It might .. for a time, but winter sun is not kind to house plants that prefer lots of summer sun. The reason why the leaves are pale is due to the loss of light; the sun is not supportive of photosynthesis. Soon the winter solstace will be upon us....the shortest day of the year and even when you place the plant directly in a window it is often not sufficient to support new growth. You should expect it to wither. But, not all is lost....geranium can be brought back year after year. If your basement has a place that is cooler than the rest of the room/s...then it can be placed there and allowed to completely dry out. When I say completely...I mean exactly that. Through the winter months, no water, no light and no heat above 45�--preferably lower--the plant can be allowed to sit and sleep the winter away. Then, in February, the sun begins to move north...and it is then the time it can start to support our summer plants. At this time it is brought out, cut back to about 4" - 6", old flowers and leaves removed, given a new pot with fresh potting soil--put something between the soil and the drainage holes--placed in your sunniest window, watered to drainage, and turned every 2 - 3 days...to give all parts equal sun....it will come back better than it was last summer. If given a southern or western window, within two weeks, new leaf buds will be observed and within 6 weeks a whole new batch of leaves will fill the plant. Geranium can be treated like any other houseplant through winter if you prefer. Give it water only when it needs it. Since it is not growing, it needs a lot less and the winter sun is much lower and the reason why it can be put closer to the window --but draw back as the season progresses. Oh...one thing, don't feed it in winter. Its not growing so it doesn't need to be fed. Just make sure it dries out between waterings.

I live in an apartment too and grew mint last year from cuttings a friend gave me. Granted I'm in the New England region of the USA so don't have the heat issues you might have in Korea. But for smaller plants with young or "weak" root systems I have found that a window blind made of .. well to be honest I'm not real sure what it's made of.. it looks like a 1/2" bamboo rod at the top and really tiny bamboo or reed stalks woven together at regular intervals and maintained close but not touching from top to bottom diffuses the sunlight from the window. I have seen similar types in home decor stores and places like Home Depot and Lowe's (US retailers, could probably order from them online, I've never looked). In the summer I tried to keep the window open as much as possible but kept the blind half lowered on really warm days. I used 6-8" across pots to start with and when the plants started "exploring" I put them the entire contents of the pot in a window box and filled the remaining space with potting soil. The type of mint I had put out a runner from the root or base of the plant that runs along the surface of the soil. It has leaves and is green but will put roots out to multiply from. This is how that particular species of mint spreads so quickly. The runners can grow 1-3" inches or more a day under the right conditions. The advice on keeping the soil moist but not sopping wet is excellent. The advice on using potting soil instead of garden soil is also excellent. It is premixed to be "fluffy" for air circulation and drainage as well as is usually fortified with some basic minerals for healthy plant growth. After 6 months in this premixed potting soil you may want to consider using plant food to replace the minerals. Try using 1/4 - 1/2 what the recipe calls for to start because too much can hurt the plants and you can always add more if it's too little. I don't know if this is technically "right" but if you have florescent lights in your apartment (or can put one in if the window just isn't working for you), keep the plants within 3 feet under the light. Too far away and it won't be as affective, too close and it will burn them. I've grown plants at work before using this method by putting the pots on top of filing cabinets under florescent lights. I agree with taking some small cuttings off the top if you can and putting them in water to root just in case your plants don't make it. Like they said, once the roots are established, mint is a very hardy plant that WANTS to grow and will take over an area when outdoors. Send me an e-mail and keep me up to date on your progress. I don't have plants I could send you right now but later in the season I expect to have some Spearmint, Chocolate Mint, and Grapefruit Mint. I'd be happy to set some aside specifically for you and get the roots good and strong to send you if you'll foot the postage. Not sure what the postage would be from the USA to Korea, or even Korea's rules on shipping plants into the country, but if it's that hard for you to get it might be worth considering if this lot doesn't make it. Good Luck, Tricia

Sorry, I didn't pay attention to where you live. I don't believe it is available in Australia. oops You will be much happier having a EC and Ph meter. Alot less unknowns in the equation. Your macro percentages actually sound really good for a healthy tomatoe production. You mentioned that it is a three part. Would it be a micro, grow, and bloom for each solution. If so remember to always add the micro first to your stock solution. No chance of percipitation. When you get your pH meter try maintaining a lower pH. (5.8) Over the years we have been doing much better at these slightly lower levels. For one, Phosphorous is much more available at the lower levels. Is your new fan for an exhaust or intake application? It sounds like you have plenty of O2 in your system, and changing your solution is a great idea. There is also products designed flushing your system. They rebalance the osmotic potentional in your root zone. Kind of a band aid for your root system. They can also be used at the very end of a cycle to flush the plants of any excess nutrients built up in the plant. Just something to think about. Let me know how it goes after you change your solution.

From experience, mine becomes duller in color if I haven't fertilized in a while. As a rule, it's not a bad idea to always use a little bit of fertilizer in the water every time you water your container plants, whether they are inside or outside. I'd suggest something with a complete coverage of all the essential micronutrients a plant needs. People on this forum will tell you to try Dyna-Gro Foliage Pro (and I myself use it) but the truth is that many products will do the trick. Complete hydroponics fertilizers are great for this. If you don't think you can remember or have the time to fertilize regularly, Dynamite brand also makes (or really, repackages and retails) some great slow release fertilizers that you can try. I'd warn away from the organic products they offer, as those are better suited to outdoor growing environments that can naturally chelate the metals and convert nitrogen to bioavailable nitrates. I hope this helps. I don't check back much so I tried to be pretty thorough.