lot of good information about dealing with water retention if you follow the embedded link. When you get to where you're deciding about how you want to proceed with your soil, we can talk more specifically about tailoring a plan that best supports your methodology. Take care. Al

This recipe is a T&T one, and everyone adores it. Well, almost everyone. DH doesn't because he doesn't like caviar. But try it...uses 4 hb eggs. Avocado and Caviar Pie I donÂt know who created this recipe, but I wish I could take credit for it! IÂve been making it ever since my days with Judith at the Chicago Caterers. It takes a few minutes to put together, and it costs a few pennies, but it¹s a real crowd pleaser. Write more textures. Softness opulence what? Chef June Jacobs, C.C.P. Makes one 7-inch pie Ingredients: 1 package unflavored gelatin 1/4 cup cold water Egg Layer: 4 hard cooked eggs, chopped 1/2 cup homemade mayonnaise (see Basics) 1/4 cup chopped parsley 1 large green onion, chopped pinch of salt dash of hot pepper sauce pinch of white pepper Avocado Layer: 1 medium (9 oz) avocado/diced 1 medium (9 oz) avocado/pureed 1 large shallot, chopped 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 2 tablespoons homemade mayonnaise 1/2 teaspoons salt dash of hot pepper sauce freshly ground black pepper Sour Cream & Onion Layer: 1 cup sour cream 1/4 cup chopped onion 4 ounces black, red or golden caviar (I don¹t think I¹d use Beluga for this, but almost anything else goes. Actually, I prefer salmon roe for its unctuousness.) Fresh lemon juice one thin slice lemon Pam a 7-inch springform pan. Soften gelatin in cold water in measuring cup. Liquefy gelatin by setting cup in pan of hot water or in microwave for about 20 seconds on low. Egg layer: Combine all ingredients with 1 TABLESPOONS of gelatin. Taste and adjust seasoning. Neatly spread egg mixture into prepared pan. Smooth top. Avocado layer: Combine all ingredients with 1 TABLESPOONS gelatin. Spread evenly over the egg layer. Sour cream layer: Mix with rest of gelatin. Spread over the avocado layer. Cover pan tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. Just before serving, place caviar in fine sieve and rinse gently under cold water. Sprinkle with lemon juice. Drain. Spread evenly over sour cream. Garnish with a thin slice of lemon. Nancy

Thanks for your ideas, I'm going to play around to see if I can come up with something fairly close to what they serve in the restaurant. For starters, I found this recipe and might try adding something to make it sweet. I'll have my friend sample it to see how it compares, and go from there. This recipe was given out during a Bravo cooking class. SUN DRIED TOMATO AND GARLIC DIPPING OIL 1/2 gallon blended oil (25% virgin olive oil / 75% canola oil) 12 oz tomato paste 1/2 cup dry rosemary 1/2 cup dry thyme 1/2 cup dry basil 8 oz boiling water 2 tbsp garlic powder (McCormickÂs is good) 7 oz sun-dried tomatoes 1/4 cup chopped parsley 7 oz salt & pepper - use only Kosher salt & white pepper (1/2 & 1/2 ) In a sauce pan - heat oil, add dry rosemary, thyme, and basil. Bring to a simmer and let simmer for 3 minutes. Remove from heat and drain oil from herbs and discard herbs. Reconstitute sun dried tomatoes in the boiling water for 5 minutes and drain. Add together all oil, garlic, tomato paste, sun dried tomatoes, salt and pepper, and parsley. With a burr mixer (hand-held stick type mixer) on low, blend very fine for 45 seconds.* Refrigerate to 41 degrees F. Good for 2 weeks. Keep refrigerated. *If using a food processor, add all dry ingredients first and make sure oil is not hot. Yield 1 gallon

Interesting dips!