Question About Lavender

12 years ago

The question is about the way my lavender grows. I have 'Grosso' lavender that I planted three years ago. The first year I planted it, it didn't do much most of the year until about midsummer/early fall when it started growing like crazy. I found that a little odd but I though it was because it was establishing itself. The second year it did the same thing. It just sat there until midsummer and then exploded with growth. It didn't flower either year. And the new growth on it isn't soft, green, and supple, it's hard and woody. Very shrub like. This year it appears like it's going to do the same thing. Everything else in my yard and garden is growing but there isn't any sign of life from the lavender.

I've never grown lavender before so I'm just wondering, is this normal? Or is this how 'Grosso' is supposed to grow? If it isn't should I just dig it out and start over?

Here's some info: I bought it as a potted plant. The soil where it's at has good drainage, it's mulched with pea gravel, and it's in full sun. I treat it the same way as the other drought tolerant plants (penstemons, salvias, catmint, echinacea, etc.) that I grow.

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Comments (9)

lavender_lass
12 years ago
I haven't grown 'Grosso', but I do like 'Hidcote' lavender! It's great, despite our cold winters, blooms half the summer (starts early July) and keeps going until frost. Hidcote is an English lavender, so it doesn't seem to mind the clay soil or the extra water...it's growing in front of the roses. Wonderful for keeping the deer out and brings in lots of bumblebees. Maybe try a different lavender?
theforgottenone1013 (SE MI zone 5b/6a)
Original Author
12 years ago
Thanks for the reply. I'm going to dig out the 'Grosso'. I don't know if it was something I was doing wrong or if the plant I have is just screwy. But whatever the problem is/was, it's coming out. 'Hidcote' has always looked interesting and I was thinking about planting it last year. I probably should have.

Rodney
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The best part of lavender to use for a sachet or potpourri is the flowers, although every part of a lavender plant has scent and I suppose could be used if you want. A lavender flower has two parts. There is the calyx, which is the part attached to the stem, that people may call a "bud," and that later holds the seed. This colors up first and stays on the plant longest. Then there is the corolla, which opens up and attracts bees. I'm giving you a link to a site that has a good picture of this. Click on the "Advice" link and you'll find pages about lavender and also some information on other dried flowers. For the best fragrance, you want to harvest a stem of lavender when corollas have appeared on just one or two flowers, but it's ok if a few have bloomed and even fallen off -- just don't wait until all the corollas have bloomed and the stem has gone on to making seeds. My guess is that in a garage in Visalia a bunch should dry in 3-5 days, certainly no more than a week. You shouldn't have to add oil to your lavender if you're making a sachet, and I don't think time of day makes a big difference as far as harvest goes -- the bulk of the fragrance is in essential oil that's inside glands in the plant. For a sachet, strip the dried flowers from the stems. If the stems are long enough to be worthwhile, you can gather them into a bundle and tie with a nice broad ribbon -- we sell these as "lavender logs." They can be used as fragrant kindling, but I think they're much nicer just kept in a living area and occasionally rolled between your palms -- they'll release fragrance. I just looked at what comes up on Amazon.com when I search for "dried flowers," and I don't recognize anything -- books on the subject come and go. Maybe someone else can recommend a good book that's easily available these days. Here is a link that might be useful: Goodwin Creek Gardens
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You've partly answered your question yourself! Neglect, and plenty of it, is the answer. And room to spread for the plants - even if it's only a couple of small holes in the bottom of a pot. Take a look at where those older plants are. Sunlight, soil, protection from wind, good drainage - I bet it's all there. So that's what your new plants need, too. Now, since we know that lavender LIKES it where you are, what could be the problem? Several suspects: When you buy your plants, do you take the whole thing out of the pot to inspect the root system? Are the plants potbound, are the roots growing round and round the pot instead of straight downwards? This is the death knell for any plant, and nothing you can do will make those roots straighten out so they can feed and drink. So the plants look good above the soil. So what? Unscrupulous nurseries and plant suppliers know exactly how to achieve that - for a quick sale. It's a deceptive little ploy. Another one is to suppress the growth of certain plants over periods when sales aren't so good - which means you're getting a much older plant than the size might indicate. It doesn't do the plants a heap of good, but it can boost sales when better weather arrives. I suggest buying plants well into spring, or even summer. By then, hopefully, any tampered-with plants will have gone to other unsuspecting customers. When keeping plants in pots, take a look at a fully mature plant that isn't in a pot (or is in a huge pot). Visualise trying to squeeze the above-ground bits into the pot you've chosen. As a rough rule of thumb, the bits below-ground will need as much space as the bits above. A potted plant will always be stunted to some degree, but this is a fairly good guide to the size of pot needed. Lavender roots don't grow deep - they like to spread themselves out fairly close to the soil surface - and if they have to squeeze out through small holes to get at what they want, they'll do it, as you've discovered. Keep the pH of the potting mix at 6.5-7.5. Let this measure guide you as to the addition or not of lime. Lavender prefers a poor soil, so keep the fertilisers away from them. Just use fresh potting mix each time you repot to a larger size pot (or if in the ground, a handful of compost every blue moon or so won't hurt, and will help improve the soil condition - friability and drainage). In winter, keep protected from extreme cold and wind, and allow the soil to dry out almost completely. Just a little misting now and then to keep it alive.
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freki
12 years ago
I had no luck with Hidcote here (didn't over-winter), but my Munsteads are seeking world domination. Hidcote is more polite if you can make it work, but Munsteads are definitely tougher. They are both English lavenders, so there isn't much between them, otherwise
fatamorgana2121
12 years ago
Munstead has always worked very well for me in western NY State. Lots of rain, cold and snow here - including numerous inches of snow yesterday!

FataMorgana
Laura6NJ
12 years ago
Did you prune the Grosso back each year? If you don't prune back, Lavender becomes very woody. If you haven't pruned it ever, then I would suggest pruning a few of the woody stems and see if it starts to send any new shoots out. Don't just chop all the old growth off though unless you are willing to take the chance that the plant may not make it. For careful pruning, just a few of the woody stems. My lavender has been growing here in NJ for at least the last 6 weeks or so. If the grosso is too far gone you may have to start over with a new plant. I always try to salvage first though.
lavender_lass
12 years ago
I tried Hidcote, because it was listed as zone 4, while Munstead was zone 5. It is less aggressive, but I also haven't had to prune it, at all. My mom has both and likes both, but I think the Hidcote is a little better behaved :)
lavender_lass
12 years ago
Here's a picture of the lavender in the front of the bed, the year I planted it. They've grown a bit closer together, but I could still fit some alyssum between them :)
{{gwi:47436}}From Lavender's Garden
theforgottenone1013 (SE MI zone 5b/6a)
Original Author
12 years ago
Thanks everyone for the replies and advice.

I went and bought a small 'hidcote' plant yesterday as a replacement and as I was about to dig out the 'grosso' I noticed that it is starting to put out some green growth finally. Which is about one and a half to two months earlier than last year, but still way behind. I think I might leave it be to see what will happen this year. If it doesn't flower this summer, it's coming out in the fall. At least now I've got a backup plant.

LauraNJ- I pruned it last spring in the hopes that maybe I might force it out of dormancy and into growth, but it didn't work. And the new growth it eventually put out was still very woody.

lavender_lass- I would be happy if my plant looked half as good as yours do.

Rodney
Laura6NJ
12 years ago
Rodney- Many times if it isn't pruned each year, and about 1/3 or so is pruned, then it does become really woody. Lavender puts on growth after the wood and the wood develops fairly quickly. I had one I missed pruning last year and it has about a foot of wood. Well, it did until I pruned a good half of the wood way down and left the other half. It sent up tons of new shoots. The wood I left put on new growth at the top so not looking so pretty. I stuck the long branches into the dirt and am letting them grow roots and then I will separate from the mother plant.

Best of luck with your new plant!

Question About Lavender

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Question About Lavender

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lavender_lass

theforgottenone1013 (SE MI zone 5b/6a)Original Author

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theforgottenone1013 (SE MI zone 5b/6a)
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