"and (why) does where I live or type of soil have to do with advising me NOT to do something?" Location (especially in regards to climate) and soil type are two KEY factors in just about any horticultural endeavor. Climate should be considered in determining the best time to move the tree. It may also influence the likelihood of success in moving the tree. Soil type is absolutely critical. It will have a big influence on how large the rootball, or remaining root structure, should be. Root systems develop very differently in fast-draining soil compared to slower-draining soils. The type of soil will also impact the weight of the rootball and how easily the rootball can be moved without damage (if that method is desired). re Ken's comment regarding difficulty versus size Ken was looking at this from a "homeowner" perspective. Not everything that can be done should be done, and not everyone would be capable of moving a tree this size by themselves. If you are determined to do it, it is do-able. BUT, be prepared for a good deal of work. It's not a task for just anyone. "WTF" Ken is not a "noob". He may oversimplify things at times, or come across a little differently than the "average" poster, but discounting his input would often be a mistake only a noob would make. Patients, careful consideration, and civilized discourse are usually valuable resources here on GardenWeb.

I would think that next spring before it starts to come out of dormancy, in your area. Hope you are saving seeds and trying to start more, that is if you want more. Paul

I've transplanted fully fruiting large indeterminate plants several times. Just don't water immediately before you do this transplant. That's to make sure the roots and growing medium (mix) can remain together and not crumble away. Get some help to tend to the stems and foliage while you do the heavy work. Here's what I'd do. Go back to that Home Depot and look around the garden supplies for a ~15 gallon container. They used to sell a blue tub for about $6.00 and it had rope handles. Drill some holes in the sides about 2 to 3 inches above the bottom. Don't drill directly into the bottom. Now, place the tub in its final assigned position. Put about 3 to 4 inches of fresh potting mix into the tub. Now, take a flat piece of wood or metal (the small paint paddles work fine) and make sure the plant's root ball and mix is not stuck to the sides of the 5 gallon bucket. Grab the tomato plant's stem way down close to the top of the growing medium in the 5 gallon bucket and gently lift the plant out of the bucket. Place the plant's root ball into the center of the new tub and stand it up. Now add new potting mix all around, filling the new tub up. Pack (tamp) it in to firm up the whole thing. Now water it in, reinstall any support systems, and you're done. Depending on how much foliage you have to deal with, you may need someone to help support the branches while you remove the plant from the bucket and set it into the tub. I've done a Yellow Pear before. The last plant I did was a Cherokee Purple. Ted

First, make sure your plants are hardened off (see the Vegetable FAQ on Hardening Off Transplants). Also make sure they are well watered before you transplant so they're completely hydrated before the move. This will reduce shock. Literally submerge the pots in a bucket of water, wait until there are no longer air bubbles coming up, and then sit them in another bowl for at least 20 minutes. Your plants will thank you. Transplant in the evening, on a cloudy day, in the shade, or before a rain. Avoid transplanting in full sun or windy days which creates optimum stress on plants. Know your soil. If they're going into the ground, get your soil tested (info from your County Extension Service) so you know exactly what your soil needs. It can be free or is usually in the $6 - $12 range. That's cheap! You won't be guessing at what to add to your soil and buying things you don't need. You can save money by doing this and you won't have to do it again for 3-5 years. Visit Soil, Compost, Mulch Forum so you know to till and amend your soil in the fall and not the day before you're putting your plants in when spring arrives. If you're buying soil, go ahead and spend 7-10 dollars on a big, huge fluffy bag (around 15 pounds) of nutrient rich soil that doesn't feel chunky and skip the fertilizers. Look around at all the vegetation on the planet which grow just fine without humans adding fertilizer. Stick to homemade compost and you'll be doing yourself a favor in the long run. Fertilizers are a quick fix, but not good for your soil (or your pocket book) over time. If you feel you must use fertilizer, go easy! Use half the recommended rate. You can always add more later. Consider that humans can take one tiny pill from a doctor which can make us feel better... a little goes a long way. Children can get sick eating too many vitamins... more is not better. If you have healthy soil, you don't need fertilizer. But if you still feel the need, then consider a treat of compost tea, fish emulsion, seaweed emulsion, etc a few days after they've adjusted to their new home. And again, not too much! When transplanting, be gentle with the root system. Try to maintain the integrity of the soil structure to prevent shock, better safe than sorry (you experienced gardeners know the tolerance - this is for newbies). If you've got a four pack, don't take them all out and leave the roots sitting out in the sun or wind. Transplant one at a time. If you're planting into pots, keep the pots in the shade for a couple of days so your plants can adjust to their new environment. Water immediately after transplanting. This will help the roots settle into their new home. Have fun! Sometimes more problems come from humans trying too hard then letting the plant do what nature intended