Advice on how to combat tomato stem thinning and lower leaves dying
Ryan Hugo
8 years ago
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Tomato leaves turning purple and yellow
Comments (14)Hi, got 24-hr turnaround on soil samples from extension office. Row 1 (Speckled Romans): Loamy Sand, Medium High OM, pH 5.7, Very Low N, Medium P and K, Medium Ca, Very High Mg But they're still kind of purple, though starting to blossom. Row 2 (Brandywines): Loamy Sand, Medium High OM, pH 5.6, Very Low N, Medium High P, Medium K and Ca, Very High Mg These don't look too good at all - yellow/brown bottom leaves, not much new growth, no blossoms. Row 3 (Gardener's Delight cherries): Sandy Loam, Medium High OM, pH 5.6, Very Low N, Medium High P, Medium K, Medium High Ca, Very High Mg These are looking pretty good - under same conditions as BWs, and the cherries are blossoming! Row 4 (larger German Johnsons and 4th of July): Sandy Loam, Medium High OM, pH 6.0, Low N, Medium High P, Medium K, Low Ca, Very High Mg Not sure why this row is still Low Ca after liming, esp. since the pH came up from April, but these guys aren't looking great either, not as bad as BWs, getting some blossoms, but some purple blotches and what might be EB, even though I have 1 4th of July and 1 GJ with a couple of fruit. Row 5 (Hybrids - not sure what, maybe some GJ mixed in but smaller plants): Sandy Loam, Medium High OM, pH 5.9, Low N, Medium High P, Low K (?!), High Ca, Very High Mg This row didn't have as many amendments, limed the original soil just the same, mixed in more leaves since I didn't have any UCG left but otherwise the same as other rows. This is the wettest row though, and some very acid (sub)soil piled up next to it washed in so I'm surprised the pH is so high, but since the soil that washed in is Low in K I'm sure what the K reading is all about. These were some leggy plants that I put in horizontally, some soil got washed off some, roots growing on exposed stems, smaller plants to the south end got almost buried by washed-in/down soil so none of these are doing too well, but they were just "throw them in and see what they do" spares. So, extension recommends varying amounts of lime (but I'm not sure when - just in the fall?), and 10-10-10 now (15lb/1000sf) and next spring. With these numbers, and given the current state of the plants, I'm not sure if I should be using 10-10-10 or something different? I did do a light foliar feed with half-strength 18-21-21 yesterday. Recommendations? TIA...See MoreAdvice on transplanting tomato seedlings
Comments (15)Might want to get a couple dozen into the smaller white foam cups. (not crazy about buying those things but the white insulation is nice for seedlings) Especially on your first seed starting season. I plant them deep, half way in the cups and fill soil as they grow. About once a week...then into the solo cups half/or a bit more and fill again as they grow...not the same every year. Just watch and do as i see their need. Not sure where you are starting but don't forget some air movement like a fan running on low for most of the day. Air movement helps strengthen the stems and keeps soil diseases and molds from forming. A bit insane when you get 90+ germination. Hard to let some go. : ) I cull 20-30 % and drop in a bucket by the garden table and they keep growing without any help!...tomatoes are tough to kill. I've got a couple hundred now and will thin maybe...we always find room. One tray is just from last seasons favorites slathered on paper towel for the seeds, dried and stored...I'm getting 95% germination from those....See MoreRubber Tree Dying! Brown spots and shriveling browning leaves
Comments (26)Generally speaking - and I'm no expert here, just have a few houseplants and have been learning a lot from this forum - some plants such as the softer leaves ones will show their displeasure and happiness quite quickly by wilting or perking up quite quickly. But I think some of the thicker leaved firmer plants can look ok for some time even when declining (more water reserves, stronger leaf structure,etc), for example sansevieria (snake plants), so maybe rubber plants are like this too. What I'm trying to say is it may have been going downhill for longer than the two weeks of obvious symptoms. Plus it's possible really high numbers of fungus gnat larvae could have munched on the really fine feeder roots. Although I thought the roots looked good overall. I don't know about the white bugs, you'd need to be sure what they were to know if they damaged it. And the (necessary) repotting was another stress on the plant. Many factors to consider, playing plant detective. It may well be the additive effect of several things. You've had lots of good advice from the experienced people above, on light and soils etc. Personally I would now put it in a bright warm draft-free spot inside, and wait. Don't let the roots dry right out while they're recovering but don't let the soil stay damp either. To achieve this, try using a spray bottle of water on a gentle jet to target where the pruned rootball is, and at the times when you do water more thoroughly leave the pot tilted at 45 degrees (even 30 degrees will help) for 15-20 minutes afterwards and then sit it on towels or paper pushed up against the drain holes for a couple hours. This isn't to remove all the water you just put in, it is to reduce the saturated layer that occurs at the bottom, the "perched water table" (yes, it has a name) Dont fertilise until you see new leaves growing and don't sunburn it by putting it in direct sunshine outside if it's not used to it. Good luck!...See MoreHelp!! Succulent going purple, Panda plant stem thinning
Comments (10)This is long post, so I apologise in advance :) After cutting top parts off, you could leave all lower trunks with roots potted, and they may grow. It likely depends on how healthy plant is. Here are some 'leftover' stems after tops were decapitated, and they are growing new plantlets and/or branches - they are all different plants:Another possibility is that they may grow from the roots, right at the soil level; here are couple of examples - hope you can see them as they are quite tiny:Top parts that were cut off - cuttings, would be best to let callus = heal just for few hours, unpotted. After that, stick them into well draining mix and let grow. These should be kept out of strong sunlight until they start growing, and then slowly - every few days - moved into best light you have. 8cm pot isn't too small, I would put 2 - 4 cuttings in it, depending on size. You may want to consider another approach: try to get existing plants to be healthier. They may be quite weak from being in very low light. Let them grow for a while, but in better light - I would use those great windows you seem to have. After they get much sturdier, you could behead them as suggested. Cuttings that don't have any roots shouldn't be watered until they start growing roots. You'll be able to tell when you very lightly tug the cutting and feel some resistance - that means roots already started growing into potting mix. Or when new growth starts appearing. Leftover stems with roots can be watered regularly. I would improve the mix for potting them. If nothing else, get a bag of coarse perlite and mix it 50:50 with soil. I would not follow advice you were given - ..." only water with a syringe, only a few drops will do"... Succulents need to be watered thoroughly when all the potting mix in the pot is almost completely dry. That could be few days or longer. It all depends on the mix and the temperatures. That is why you need to improve drainage of the mix and use pots with drainage holes. Plastic pots are just fine (I have about 200 succulents in plastic pots), but if you prefer terracotta, use them. If you have water-retaining mix, plastic or terracotta pots will not make too much of difference. Your Kalanchoe tomentosa needs more light too. They will grow woody and longer stems as they get older. Rosettes should be quite tight and leaves will get rich color in good sun:Pls. ask any questions you may have :)...See MoreRyan Hugo
8 years agoUser
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