Hellebores in zone 9?
Jason_D_B
11 years ago
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gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
11 years agoJason_D_B
11 years agoRelated Discussions
Hellebore - Do you grow them in your zone5/6 garden?
Comments (16)I recently posted this picture in the Shade combo thread. I think the foliage of these hellebores looks good even without bloom. The foliage also holds well from spring to late fall - this area still looks just as fresh as the picture right now in late October. The Corsican Hellebore is iffy in my zone but does well in this sheltered location against the house wall. The leaves in the upper left are from a burning bush. Upper right and bottom right, fine deep green foliage is H. foetidus (Stinking Hellebore), it has upright limey yellow green colored blooms, like a stalk sticking straight up. Middle is H. argutifolia (Corsican Hellebore). It has serrated shiny green foliage with a somewhat yellow caste to it compared to the others and small lime green flowers above the foliage that show well. It grows much larger and taller than the other two. H. orientalis (Lenten Rose) has dark matte green foliage and flowers like the others in very early spring here after the foliage has taken a pretty bad beating from our winter. As a result the flowers are more prominent that you might think. I also cut out some of the bad looking foliage to show off the flowers. The foliage promptly grows back and looks good until snowed over. Closeup of angustifolius Closeup of flower on unnamed Lenten Rose in early spring...See MoreCan Hellebores survive in zone 10?
Comments (2)If you are referring to the Lenten Rose (Helleborus x hybridus) or Christmas Rose (H. niger), they probably would not perform well as perennials in your Zone. I haven't had long term success with them in Zone 8/9. There are 3 species that would grow well in Zone 10, but do not have the colorful flowers of the Lenten Rose. H. argutifolius (some cultivars are: 'Silver Lace', 'Pacific Frost' & 'Janet Starnes') H. lividus H. x sternii (hybrid between the above 2 species) H. lividus is native to the Mediterranean island of Majorca and H.argutifolius is from the islands of Corsica & Sardinia. Average winter temperatures there are in the range of 3-4°C (37-40°F) and summer averages are 28-38°C (82-100°F, depending upon elevation)....See MoreSuccess with hellebores in MN zone 4
Comments (6)All: Hellebores are wonderful plants! Mine are always blooming under the mulch when I take it off in March, and the blooms stay on until at least July for me. Last summer, several of my white xhybridus started reblooming in mid-July, which was an unexpected bonus. Like Ted, I've found xhybridus Royal Heritage a bit underwhelming. The colors I have seem awfully muddy --- most are sort of liverish red. The foliage is always terrific, though. In contrast to the Royal Heritage, I love my Ivory Prince hellebores (Helleborus x nigersmithii 'Walhelivor'). They are listed as hardy to zone 5 or 6 although they've come through the last four winters for me, including last years' January drop from 40 to -15 with no snow cover; I use an oak leaf mulch about 4-5" deep but no other special treatment. Laura...See MoreGrafting a mature caprifig (zone 9b/sunset zone 18)
Comments (0)Hi folks, A friend's household (in SoCal zone 9b/sunset zone 18) has a 3 year old volunteer fig tree. It's about 10 feet tall, with a very nice upright structure they'd like to preserve, and has just produced its first ripe figs. As you might expect from a volunteer, the figs are terrible. They are quite large, resembling brown turkey figs in appearance and flavor (not good ones - the watery, flavorless ones you find in the grocery at times). They are sweet (as sweet as the grocery store brown turkey figs, anyway), but contain large branching structures full of nasty-tasting bitter pollen. I regret that I didn't take a photo, but they are very distinct from the female parts of the synconium. We're discussing the possibility of grafting this tree (not now - next year), and they say they would prefer to retain the upright shape and single trunk. I know people seem to prefer to propagate figs by rooting cuttings, but it would seem a shame to waste a 3 year old root system. I'm pretty new to grafting and have never grafted a mature tree before (so please forgive me if I get some terminology wrong). Do we have options that would allow us to preserve the tree's overall shape? Do we really need to chop the trunk off down low, or could we just cut off and graft all the scaffold branches? I know that if we try to go the latter route, we'll have a devil of a time with suckering, but if they prefer being really vigilant about removing suckers over risking loss of the structure they like, would this be an option for them? Would it create problems in terms of graft acceptance? I would appreciate any sage advice, as would my friend's household, who are understandably disappointed after watching the tree for two summers and netting it this year, and would love to be able to make lemonade (...fig-ade?) of this situation....See MoreDianna Hayden
3 years agoAna Sanchez
2 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
2 years agoRenee Sebastian
2 years agoRenee Sebastian
2 years agoRenee Sebastian
2 years agoRenee Sebastian
2 years ago
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