Flower with thin green stems around the blooms

13 years ago

I didn't take a picture, but thought someone would know right off what I'm talking about. It's either hyssop or bee balm I think, no leaves, long tall stem about 3 feet tall, a bloom at the end of the stem with little green stringy stalks or stamens around a flower that is almost blooming. What do you think that is? I looked at the base for leaves, but see none, none growing up the stalk, what do you think it could be?

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (10)

scarletdaisies
Original Author
13 years ago
A better description is like a chia pet with a purple like almost bloom, not a bloom like a pumpkin or lily, but one like maybe lavender? The green stalks or stamens surrounding the plant are only double thick and the middle is about the size of a quarter or so. It's not lavender I don't think, but I've searched the plant over from beginning to end, no leaf whatsoever. The bloom inside is only a 1/2 inch high dome shape. I don't have a camera right now, but tomorrow I can get a picture.
fatamorgana2121
13 years ago
Hmmm......both hyssop and bee balm have leaves. A picture would probably help! :)

FataMorgana
Related Discussions
thin stems not holding up blooms
Q
Comments (12)
My experience is that a couple more seasons of maturity firms up those spindly canes, so I just give the wavering ones support--sometimes a twiglet that fell off a tree, although I have some nice green metal stakes with a circular "head" that can hold the weak cane also. I've also had the problem with my Braveheart which from the beginning grew big, fat canes that spread out near the top to form large cluster blooms. Those were so heavy that the stout canes couldn't always stay upright, so I would have to prop them up. However, I discovered this year that I need to prune this rose more drastically than I do most of my shrub roses. I cut it back by more than half. It is now forming all that heavy cluster growth, but it is down lower on the cane and seems able to support it much better--as opposed to taller canes that suddenly became top-heavy with all that spreading candelabra kind of growth at the top. Learning the individual likes and dislikes of our different roses is part of the fun of rose gardening. Kate
...See More
Spathiphyllum (Peace Lily) flower stems losing their green color
Q
Comments (6)
Thanks a lot ctnchpr, I'm glad to know I'm not doing too bad :) What you recommend about misting doesn't sound different from the sprinkling I said in my first post I do everyday, am I missing something? Ok, I'll let the leaf rest in peace... Some say to cut them when they are wilting for the others to have more energy, this one looks wilting but doesn't look dead yet to me... So I guess I should wait for it to be "dead"? I'll replace the upper soil layer as you indicate. I presume there's no need to wait for spring or any time to do this. One doubt though is that I read mixing soils could do more harm than benefit... Does this apply to "feeder roots top" soil? And if yes Is there anything one can do so that it doesn't become problematic?
...See More
Advice on how to combat tomato stem thinning and lower leaves dying
Q
Comments (11)
It is a fungus stem rot commonly caused by one of 3 or 4 various soil-borne fungi. Probably pythium in this case but no way to know for sure without culturing it. See article linked below. The original problem/cause was using soil/dirt/sand in the container rather than a soil-less mix. That is never recommended as it is not sterile, already infected, and creates the perfect conditions for the fungi to multiply and infect the plant. It is then further compounded by way over-watering poorly draining soil. The roots become infected and it progresses up the stem to slightly above the soil line and into the circulatory system of the entire plant. Saving the plant is very unlikely once the symptoms develop to this degree. Sorry. Dave http://plantdiseasehandbook.tamu.edu/problems-treatments/problems-affecting-multiple-crops/stem-and-root-rot/
...See More
anyone done approach grafting of thin-stemmed woodies?
Q
Comments (18)
David, You'd be best to put up a small camping tent up against the north side of a structure and place your grafts inside. This will provide the constant humidity necessary for any type of graft to not dry out. I don't think you need parafilm tape if you have humidity for summer grafting. It wouldn't hurt but it's not necessary. Now rhododendrons are not something I've read up on. Grafting is grafting to me though and those tips are what I would do for anything I'm grafting this time of the year, or, especially at the end of July into August. The middle of August is optimum time to summer graft because that's when the roots are most active (at any given time of the year.) Less energy into producing shoots in spring while active rooting is occurring is the opposite of August. Some people graft in November also after plants have fully gone dormant and while roots are active, but, you'd need a pretty warm climate or greenhouse at that time. The reason for less water in media is to decrease bleeding at the union. When plants are watered they want to grow. If you starve a plant of water they will slow down. During healing, when there is an active flow of sap, it will push the union apart, literally. Recently I was on the phone with a friend asking for cuttings of Rhododendron to do later in the year and he told me that now is the optimum time. I replied that Dirr says otherwise and he said, 'Dirr doesn't know it all.' So, I'm going to assume you know more about Rhododendron propagation that I. As for grafting though, I honestly believe it's the wrong time of the year, but I cannot tell you if I'm incorrect. Mid-August for two weeks, until Sept 1st is optimum summer grafting time. I'll say one last thing. This is T-budding time and the window is closing. It's also June Greenwood Grafting. They're both basically the same. A bud is sliced out of a stick of wood for T-budding and inserted under the bark of another. In Greenwood grafting, rigid new growth is where the bud is cut out to be inserted under the bark. I honestly cannot compare these bud grafts with what you're doing; using a stick of wood vs. a bud. I do know however that a full scion is not grafted this time of the year on anything I know of. Dax
...See More
hortster
13 years ago
No pic? Have to go with FataMorgana - need pix! However, look at the skeletonweeds. They fit your description...
hortster
scarletdaisies
Original Author
13 years ago
Here's a few photos of other weeds/herbs you also might be able to help me with, some you said you didn't know the name of, but thought they looked familiar.

1

2

3

4

5

6

This one is of a woodpecker, I just thought I would share some of the wildlife in the yard. I missed the ground hog and a bunny was running in the road in front of my house, missed that one too. Sorry to get off topic!

7

What do you think of these? Picture 2 is the one that looked like a giant chia pet with a bald crown. What about a chive flower? Those crinkly chives I had near there went away, but this is growing near where they were. Picture number is the little fuzzy thing at the bottom of my mullein plant. What is that? An herb?
hortster
13 years ago
#5 looks like one of the goldenrods, #6 a (yellowbellied?) sapsucker on a sugar maple.
hortster
maifleur01
13 years ago
Did you plant any alliums?
scarletdaisies
Original Author
13 years ago
I planted onions and chives. Not sure what alliums, thought that meant onions. I see it's a flower by photos, but no I didn't, could have been inherited by the previous owner, saw another across the yard. It looks like them, but no leaves at the bottom. The leaves on alliums are similar to that of tulips or lilies.

Horser, right on both counts. I can pull it now, it's a weed. Thanks for the help. A sapsucker, I didn't know another bird could make as much noise as a woodpecker, unless one was in a nearby tree and I didn't catch him, only the sapsucker.
fatamorgana2121
13 years ago
1 - Hibiscus?
2 - Can't see it very well but perhaps allium vineale?
3 - The "pine tree" like plant in the center? Perhaps horsetail Equisetum sp
4 - Fleabane Erigeron philadelphicus I believe. The initial basal leaves are different than the mature leaves on the flower stalk.
5 - I would say a Solidago sp. as well
6 - Wildlife can be a side-benefit and joy of gardening!
7 - Hibiscus?

FataMorgana
coing
13 years ago
What about a closeup of the flower in #2?
scarletdaisies
Original Author
13 years ago
I planted Southern Belle hibiscus and hibiscus love, both dwarf and I'm glad to see them finally. I almost weeded them a few times. I'm sure they have been identified, the one with all the bug bites I'll have to look into.

The allium vineale is definitely the plant! Thank you!

Horsetail Equisetum sp fits the description perfectly!

Fatamorgana, thank you so much. The wild garlic had lots of stringy chive looking leaves early on, so I thought since I planted it there, it must the the chives.

I didn't take this picture, but it looks identical to my plant.

Thank you so much! Number 4 is it oregano? It doesn't look like it, just thought I would ask. It's growing only mostly where I planted, so what about hyssop, or beebalm?

Flower with thin green stems around the blooms

Comments (10)

scarletdaisies
Original Author

fatamorgana2121

Related Discussions

hortster

scarletdaisies
Original Author

hortster

maifleur01

scarletdaisies
Original Author

fatamorgana2121

coing

scarletdaisies
Original Author

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

Flower with thin green stems around the blooms

Comments (10)

scarletdaisiesOriginal Author

fatamorgana2121

Related Discussions

hortster

scarletdaisiesOriginal Author

hortster

maifleur01

scarletdaisiesOriginal Author

fatamorgana2121

coing

scarletdaisiesOriginal Author

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

scarletdaisies
Original Author

scarletdaisies
Original Author

scarletdaisies
Original Author

scarletdaisies
Original Author