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when to transplant lavender cuttings

17 years ago

I took a bunch of lavender cuttings in November and stuck them all in a home made 20oz soda bottle pot. A few days ago, I noticed there's tender new growth on some of the cuttings. Does this mean it's rooted? Does it mean that the ones without new growth have failed?

Also, the cuttings are packed about 10 to an are of a circle with a 3 inch diameter. If there're roots in the soil, it's probably all tangled together. Can I separate them when I transplant to a bigger pot? How should I do this?

Also, a friend in Texas (I'm in California) has shown an interest in my cuttings, and I would like to mail her some, if possible. What should I do? Should I send them with bare roots?

It's my first time with lavenders, and I really, really appreciate your advice~

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Comments (3)

Daisyduckworth
17 years ago
If the cuttings have new growth, roots are certain to have formed. You can test one cutting by gently trying to pull it out of the soil - if there are roots, there will be some resistance. Don't pull it right out - to do so would be to damage the roots.

You can try transplanting some of the cuttings now, as long as you can keep them warm. As you do it, try not to disturb the neighbouring cuttings which haven't yet shown signs of striking. Don't just yank the cuttings out - use a small fork or spade, and lift them out from underneath, bringing with it as much of the soil as will adhere to the roots. Those baby roots are very tender and can easily get damaged. When transplanting, make sure you bury the rootball no deeper than they were originally.
CA Kate z9
17 years ago
All that Daisy said is correct, only, based on this past winter, I think I'd wait at least another couple of weeks before transplanting. One thing you might want to think about doing is to transplant the rooted babies into individual containers before their root systems get any larger; then you won't have to contend with a massive tangle of roots.
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I'd certainly wait until they are showing new growth. I'm not sure how successful you'll be. Your happy lavender very likely is planted in well-drained soil and has deep roots. Some of the roots are under the walkway. Could you just cut them back to fit the space better? If you do go ahead and move them, be sure their new spot drains very well.
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I am by NO means an expert, but my experience has been that until you actually see roots, you never know whether they have taken or not. I have often had cuttings leaf out when there were still no roots. (I highly recommend using clear hard-plastic drinking cups with holes punched in the bottom - you can easily see the roots when they form). My gut feeling is that I would not repot yet - if its only been 4 weeks, give it another two or three weeks, then maybe carefully knock out of the pot and see if you have roots. (I think if they have calluses but not roots yet, or only tiny beginnings of roots, you can damage them by disturbing them). I wouldn't worry too much about feeding them yet - again, I think there's more risk of burning the baby roots than of starving them. I usually start mine in sterile spaghnum, and I have had them growing in this with no food for fairly long periods of time with no harm done. Anyway, my 2 cents - hopefully roseseek, who is so kind and has so much experience with this, will weigh in with expert advice! Sheila, I know exactly what you mean about how when one really tries to get cuttings to root, its a struggle, but when you just stick them in the ground or in a pot, it works like magic, lol! Best of luck to you! Frances
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Perhaps you could add soil to the water container? You could start at about a third, then a half, and then just fill it, in intervals of 3 days or so. If the container is disposable, cut it open and put it were you wanted it, and if not, cover the opening with your palm and flip it, if moist, the dirt (along with your plant) should slide out. Slowly, holding it's weight with your palm, move it further from the opening, and proceed to planting. I have rooted in water alliums, lettuce, spider plants, coleus, among others. I always leave them there until they have a good 10-15 cm mass of THICK roots, or reach the bottom of the container. If they're long and thick enough, I have no problems with transplant shock/death. When actually planting them, press lightly, or if you deem them too frail, water with a water can or something that drips, which should fix the soil around it more gently. Just make sure they're making contact with the soil. If it dies out, you can always take more cuttings and put them directly in soil, I have had good results rooting lavender in a mix of decomposing leave and wood chip stuffs. If it is too hot, you may want to put the container inside a ziplock bag, to keep the moisture. Hope it helps!
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vera_eastern_wa
17 years ago
I've only done Lavender cuttings 1 per 10oz styrofoam cup and no more than 4 per 4" square pot. I use perlite for the medium. It makes it much easier when it comes time to lift and transplant into regular potting mix ;10oz cup (basically holds 8oz unless filled to the rim). Also like the perlite for lack of pathagens.
I try to transplant into potting mix when roots are no longer than 1"...less shock. I've also transplanted seed sown Munstead to the ground in March in my zone after a period of hardening off. Everyone of them were just fine with frosts (even light snow) thru mid April.

Vera

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